tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-24933810144125290772024-02-19T19:34:15.082+01:00Pork Bier BellyLiving in Nürnberg; discovering Europe one trip, one story, one meal at a time.krishwalahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14268236809577851121noreply@blogger.comBlogger144125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2493381014412529077.post-79336931649105890302014-08-14T13:00:00.000+02:002014-08-17T15:10:32.994+02:00letzterer- Auf Wiedersehen<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: medium;">As I write the final post for this blog, it’s bittersweet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I am excited there is a new adventure waiting for us in a new city but I am also sad to close the German chapter of our lives.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We’ve traveled to places that we won’t ever forget, and most importantly, we’ve made memories and met great people.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
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To finish off, I thought it’d be nice to do a pros and cons of the country we are leaving and the country that will be our new home. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: medium;">I am sad to leave a country in which safety is certain.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the three years we’ve been in Germany, not once have I felt unsafe or concerned of our safety because of neighborhood or surroundings.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The advantage is the country’s strict gun laws that are enforced strictly.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The husband’s coworker was a hunter.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She explained obtaining a gun and shooting license requires a permit and it’s not easy; 2000 Euros in tests which include written with animal specific questions and a proficiency test.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The permit has to be renewed regularly.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In short, guns are banned and that contributes to a safe life in Germany.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Unlike the <a href="http://www.usatoday.com/story/news/nation/2013/02/21/mass-shootings-domestic-violence-nra/1937041/" target="_blank">mess in US</a>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;">Along the lines of safety, <s>we</s> I appreciate people following the rules.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One that’s comical is the pedestrian signal.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When the signal is red <s>people</s> locals wait until it turns green before proceeding.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Although it is funny, I appreciate their rule following culture.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It makes for fewer problems.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Same is the case for driving on the autobahn. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I did not drive on the autobahn but of course the husband did.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Drivers follow strict rules while driving because of the no-speed zones.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Some cars travel at <s>lighting</s> <s>speed</s> fast, unlike US, and following rules timely and correctly is very important because one mistake and it can be costly.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;">When we moved, our eyes (and taste buds) <span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">were opened</span> to <b>real </b>coffee.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Most coffee in Europe is superb.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I don’t know if they use better beans or are better brewers, whatever the case, we will miss drinking it in coffee shops and at home.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When we visited the US last summer for a short trip we were horrified by the drip coffee.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Why oh why?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Bier too! America has a booming microbrewery culture, I hear, but pros are pros and Germans are pros, for bier.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;">Food.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Fresh, organic, local, farm grown aren’t buzz words in Germany.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>That’s for a reason; it’s not a trend, people truly believe in eating good food, grown from a source close to home and cooking for the family.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As of recent, fast food chains like KFC, McDonald’s have entered the European food culture, sadly.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Buying food from a restaurant that heats premade blob is beyond comprehensible for some Germans.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There are grandma’s and mom’s cooking dinners for their family daily and sourcing good (sometimes organic ) products.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I am sad we’re leaving for a GMO ridden society where Monsanto and Big Agriculture lobbyists are our food authority.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Europe has stricter <a href="http://www.euractiv.com/sections/agriculture-food/gmo-cultivation-europe-decade-legal-battles-303799" target="_blank">rules</a> and tougher bans on GMOs for a reason! <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I am not forgiving Germany for the <a href="http://www.globalmeatnews.com/Industry-Markets/German-consumers-irritated-by-horsemeat-scandal" target="_blank">mislabeled horsemeat</a> as beef however they try to keep non-food ingredients out of the food system.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;">Also, I will miss the short (TSA) security lines at airports.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Having traveled to many countries, checkpoints were always easy in Europe.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Easy is relative but the rules are simple.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Belts have to be removed, laptops and other electronic devices, keys and toiletries placed in a bin.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sometimes boots have to be removed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Once we walked through the scanner it was done.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In America, it’s a nightmare.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When we were in line to board a plane to US I overheard Americans exclaim security checks are much easier in Europe than in US!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And then I rolled my eyes in judgment because Americans love starting conversations with strangers in line or anywhere.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I understand friendliness but is it necessary to talk your child’s first trip to Europe 20 years ago?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>No, I don’t think so.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> I am not excited about conversations with strangers. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;">To say I’ll miss sorting trash is silly but I admire a country that has a precise <a href="http://porkbierbelly.blogspot.com/2014/04/trash-sorted-please.html" target="_blank">system</a> for their trash.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In this world with a lot of waste and not a planned way to collect and sort, this is refreshing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;">This statement (from an American usually or my mom) is familiar.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Europe is expensive because they charge for napkins and ketchup packets.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It’s become a pet peeve and makes me question human competence.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Many countries and cultures are a throwaway society in which we take 10 napkins and 4 ketchup packets per person and when we don’t use them all, they end up in the trash, unnecessarily.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Putting a price on such items means that society or population understands these things are not (made) free and come at a cost to us and the planet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(On the other hand, Germans don’t drink tap water so asking for (free) tap water at a restaurant will get you the eye roll.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>That’s unnecessary; water should be free, anywhere, without charge or judgment.)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;">The green space in Germany.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Germans value their parks, hills, mountains, open spaces and maintain them like so or pay a price to keep them clean.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;">There are some things that I will not miss about Germany and am looking forward to in the US. Customer service, lack thereof, is on the top of the list.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We’ve encountered numerous instances where we’ve found ourselves saying “this would never happen in America.” <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><a href="http://porkbierbelly.blogspot.com/2011/10/service.html" target="_blank">For more</a>. </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;">Another instance, I wanted to buy a <a href="http://www.farfetch.com/shopping/women/item10564812.aspx" target="_blank">Bavarian cardigan</a> handmade by someone.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There are plenty of wool shops in the city so obviously people like knitting.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I asked around and was suggested to try the wool shops.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>By one near our apartment, I was told they don’t offer knitting services for private individuals.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I went to another shop and asked the same question.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The woman behind the counter was already busy in a conversation so I said I would wait.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She brushed off my wait comment and was disgruntled by the question.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She asserted she didn’t know anyone and couldn’t recommend a name.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It wasn’t the answer I was shocked by but the tone in her voice.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She was rude and furious that I’d even bother asking.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I know it wasn’t anything personal (or maybe it was?) but it was uncomfortable.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A simple I don’t have a name for you would’ve sufficed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;">When the husband’s family planned to visit us, we started paperwork.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Visitors from India (and other third world country) must have a sponsor letter and a completed form from a resident to visit.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;">He scheduled an appointment at the Einwohneramt (resident's office).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At the front desk, the person at Window 1 asked for his information and the appointment details.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She told him to wait until his name is called.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The woman in one of the offices called his name and asked for the form.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He responded, what form, I don’t have one. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She yelled at him because he didn’t follow the rules in obtaining a form from Window 3 after checking in with Window 1.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He asked how would he have known that? She was speechless and concluded “I don’t have time for this right now. Here’s the form.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She, thankfully, permitted him to complete the form in her office.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>How nice of her.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;">Customer service isn’t common so people are assertively direct.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This isn’t personal because it’s their character but it is hard not to be offended.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;">When we visited US last summer, I experienced reversed culture shock.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My cousin and I went to a local restaurant and servers asked about our food, if we wanted more wine or water, if we wanted bread to be refilled?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My question to her was why is everyone so nice and her response “because we are in America.”</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;">Truth be told, not all customer service instances have been bad.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: medium;">Last year I had waited in line at the post office and on my turn the postal worker said I had to rewrite the address with a new label (due to International mail requirements) and asked me to step aside. Once done I walked over to the counter and proceeded to give her the revised envelope when a woman in line told me to get in the back of the line.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The postal worker said, in my defense, it was fine because I had already waited. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: medium;">Another time on the phone when I called the company that fixes our bathroom problems (i.e. toilet backed up, water heater broken or shower not functioning). Before I started I warned the woman my German is so-so. I explained our shower’s drain was not draining properly. I repeated “slow” “water” “going”. We needed someone as soon as possible because we will have visitors and the shower will be used by all 6 of us. She asked if it was the shower head or the hot or cold taps. I said, neither. We both laughed. Finally she said <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"> </b>the person coming to fix the problem would understand once they saw it. Even though it was the busy season she scheduled me for an appointment within few days. Most of our conversation was her chuckling and asking her colleague what it may be I might be trying to say. That phone call was accomplishing because the women were patient and tried to get me to explain what it was that needed to be fixed. They laughed, often, but the tone wasn’t condescending and instead encouraging in ‘we will get this figured out’. Abfluss is the correct term for the problem. Don’t bother with “Wasser geht nichts”. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;">We have become close to a couple and can’t imagine this experience without them. We met them (older German couple) through their son, Sebastian, in the US. Sebastian <strike>is</strike> was coworkers with friends of ours. We met Sebastian and his wife literally the night before we moved to Germany with the help of our mutual friends. One month after arriving in Germany Sebastian’s parents emailed us to introduce themselves and offer us help in any form. They welcomed us into their home the first time with a wonderful dinner and heartfelt reception. Since then we’ve met them countless times. They have “adopted” us as their own (and we them). Funny enough, we’ve become closer to them than Sebastian. They are the most helpful, kind people we know. They are full of love, for each other, and their close friends and family and we feel nothing short of that when we see them. After 3 years of meetings we both agree “once you become friends with Germans, you’re friends for life.” No matter where we end up, we will always be in contact and remain friends.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;">Then there’s the colleague that took us to her family’s <a href="http://porkbierbelly.blogspot.com/2014/01/farmhouse-in-pessenbach.html" target="_blank">farm</a> home.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There isn’t a shortage of kindness, we just have to become close to the people to experience their loyalty.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;">Let me say this loud and clear.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I will not miss dubbed movies and TV shows.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Many American shows are popular in Germany but sadly they are all dubbed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And it has gotten on my last nerve to see good shows ruined by dubbing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;">The husband will not miss the slow moving processes at work.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He thinks Germans do not make business related decisions without long-winded research.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In a discussion or meetings, his coworkers never feel comfortable making spur of the moment decisions.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For projects, they contemplate<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"> </b>many unlikely scenarios.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He is looking forward to a corporate culture that allows him to think and act quickly.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;">Having moved to Germany 3 years ago it has become home but there were often times we didn't feel like we belong.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Other than the stares, there’s something in the air that I can’t pinpoint.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The obvious one- language.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Without a basic conversational knowledge of the language, it is impossible to survive in the <s>country</s> city.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sure, we can ask everyone if they speak English and proceed from there.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>While some people were nice and patient others were not.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There’s an uneasy feeling of ‘us versus them’.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And since we will never become fluent German speakers, unless we live for long term, it will not feel permanent.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;">For lifestyle and strong belief in family and personal life Germany is ideal but never feeling like we will be accepted as one of them makes it hard to say so.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>O</span>ur decision to live in US is crucial for multiple reasons but mostly so I can pursue a full time career in the food business. I am looking forward to living in a country where we don’t have to think hard about our sentence structure or verb conjugation because we know the language fluently, we think.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: medium;">Both US and Germany have its faults and no place is perfect but a house becomes a home when memories are made.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Even with trials and tribulations, Germany has been good to us and we’re thankful for the opportunity.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: medium;">Germans say auf wiedersehen, on seeing you again, because it’s hoping to cross paths again. And Auf wiedersehen Deutschland. We will miss the amazing European life and hope to be back for a visit or permanently. </span><br />
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krishwalahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14268236809577851121noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2493381014412529077.post-47239445657341364912014-07-29T03:58:00.001+02:002014-08-14T04:42:03.750+02:00Celebrating Deutschland<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span style="font-size: medium;">I was recently <a href="http://porkbierbelly.blogspot.com/2014/07/breweries-or-brauerei.html">asked</a> about watching <a href="http://www.fifa.com/worldcup/matches/round=255959/match=300186501/">THE game</a>. We were fortunate enough to be in the country for all the games. We initially had planned our departure to America sooner and after Germany won against Argentina, we were thankful for our decision. It was once in a lifetime experience to be in Germany celebrating the champions! <br />
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Saying Germans are fanatics for futball and support their respective teams is an understatement. Germans go completely bonkers for the sport and endorse with a passion. <br />
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We watched the game with some friends at their apartment. Post win the husband (of that couple) suggested going in the city to party with others. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizIidh1ozkY1gcgmguPzxtqRJ9cAMHuuZIwPlm8umUbol_xktRTFDDOedeZmDOD-yb1tQzoWei-CYXdavKiqKC77H-SiShU8dFt533dF7tt1Imq2mlhmgGwixLZqGNM8pdbd4RBh_7l01i/s1600/2014-07-14+00.51.39.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizIidh1ozkY1gcgmguPzxtqRJ9cAMHuuZIwPlm8umUbol_xktRTFDDOedeZmDOD-yb1tQzoWei-CYXdavKiqKC77H-SiShU8dFt533dF7tt1Imq2mlhmgGwixLZqGNM8pdbd4RBh_7l01i/s1600/2014-07-14+00.51.39.jpg" height="400" width="298" /></a></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcAQA2eOcZiMy3bB5K4hD1EBRU8X15whhKpyA4MJN8ezMrdoD67AmHsQ6mkPEeds917XmqbbD3FV7BgJX6EakfaoUdcpcp64Q1wAYhWLRr3spSYgBrW3o-aKdM9Wnug6SWExjOu9GR9mHl/s1600/2014-07-14+01.14.21.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcAQA2eOcZiMy3bB5K4hD1EBRU8X15whhKpyA4MJN8ezMrdoD67AmHsQ6mkPEeds917XmqbbD3FV7BgJX6EakfaoUdcpcp64Q1wAYhWLRr3spSYgBrW3o-aKdM9Wnug6SWExjOu9GR9mHl/s1600/2014-07-14+01.14.21.jpg" height="320" width="280" /></a></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWC3265twkKURhY_wyl-J0rJsPs40LCDIamqgL__H4QFWSMeMu189CXHzcrVOGZKUC0x7SHZMzMjfLmKWMtZ1gFxAgS_lT_QaXydWZksOE9BN5jedfJm6mPatJeqCGtUAMG5bZeYvzrrDb/s1600/2014-07-14+01.04.08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWC3265twkKURhY_wyl-J0rJsPs40LCDIamqgL__H4QFWSMeMu189CXHzcrVOGZKUC0x7SHZMzMjfLmKWMtZ1gFxAgS_lT_QaXydWZksOE9BN5jedfJm6mPatJeqCGtUAMG5bZeYvzrrDb/s1600/2014-07-14+01.04.08.jpg" height="297" width="400" /></a></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dyGnK-FMGfxWEyHxV-K6US7b2NdUUbOIgCYZDdXd8S8bUQlffDqPXbtoRK-SI7aJG7gwZoQ8fIidiZ41_Gt' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br />
</span> <span style="font-size: medium;">This is unlike anything we have ever seen. We’ve seen excitement, toasting beers and champagne post-game in America but thousands of people on the street is unreal. Of course India celebrates immensely for weddings and wins in which streets are blocked for a barricade and fireworks, but this was intoxicating. We were overjoyed to witness the festivities. If we weren’t futball fans before the games, the contagious energy transformed us. <br />
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Aside from the partying, I’ve wondered why Germans honk on a random weekday? It’s not the obnoxious NYC taxi cab honking, it is deliberate. Living in the city (and close to the city building), we hear the honking. Eventually I learned it is honoring newly wedded couples. It isn’t as rowdy as the night of German win, but nothing will match that. </span></div>krishwalahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14268236809577851121noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2493381014412529077.post-10535379995212291562014-07-23T22:37:00.001+02:002014-07-29T04:00:12.469+02:00Food Porn<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span style="font-size: medium;">The foods we will miss dearly. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: right;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_uMg55JfZWkjeb8pymloj-DCs44I66smg1LWT1JUrZ_EK53EffGr8YJ1qdawxmjLwHAoh8NZr-kKSYZumHfHc4nmIL36evKhyXpVT_26eD6Q0q2DNtWsJPllOL6b9v29mtueTMdWbUuQJ/s1600/2014-06-14+14.25.21.jpg" imageanchor="0" style="margin-left: 0; margin-right: 0;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_uMg55JfZWkjeb8pymloj-DCs44I66smg1LWT1JUrZ_EK53EffGr8YJ1qdawxmjLwHAoh8NZr-kKSYZumHfHc4nmIL36evKhyXpVT_26eD6Q0q2DNtWsJPllOL6b9v29mtueTMdWbUuQJ/s1600/2014-06-14+14.25.21.jpg" height="400" width="298" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">drei im weckla (mustard optional)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8bEZLeJ8iZMjqNum1Jyeoe2kIZh2pZ673o3O1B-p4YhUjCTMUaDk7vLmlUouASyhG_R_87Wd0efJkz6_8UuFkGoW_5tIFvZraHNH-kK5wc_ReT9b88Ajn0KOFttw5MixpIGs7YB0E6x8a/s1600/2014-06-24+13.31.42.jpg" imageanchor="0" style="margin-left: 0; margin-right: 0;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8bEZLeJ8iZMjqNum1Jyeoe2kIZh2pZ673o3O1B-p4YhUjCTMUaDk7vLmlUouASyhG_R_87Wd0efJkz6_8UuFkGoW_5tIFvZraHNH-kK5wc_ReT9b88Ajn0KOFttw5MixpIGs7YB0E6x8a/s400/2014-06-24+13.31.42.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">breze (toppings: TRY THEM ALL! love obatzda & radishes)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: right;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2lnyvZNskks_HVgVrlIAWglYYtSDZhBnvYCI_hggQRfUuW2fAc_zrirfYQfJiKnImUAud4sKJPlQPY6urjgPyEHBF0PBEQRyeq_TwJDs5qFfbDow9TvOxUzrUdIeBHXHDKzqeIFS7Eyeh/s1600/2014-07-11+13.33.28.jpg" imageanchor="0" style="margin-left: 0; margin-right: 0;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2lnyvZNskks_HVgVrlIAWglYYtSDZhBnvYCI_hggQRfUuW2fAc_zrirfYQfJiKnImUAud4sKJPlQPY6urjgPyEHBF0PBEQRyeq_TwJDs5qFfbDow9TvOxUzrUdIeBHXHDKzqeIFS7Eyeh/s1600/2014-07-11+13.33.28.jpg" height="400" width="298" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Döner </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFeTh-CFyW26D1PalkxkPaZsGMI3DKiYnyGzd4wlbqr8_4Xei0mCecdK1YVopjr4KpEqBTlH5VGqeun6dqSPpDYfu4X8Qq80XGCUTsqDOQVyOzc2-fDLx-x4bp3RZZfgelWf_TVXral3IS/s1600/2014-07-09+13.23.26.jpg" imageanchor="0" style="margin-left: 0; margin-right: 0;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFeTh-CFyW26D1PalkxkPaZsGMI3DKiYnyGzd4wlbqr8_4Xei0mCecdK1YVopjr4KpEqBTlH5VGqeun6dqSPpDYfu4X8Qq80XGCUTsqDOQVyOzc2-fDLx-x4bp3RZZfgelWf_TVXral3IS/s1600/2014-07-09+13.23.26.jpg" height="400" width="298" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">leberkäse mit brotchen (compacted meat combination)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0YLq9s3AWu-9FKDvIP74q71COJSSQ57STHFBTURhFGxJtwhiC-_-uEk18_XRcnIti21a_owg1zfMfp_5JBCgnVKq9Otp7Y_-xNUwNvNXySx1NVydIiFaaxc8s8lwhKU99yH6wr59egqm-/s1600/2014-07-07+12.50.12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0YLq9s3AWu-9FKDvIP74q71COJSSQ57STHFBTURhFGxJtwhiC-_-uEk18_XRcnIti21a_owg1zfMfp_5JBCgnVKq9Otp7Y_-xNUwNvNXySx1NVydIiFaaxc8s8lwhKU99yH6wr59egqm-/s400/2014-07-07+12.50.12.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="st">Nürnbergers with potato salad </span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: medium;">Not pictured, the variety of breads and their distinctive tastes. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Another favorite, wine down <strike>any</strike>Fridays. Europe's charm of outdoor seating with a glass of wine (or bier) will be sorely missed. </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRCKcx6uHsiRNZHv6zAGgsesjOP_lmr6hAKQIb27dSOQcGVngBf27XYOoFAqRzGcImQaEGQhuRmEbYbN2efJ6AGeg1NXXHmurfAwCFgZ_iGRKVbRAUaN5MRDwYbMGt24JpOptjwrvmR5WN/s1600/2014-07-11+14.25.19.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRCKcx6uHsiRNZHv6zAGgsesjOP_lmr6hAKQIb27dSOQcGVngBf27XYOoFAqRzGcImQaEGQhuRmEbYbN2efJ6AGeg1NXXHmurfAwCFgZ_iGRKVbRAUaN5MRDwYbMGt24JpOptjwrvmR5WN/s1600/2014-07-11+14.25.19.jpg" height="239" width="320" /></a></div></div>krishwalahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14268236809577851121noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2493381014412529077.post-62891765099245393352014-07-15T11:30:00.000+02:002014-07-23T22:22:21.409+02:00Breweries or Brauerei<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span style="font-size: medium;">Germany, especially Bavaria, is known for Biergarten culture so as one of the last posts I want to share information on the ones we’ve tried and enjoyed. <br />
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Bier has been around as long as the Germans and it gained further popularity from the monks brewing at the monasteries. Germany = Bier. There is no shortage of ales and lagers. <a href="http://www.germanbeerinstitute.com/history.html">this</a> explains thoroughly the beginning of German bier making and its history. <br />
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I’ve mentioned how great <a href="http://porkbierbelly.blogspot.co.uk/2014/01/farmhouse-in-pessenbach.html">bier</a> is around here and its great <a href="http://porkbierbelly.blogspot.co.uk/2014/06/the-start-of-bavarian-beer-fests.html">appreciation</a>; this is more about the <a href="http://porkbierbelly.blogspot.co.uk/2012/10/say-it-with-me-munchen.html">biergartens</a>. <br />
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The food is typical and varies by the region. Around this area it’s schnitzel, breze (pretzel), dark rye bread with obatzda, sausages, Käsespätzle (homemade egg noodles with cheese and fried onions), and sauerbraten (slow cooked beef). Obatzda is a cheese spread, great on pretzels, dark bread or by itself (if you’re obsessed like me). It is made with cream cheese, camembert <br />
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Breweries, we are familiar with, in the area are Lederer, Schanzenbräu, and Altstadthof. <br />
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The points of note are they all offer tasty bier and enjoyable outdoor atmosphere. They offer wooden tables and benches for seating. At the larger ones there are two seating sections: self service and servers. The self service is for customers to order food at the window and take it to their tables. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP6C4hxSChKhY1dsc0UAeJVGxz8xYEFhjGXcUll7Y2TnbpcWve9dYhinYn8vU6FN2JwYLuwfCPHWe2yoZfmKufvvhOQZZ8-G6ew5PDlzhcKm1WmIBVw2526tZwlPojaGv1fo9r6OnYhmHK/s1600/2014-07-07+21.26.34.jpg" imageanchor="0" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 0em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP6C4hxSChKhY1dsc0UAeJVGxz8xYEFhjGXcUll7Y2TnbpcWve9dYhinYn8vU6FN2JwYLuwfCPHWe2yoZfmKufvvhOQZZ8-G6ew5PDlzhcKm1WmIBVw2526tZwlPojaGv1fo9r6OnYhmHK/s1600/2014-07-07+21.26.34.jpg" height="300" width="238" /></a>Lederer is the largest of the breweries in the area. Amongst others it has unfiltered weizen and pils; both fresher in taste than their bottled counterparts. The food is average but plenty for an evening at the garten. Schanzenbräu brews rot (red), helles (light) and schwarz (black) bier. Our personal favorite is rotbier because its sweet and slightly hoppy and overall a smooth finish. Out of the three in the city, Schanzenbräu has the best food. There is a specials board for the day and everything is delicious. <br />
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Altstadthof is within the castle walls and also makes rotbier along with others. Since we’re fans of the amber rotbier, we only get that here. Food is okay and could be better; it tastes like it’s premade from the morning or previous day. Best bet for food is Nürnberger sausages. There are lengthy tours through the keller (basement) on weekends, call ahead for English tour. The garten is smaller than most but there’s always room for one more on the bench. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik4MFztnCabEzu2Hn8BsfSKQ2Wkv-cNPxqihU6NDygW8FlM9aHo9H49h6DhSN83x-GThskBCSCmlgcfAMAAbRzBftdgI-w0THrLoi7o_bmE7pvi6zSFJ40tMfweHiZAxFbvlAxYCy5o-m8/s1600/2014-06-22+13.13.03.jpg" imageanchor="0" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik4MFztnCabEzu2Hn8BsfSKQ2Wkv-cNPxqihU6NDygW8FlM9aHo9H49h6DhSN83x-GThskBCSCmlgcfAMAAbRzBftdgI-w0THrLoi7o_bmE7pvi6zSFJ40tMfweHiZAxFbvlAxYCy5o-m8/s1600/2014-06-22+13.13.03.jpg" height="239" width="320" /></a> Meister is further away, 50 kilometers from Nürnberg. (In autobahn terms, that’s 45 minutes.) If given the option to go to Meister regularly, we would. The food and bier are both perfect. The brewmaster serves during weekends. The food is all freshly made, tastes homemade and filling. During the weekends they are always busy but especially for fish (Carp) season. Making reservations for lunch or dinner are highly recommended. Also their Schäufele is outstanding therefore when making reservations tell them to save a plate or two of Schäufele (it is only available at lunch). Their garten is the smallest so plan to arrive early for a table outside. There isn’t a lot to see or do around there but the food and bier are worth the outing.<br />
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Biergartens are around many blocks and in parks so we say if it’s crowded on a nice, sunny day, it’s a good sign the locals are enjoying their bier in the garden. </span></div>krishwalahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14268236809577851121noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2493381014412529077.post-84005103742571477992014-07-12T09:15:00.000+02:002014-07-12T09:15:00.276+02:00Spain for a Special Occasion <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span style="font-size: medium;">For a momentous birthday, big 30!, the husband and I booked a trip to Spain for a week. And best yet, the best friend also a traveler at heart and cook/foodie by work agreed to join with her then husband. I had anticipated this trip because visiting mainland Spain was a dream of mine. Ever since I took 7 years of Spanish in high school and college, I’d fantasized living in a Spanish countryside. Although we didn’t go and stay forever, it was one of the best trips we’ve taken in the last 3 years. It is hard to declare any particular trip as the best or most favorite, because like all your children (how do I know this? I don’t because we don’t have kids) each are special in their own right but there’s one that stands out. Our week in Spain was that. Now let me tell you why and how. <br />
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The best friend came few days early to spend time in Germany and then the three of us met her husband in Barcelona to start our week long adventure. With her help we planned a precise itinerary for the trip: Barcelona- Catalan- Rioja- Tarragona.<br />
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Our flight arrived in the evening so we spent the night in Barcelona. We had a small window of daylight therefore went to Bodega Manolo for dinner and lots of wine. It’s a family restaurant and no one speaks English. The following dishes were notable. Grilled cheese with grilled veggies; creamy and fresh. Potatoes with aioli wasn’t anything we had tried before, potatoes were tossed with aioli and topped with herb oil. Thick toast or water cracker topped with brie and Iberico ham, broiled and cooked perfectly, also creamy and delicious. The salad with fish was overpriced and underwhelming. Shrimp with sweet and acidic mayo was fresh but bland. The mayo might have worked better for dipping bread than with shrimp. They offer free bread & olives to all guests. We ordered a house red wine that paired with the meal. The family serves memorable food and provides warm service. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmoMrpWCH8ZkTwSCDbCGkIegMDK_f7KeCPh8hnirdFkIOPNYKHlTLK0WwSFwzLAuFJxNib6CKm3l7D6nA6sqWbcv7ynB4GNS5PeG_JlAuAORZfuNQwk8APJggscQtvDJp8uLHDiURRvfqB/s1600/IMG_2947.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 0em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmoMrpWCH8ZkTwSCDbCGkIegMDK_f7KeCPh8hnirdFkIOPNYKHlTLK0WwSFwzLAuFJxNib6CKm3l7D6nA6sqWbcv7ynB4GNS5PeG_JlAuAORZfuNQwk8APJggscQtvDJp8uLHDiURRvfqB/s1600/IMG_2947.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a> After checking out the next morning we were greeted by a driver in front of our bed & breakfast. The older gentleman was very sweet and led us to the large van he’d brought. He didn’t say anything about the planned day. Clearly there was a surprise that the husband and the best friend had planned and my anticipation peaked. Jorge said he was from the area and is familiar with all the back roads. We drove couple hours to Abadal Vineyard in Bages. Amazed by the beauty in nature and surroundings I couldn’t believe we were starting this trip with a wine tour and tasting. The tour was 90 minutes and includes and thorough explanation of the local grapes and wine making process; the winery is a family operation since 1200s. We tasted various combination of tempranillo, Merlot, Chardonnay, Sauvignon blanc and Picapoll. The last is a local varietal, tastes aromatic and fresh, ideal white for summer nights, with or without food. Another favorite was Merlot Reserve. <br />
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We then drove to Montserrat 20 minutes from the winery for the biggest surprise. We arrived at L'Angle in Sant Fruitos de Bages. <strike>We were</strike> I was informed this would be a multi-course tasting menu. We could choose wine pairings or by the bottle; we opted for couple bottles. The meal was not 3, 9 or 10 courses, it was a 12 courses! Some of the courses included Mojito, a minty/white foam with liquor, Parmesan Gnocchi with broth was liquid parmesan filled gnocchi with broth, Oysters with sour apple pepper and butter which oyster wrapped in apple slices, cubed apple with a hint of mint and sugar all topped with frozen apple. Foie Gras with pear in wine sauce and cocoa and Sichuan pepper: foie gras ice cream with pear in wine gelee and Sichuan pepper chips/crumbs. False egg white with Iberico ham: mashed potato used to make the egg white cradling a fresh yolk and topped with a cheese cracker and ham; this dish to me tasted like breakfast. One of our petits fours was lipstick of berry ice. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsqEgo2emd3gTP9OoAbjhA0Lh_48aQY0F40BJJ2Dm5l_4noZsGbBoBn4GElMsJQTv83ob1ZPMTJgy1D7djzN4UiFHDU87IgdUPJJqEckaZ-FlpK8N1sOEqymke9c1dMq-Zg8Xyj-A0yV6y/s1600/IMG_3020.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsqEgo2emd3gTP9OoAbjhA0Lh_48aQY0F40BJJ2Dm5l_4noZsGbBoBn4GElMsJQTv83ob1ZPMTJgy1D7djzN4UiFHDU87IgdUPJJqEckaZ-FlpK8N1sOEqymke9c1dMq-Zg8Xyj-A0yV6y/s1600/IMG_3020.JPG" height="133" width="200" /></a><br />
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Precision of each course was flawless and words cannot justify the intensity of flavors and the immense knowledge of the chefs creating thought provoking food. I had never tried Molecular gastronomy before this meal and I am a fan. The service is attentive and courteous. The restaurant is spacious with modern design. In my day to day cooking, I wouldn’t cook like this and I wouldn’t serve this food in a (future) food business (though never say never), but I would go back to l’Angle in a heartbeat for the gastronomical treat. After lunch we learned l’Angle is a Michelin star restaurant, fittingly. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxzJTQDyfZ37iNAot_dAd6nCgjGwCe9dZhZbkJA-31TOjp6_xGxotAdr3j7tFAH-NWC9jLkwxCA-DHSotaX7itXaUDD-D5FZIW8jPNfb7JWOpAEBwPghdJqdUr2Hx1-xrReGjfMBM0MKrt/s1600/IMG_3047.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 0em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxzJTQDyfZ37iNAot_dAd6nCgjGwCe9dZhZbkJA-31TOjp6_xGxotAdr3j7tFAH-NWC9jLkwxCA-DHSotaX7itXaUDD-D5FZIW8jPNfb7JWOpAEBwPghdJqdUr2Hx1-xrReGjfMBM0MKrt/s1600/IMG_3047.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a> Jorge then drove us to his farmhome in the Spanish countryside. The home is tucked away in the hills and windy roads it offers basic amenities and is comfortable for 2-3 couples in a group. We napped for the afternoon and I awoke to another surprise; a cooking class with a local restaurant’s chef in the kitchen of the farmhome. It was convenient to stay put for the evening with a home cooked meal. We learned to make Romesco (tomatoes, red peppers and nuts) sauce to eat with Calçots. Calçots are from the onion family, look like a large green onions and are eaten in March in Spain. The chef grilled and fried them. They taste like a cross between onion and leek and are sweet when grilled, ideal accompaniment for Romesco sauce. To eat them, peel the outer (burnt) layers, and dip in the romesco sauce. We all enjoyed grilled Calçots with Romesco sauce better than fried. We also learned to make Trinxat de la Cerdanya, mashed potatoes with cabbage and ham, served with Pork belly. It tasted of grandma’s cooking; comforting and filling. Also two types of tortillas: one traditional and one with eggplant and cheese; both were tasty. There is a technique to making Tortilla and it was nice to learn from the chef; the key is to whip the eggs separately in a bowl, keeping aside while frying the potatoes and onions in a pan with lots of olive oil (important!!), then combining the veggies with the whipped eggs before cooking in a skillet for the final dish. We made Crema Catalunya, a crème brulee type dessert but simpler to make and highly preferred. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-gF9b6utuHZbeuz2rAQMczV9n1_qyXPhAj5k_F3wcPG6IIiD5gYLZSSH_c0eVjwMCoDKBcwCxDihE3KseqEwSaAhUVlFAKgxlGVrmLAaok0ygkNL65le75Byea46Ncoo4t-3paFZ9IDcZ/s1600/IMG_3034.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 0em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-gF9b6utuHZbeuz2rAQMczV9n1_qyXPhAj5k_F3wcPG6IIiD5gYLZSSH_c0eVjwMCoDKBcwCxDihE3KseqEwSaAhUVlFAKgxlGVrmLAaok0ygkNL65le75Byea46Ncoo4t-3paFZ9IDcZ/s1600/IMG_3034.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8b71H_bbP9pMzf7UCBPIwgXczTGgC586Q3SxnkRm3ian1A6B4Y51IgCGXE7ku6F0Nx9h8p721TFDbElE0mjUZm4n-W6WpACQYDW3jGZFusYUFLgRwZdWgLb9zvMHewEMPJtOIrFn8_fF-/s1600/IMG_3043.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 0em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8b71H_bbP9pMzf7UCBPIwgXczTGgC586Q3SxnkRm3ian1A6B4Y51IgCGXE7ku6F0Nx9h8p721TFDbElE0mjUZm4n-W6WpACQYDW3jGZFusYUFLgRwZdWgLb9zvMHewEMPJtOIrFn8_fF-/s1600/IMG_3043.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD7jOb84OPACYb9bXrmphlhwtDRJjTvV93Mby_9-3Vp9YbZu6P_v7j1e0U_FJGmc-PAJH8pMol1GhErjnQiWmLTvzrBmvkcc9JEMjfNnIdCB0oHPMXq0H7XuDSbSFouO7EbN4-McB-GhhB/s1600/IMG_3134.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD7jOb84OPACYb9bXrmphlhwtDRJjTvV93Mby_9-3Vp9YbZu6P_v7j1e0U_FJGmc-PAJH8pMol1GhErjnQiWmLTvzrBmvkcc9JEMjfNnIdCB0oHPMXq0H7XuDSbSFouO7EbN4-McB-GhhB/s1600/IMG_3134.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a> The next morning we had a simple breakfast of juice, cheese and Iberico before brief sightseeing around the small towns. Stone houses dot the landscape of the countryside; prior to 1800s there were vineyards throughout but due to a plague that wiped out the grapes now it’s bare. Rosemary grows wild everywhere in this region. We hurried back to cook another meal with the chef and learned poti-poti, paella and candied almonds. Poti-Poti is a salad made with olives, baccala (salted cod), onions and boiled potatoes. It was unusual and pleasant. Paella is meatier in this region as opposed to the seafood available in Valencia. This particular was made with pork, sausages, and mushrooms, deeply flavored with a tomato/onion sofrito and satisfying. The key to Paella is Bomba rice, no exceptions. <br />
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We proceeded with our journey the next day to Rioja from Barcelona. We rented a car from Centaur at Barcelona Airport to which we say don’t bother! Their shuttle operates every 30 minutes and is annoyingly difficult to find at the airport so we wasted time. Once we got our rented car, we stopped in at Zaragosa for lunch at Casa Emilio. There we each had 3 course menu del dia, which included lentil soup, pork cutlets with potatoes and a flan. The soup was made with Puy (French) lentils, bacon, carrots and garlic for flavorings. The whole garlic cloves melted in the soup when pierced, amazing! Pork and roasted potatoes were okay because the pork was bland and overcooked. Flan was covered in whipped cream which surprised me, why cover a homemade dessert in cream? It was good. The service is friendly and the price for the meal was reasonable. For freshly made food this is a good on-the-go stop. <br />
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La Rioja from Barcelona is a 5- 6 hour journey with many tolls between Barcelona and Rioja, approximately 50 Euros. Even with the tolls to see the region and visit multiple wineries, having a car is necessary. The landscape is covered in newly planted grape trees. The region has hundreds of wineries in the area. All the towns along the wine route are small with tourism as their major industry. We stayed in the town of Abalos at Villa de Abalos. The population is 300 people and is quaint. The villa is spacious with each room gracefully decorated and well connected for wifi; both impossible to find in Europe. Owner is friendly and helpful and recommended dinner at Terete (in the town of Haro). As a group we ordered roasted leg of lamb, tortilla with chorizo and kidney & livers. The kidneys and livers were cooked in a rich red wine sauce with rosemary and remarkable. We also had beans with Chorizo which was slightly under salted; the best friend, however, liked the dish. Tortilla with Chorizo was a little undone yielding a mouthwateringly good dish. Finally the lamb was supposed to be showstopper, and it was underwhelming. Salt shaker was placed at each table to season accordingly, making it difficult to judge how much each person likes. Price of dinner was reasonable however lamb was pricey. If in the area, Terete is acceptable for a meal. <br />
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We visited wineries based on location and proximity to the Villa. We learned many large and small wineries grow their own grapes but also purchase grapes from other wine producers. Tempranillo & granache blend are the most common, full bodied and dry. We found the wine here to be too strong; we thought we’ enjoy Rioja wine and sadly that wasn’t the case. <br />
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In between wine tastings we stopped in at Asador Arina. I can’t find the address or the town on internet so here’s a brief summary. We had menu del dia: artichokes dipped in batter and fried, fried fish or filled red piquillo peppers in tomato sauce. Everything tasted great; this is for the blue collar working man’s lunch, hence not being able to find online. Hopefully it will be searchable online in future. <br />
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With belly full of wine and brief nap we agreed to dine at Villa de Abalos with a multi course menu. My 1st course was grilled Artichokes, 2nd course lamb chops and 3rd course chocolate, molten lava, cake. The lamb was cooked to perfection and everything I had was spectacular. The husband ordered tomato & avocado terrine with caramelized goat cheese, piquillo peppers stuffed with shrimp and hake and the same dessert. He said he was impressed with the food also and friendly service. Dinner reservations are only available for guests of Villa de Abalos (that could change in the future). Wine and bread are served on the house. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDa6x-ayCvSXO2U0WSOlGZbibUU98wSnVMZrMmxL3z2uqTMGCk6-ZhG7RDrGEc8vtJMxuuFL-mYpWrnrEMOkMm7-pyEL3duO0hT4r0dPfYScVAUjJn1_1Zps3MCe5mQy6MQ_BZft_rPF8M/s1600/IMG_3213.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDa6x-ayCvSXO2U0WSOlGZbibUU98wSnVMZrMmxL3z2uqTMGCk6-ZhG7RDrGEc8vtJMxuuFL-mYpWrnrEMOkMm7-pyEL3duO0hT4r0dPfYScVAUjJn1_1Zps3MCe5mQy6MQ_BZft_rPF8M/s1600/IMG_3213.JPG" height="320" width="212" /></a></div>From Rioja we visited Tarragona to visit ruins and spend time at the beach. The town draws tourists for the Roman ruins and Amphitheater. Due to the cool weather we opted to tour the ruins, World UNESCO site, before heading north. We found a restaurant on one of the side streets that looked promising for lunch. We had mussels, cod with romesco sauce, and shrimp risotto for him; everything was adequate but not outstanding. Even with our lackluster lunch, we believe the goal in tourist towns is to find a restaurant on a side street for possibility of great food. <br />
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The aim in Barcelona was to see some sights and eat our way through the city. We wandered the streets of the city few hours after arriving from Tarragona. We found few bars nearby and stopped in for wine and tapas. Around 10pm, the husband and I walked to Bar Celta to consume more food. Celta is known for Octopus, pulpo, and we highly recommend going there for just that. Don’t bother ordering anything else because many tapas are premade and heated before serving. The bar is loud with locals, drinking beer and enjoying greasy food. <br />
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On my actual birthday we went to La Cova Fumada for lunch. There is a menu with all the items and we ordered few different things: artichokes, garbanzo with butifarra, sardines, pan con aglio (bread with garlic), Pulpo, Bomba and sangria. Cova Fumada is known for everything they prepare and Bomba is especially on that list. It’s mashed potatoes and ham mixture dipped in batter and breadcrumbs and fried. Butifarra is sausage made with pork and spices. With the creamy garbanzo beans, it was incredible. Artichokes were grilled and served with butter sauce; they were so good we ordered another plate. Sardines were served whole with garlic & chive sauce. Pulpo was the only thing that was overcooked and not a favorite. Everything we had that day was exquisite. This restaurant has mainted its reputation for the food from locals and tourists, making it very busy (and loud). It is small therefore sharing tables and sitting with strangers is expected. It was crowded during our time and the servers were constantly yelling “pardon” to move around the room. When the server recommends something, get it; that’s how we ended up with artichokes. They don’t take reservations so get there early and put your name on the waitlist. We had a 45 minute wait. They are only open for lunch and close the door at 3pm, no special requests. The food and attentive service are the only reason it’s always busy. <br />
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That night’s dinner was at Bodega Manolo because we knew it’d be good. In addition to some of the same items, we tried new ones. Everything was impressive, again. <br />
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On our final full day we visited the Picasso museum. If art is of an interest, Picasso museum is a must. Then us ladies headed to Chocolate museum for a tasty tour. Hoping to see most of the sights that day we walked to Parc Guell and Gaudi’s creation. Both are unique and an artistic expression of an architect. We walked to La Sagrada Familia and upon seeing the lines we photographed the church from the outside and left. After the visits, we headed to dinner hoping to find a restaurant on my list. One was closed but in one of the street squares we saw smoke and smelled grilling. We stumbled into a neighborhood Calçots festival, by sight and smell. They were serving grilled Calçots, romesco sauce, baguette, sausages, and wine for 12 Euros. The festival had high top bar tables for people to eat while standing; some brought their own lawn chairs. It was fun to enjoy this open festival in the middle of the city. For “dessert” everyone got an orange. <br />
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The best friend and I made time to visit two markets in the city. Boqueria is the famous one with many tourists photographing the food. Although touristy, it is nice to wander and see Spanish products on display. The other market was relaxed and full of locals buying food for the evening. We bought olive oil, garbanzos and chorizo at the second market. For an authentic experience, visit one of the lesser known (to tourists) markets; I hear the prices are lower than at Boqueria. <br />
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This entire trip proved that Spanish people are warm and accommodating; and the culture lends itself to good natured and likeable people. That week we fulfilled our goal to eat well. I am grateful for a husband and best friend that helped plan one of the best birthdays, ever; I couldn’t have planned a better way to enter a new decade. <br />
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</div>krishwalahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14268236809577851121noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2493381014412529077.post-56040876179303283992014-07-10T13:00:00.000+02:002014-07-10T14:05:15.474+02:00Turkish in Nürnberg<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span style="font-size: medium;">I’ve <a href="http://porkbierbelly.blogspot.de/2012/04/ethnic-food.html">mentioned</a> that we really enjoy Turkish food around here and remembered I never shared the restaurant information we visit. <br />
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If in the mood for kebaps, slow cooked meat or Döner, Mevlana is the place to go. It is minutes from the Plärrer bus/ubahn stop. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEginbwvqUyLKgHvIjJLEe4gMWTsIniI_i-ABEvqNiive1y5F9W-8FJhP7awLKBV7YIaW51O3QtSaVbH1ZcIAzb3NRgPVXQ7XD1ieewbECVbiCGQHfH_uScWWpSB_Bpw2lti1DtRlEy18c8A/s1600/2014-07-07+20.00.47.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEginbwvqUyLKgHvIjJLEe4gMWTsIniI_i-ABEvqNiive1y5F9W-8FJhP7awLKBV7YIaW51O3QtSaVbH1ZcIAzb3NRgPVXQ7XD1ieewbECVbiCGQHfH_uScWWpSB_Bpw2lti1DtRlEy18c8A/s1600/2014-07-07+20.00.47.jpg" height="298" width="400" /></a></div>For dinner we normally order a meze platter to share which includes tzatziki, beans in tomato sauce and baba ganoush. Then we share a main platter which is either a braised meat dish or kebaps. The kebaps (ground meat- lamb, beef or combination) are skewered and grilled and served with bulgur, rice and spicy pickle. The braised meat dishes come with a salad. For our last dinner we went crazy and got too many things. All good, of course. We ordered lamb kebap, chicken hot pot and manti. The hot pot is chicken with peppers and tomatoes cooked in a paprika sauce. Manti are dumplings made from dough and topped with yogurt sauce, chili oil and herbs (mint or oregano). Dumplings with yogurt sauce doesn’t sound appetizing but it’s superb. Ayran, homemade yogurt drink (distant cousin of Indian lassi- savory buttermilk drink), is a must. All in all, everything is delicious at Mevlana. On the go, Döner from their pick up window is great. <br />
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Also for döner the husband’s favorite is on Schlehengasse 31, next to Irish Castle Pub. (The restaurant is on the path coming from Plärrer ubahn station, underground, going into Altstadt- old city. The restaurant has changed owners, staff and name and the food has improved drastically. Look for the Irish Pub location on GPS or google maps and it’s next door.) The other that everyone loves is Atlantik döner on Karolinenstraße. They make their own bread and it’s different from most döners. <br />
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Now that I’ve shared all of our favorites, I am hungry.</div></span><br />
krishwalahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14268236809577851121noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2493381014412529077.post-89765082440191336142014-07-07T18:05:00.001+02:002014-07-08T16:06:58.942+02:00Vienna or Wien<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span style="font-size: medium;">Vienna is one city that we thought was euphorically real. It exudes charm and romance from the people and its architecture. Even in the grim winter, the sun shining on buildings and old street cars made it special. It is classical with modern touch. I think Vienna is often overlooked because there are great cities surrounding it including Milan, Zurich and Munich. Other than the Vienna Opera, there aren’t obvious reasons to visit the city but I’ll give you four. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE7emBu6x6bLm-TkVK4zdwd5dmD7XsOcFuK1xBJarpT44s5s2u4Ct17gdhcOweZ_GxMboTyZ0CJdfue0FI1cg103bhE2jUVA-B8msYY6yQT8FE2gDWGoyDUkntlEZ26QM2Gqqkm1thMilY/s1600/IMG_8374.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 0em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE7emBu6x6bLm-TkVK4zdwd5dmD7XsOcFuK1xBJarpT44s5s2u4Ct17gdhcOweZ_GxMboTyZ0CJdfue0FI1cg103bhE2jUVA-B8msYY6yQT8FE2gDWGoyDUkntlEZ26QM2Gqqkm1thMilY/s320/IMG_8374.JPG" height="200" width="133" /></a> The farmer’s market is extensive. Not only is there farmers with produce and fruits but there’s also vinegar vendors selling various brews on tap, cheese vendors, seafood stall for brunch. The seafood was the most unusual we’ve seen to date. A restaurant set up a bar in the vicinity and sold oysters on the half shell. We don’t know if this is daily or during season but if given the opportunity I’d plan a meal of fresh oysters, if we hadn’t eaten already. The best part about this market was the stands and restaurants weave through a long narrow street (cars are forbidden) allowing customers to wander for an extended period of time and stop in for a bite when hunger pangs strike. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiyt_v0KTnevBF-COuRQxBBI2fu83EiYy-4gtwXxHQBGDMuanWevyX-cOZtwi0nr56rjQ9NNLbAbJBAhrNg4xorXndmhcM42c-Phv7BGecXkl2gy2ic3zMUekHlZViYlI4xEq_zrKEG_PY/s1600/IMG_8388.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiyt_v0KTnevBF-COuRQxBBI2fu83EiYy-4gtwXxHQBGDMuanWevyX-cOZtwi0nr56rjQ9NNLbAbJBAhrNg4xorXndmhcM42c-Phv7BGecXkl2gy2ic3zMUekHlZViYlI4xEq_zrKEG_PY/s320/IMG_8388.JPG" /></a> Sacher torte is one food associated with Vienna. It’s a chocolate cake with apricot jam all covered in chocolate ganache. We anticipated this long before arriving in Vienna and had done research on multiple cafes and restaurants serving the best torte. To our dismay each time we tried the torte we were disappointed. It was chocolatey and good; the tortes we tried (each night) had potential but since they were made in advance and sat in the fridge or cool space for extended time the refrigeration took away from the freshness of the torte. We still recommend trying Sacher torte in a café that has a reputation for serving the best ones. <br />
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Speaking of which, coffee houses are influential in the city to attract independent thinkers, artists, creative types to gather in a place that offers variety of coffees, pastries and some reading material including daily newspapers and magazines. We found each one to be lively and full of character(s). Most permit smoking inside, of which some offer separate non smoking rooms. Although the torte was okay, the cappuccinos and lattes were perfect. English is widely spoken in the city; we heard a lot of English conversations amongst the locals in the coffee houses. <br />
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Finally the Technisches museum is a science museum with exhibits, experiments and video guides encompassing all things science and modern technology. The areas that are covered (that I can remember) are space, energy, transport, and locomotive. It spans over 4 floors. For geek and nerds this is easily the place to spend a whole day and we wished we had more than one day. It was by far one of the coolest museums we’ve visited in Europe.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4S7KwL9z-rmHbNN9ljhmaQsT7pNGqi9Fz7AI4BcYAoaC49lcFLh_aYqChidy2vHlte8Si2qoiwwGsMZ9FVLTdLPe7lYmJwsvDpeMnjZ06bN3MmTCOxQST7sb4JPoH9KxrB8gKPhvoyT-D/s1600/IMG_8406.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4S7KwL9z-rmHbNN9ljhmaQsT7pNGqi9Fz7AI4BcYAoaC49lcFLh_aYqChidy2vHlte8Si2qoiwwGsMZ9FVLTdLPe7lYmJwsvDpeMnjZ06bN3MmTCOxQST7sb4JPoH9KxrB8gKPhvoyT-D/s1600/IMG_8406.JPG" height="406" width="640" /></a>Our hotel was in the city and convenient to many sights. With a well planned public transportation infrastructure it is hard to go wrong on a hotel within the city limits. <br />
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The food in Vienna is a combination of Hungarian and German with heavy helpings of pork, dumplings and potatoes. All appropriate for a chilly winter night. </span></div>krishwalahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14268236809577851121noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2493381014412529077.post-80661368838387670092014-07-03T12:39:00.000+02:002014-07-08T16:02:57.747+02:00Northern Italy <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span style="font-size: medium;">Here’s to writing about some trips that hold a special place in our hearts because of the circumstances or timing. This was our first “real” trip after moving to Germany and it was special. God, you’re thinking, what is wrong with her for waiting 2+ years to write this? I am laughing at myself for putting it off for so long! But here it is. We decided to rent a car, first time, and drive to Northern parts of Italy and do a multi-city tour. The goal for the Italian adventure was food!<br />
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We drove directly to Milan and spent couple days there. It is large with various neighborhoods. The Duomo is opulent in all its glory, inside and out. Like the church men and women were dressed to the 9s for a day at the office or out for lunch. The designer brand clothes, shoes and bags attributes to Milan’s love of high fashion. This is causes for many street vendors selling knock off bags and sun glasses. Although I was impressed with their love of fashion it felt too concocted. Milan felt industrial and gritty from congestion, loud music blaring from apartments and graffiti. We were shocked to see so many Indians, Pakistanis, Sri Lankans flocking to and living in Milan. The physical infrastructure for public transportation is dated but efficient. <br />
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We learned of the aperitivo culture in Milan prior to the trip and made plans to try it one evening. The concept is easy, buy a glass of wine, negroni, campari or mixed drink at a bar and in return the restaurant offers food. We stopped in at Napolitano for negroni and left full from delicious pizza. Many bars/restaurants offer this during happy hour to attract customers. The next night we had drinks at a local bar that had a lengthier spread with pasta salad, sardines, antipasti and other goods.<br />
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But we were saving room for heartier food. Trattoria Abele la Temperanza Restaurant also known as Da Abele is in a hard to find part of Milan but once inside is a welcome surprise. It offers three types of Milanese style risotto daily. We opted for two of the three options. The flavor was wholesome with fresh herbs and cheese; the one distinction we noted was Milanese Risotto is creamier, runnier than its dense counterpart. Be sure to arrive after 8 because they don’t permit diners inside until 8pm and after 9pm on a weekend it gets really busy so time it wisely. This risotto was one of the better ones we had in our time here. <br />
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Driving from Milan to the next stop we spotted a gigantic Barilla factory. We laughed that’s where the magic is “made” for all of us that use barilla pasta in a pinch. (Having lived in Nürnberg, I have bought egg pasta from my chicken/egg vendor; because supporting local rules! That and I trust their pasta is produced on a smaller scale than Barilla. Unfortunately I am not sure if I’ll have this luxury much longer.) <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4RYkKiNaDEPvPaU5gpd0ocrX4aeZi3yOWb1sjeg2-SvjhxoMQgyiBJFSTXNg9MsMqUlkEUTeM5q0God-8pCSQGpuVQC1M-4F4hw5X5I0d_aChf86gMJxzp2ORrKP3mgspL7U3emndU7gv/s1600/IMG_6103.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 0em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4RYkKiNaDEPvPaU5gpd0ocrX4aeZi3yOWb1sjeg2-SvjhxoMQgyiBJFSTXNg9MsMqUlkEUTeM5q0God-8pCSQGpuVQC1M-4F4hw5X5I0d_aChf86gMJxzp2ORrKP3mgspL7U3emndU7gv/s1600/IMG_6103.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>We checked into our bed & breakfast at Hotel Locanda del Mulino in Maranello after our stay in Milan. We planned to spend few days here and take day trips to Modena, Bologna & Parma. Mulino is like an agriturismo with relaxing style, spacious interiors and fresh breakfast for the guests. It used to be a farmhouse/flour mill and the design reflects that. The breakfast room is upstairs along with many rooms. There is a large dining room for the restaurant that serves dinner only. It is by far one of our favorite places we’ve stayed in. <br />
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The host recommended Ristorante Da Anna in Maranello for lunch, short drive from Mulino. It felt like walking into an aunt’s home that wants to treat you to all the food they’ve made. They offer a set lunch menu that includes primi, secundi & dessert. Few memorable dishes were the tortellini and gnocco with salume. Tortellini is filled with cheese and served in a broth. The gnocco is fried dough eaten with cured meats and cheese; the cured meats were of variety and tasty. This was the first time we’d tried this thing called gnocco with salume and we were converts. It was terrific and we looked for it on future menus. With a half carafe of local wine and this lunch was hard to beat on taste and price. Service and food were both wonderful at Da Anna. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaefp-TdsZUPi9pC6qwB2HDp__HkU32XWrvLDE1BVxLuIHpza5pDpreBwKxvCKxJooQWgZsSD8tx8ecl7Z8RlyD9RuYKkB6c96EomDb6VXJqYE76gkAO4xq6dmssmEL8_DWLG3pYAanmMu/s1600/IMG_6074.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaefp-TdsZUPi9pC6qwB2HDp__HkU32XWrvLDE1BVxLuIHpza5pDpreBwKxvCKxJooQWgZsSD8tx8ecl7Z8RlyD9RuYKkB6c96EomDb6VXJqYE76gkAO4xq6dmssmEL8_DWLG3pYAanmMu/s1600/IMG_6074.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>That afternoon we toured a Lambrusco winery near Mulino. It was a learning experience because we’d never heard of or tried Lambrusco until then and were surprised. The wine is made from grape of the same name; fruity, light, bubbly red wine that’s easy to drink on cool, sunny days. We hadn’t heard of a red bubbly wine until this tour. It doesn’t have much body and can easily be drunk with a pasta meal; our experience was having it with cheese, cured meats and breads. (I hear Lambrusco is <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2012/08/01/dining/reviews/lambrusco-a-perfect-warm-weather-wine-wants-you-back.html?pagewanted=all&_r=0">making a comeback in US</a>.) <br />
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Dinner on our first evening was at the hotel Locanda del Mulino. We ordered a salume platter, salad, pasta, cacciatore with rabbit and Tiramisu. The meal is cooked with love and rustic due to its country setting. In my notes I’ve written salad with greens with balsamic was amazing so I suggest ordering the salad with dressing. One would be hard pressed to find a restaurant like this in one of the nearby cities. The price is hard to beat so if given the opportunity to go back to Mulino for dinner, I’d do it in a heartbeat. (I just learned it’s a Michelin Star restaurant, deservingly). <br />
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Modena is the smallest of all three towns in the area with a main square and church. It was a brief visit to the town because of two planned things. A Balsamic tour with a local producer. After arriving we were introduced to the owners’ college aged daughter for the tour. The neat part of this tour was it was at someone’s home. The family produces balsamic vinegar and ages it in their home attic. She explains to us in great detail the production and the various aging periods to make it aceto balsamic vinegar. The family produces less than 100,000 bottles which is small by mass production standards. The longer the vinegar ages the more in depth its flavor. Traditional Balsamic vinegar produced in Modena gets the seal of approval from the food police and is assigned DOP (Denominazione di Origine Protetta or protected designation of origin. In another words, only vinegar produced in this region can be called Aceto Balsamic of Modena.) The DOP seal permits the producers to sell in a special bottle, for distinction. She explained the other balsamic vinegars on store shelves are cheap and do not have the distinctive taste profile. We enjoyed one particular vinegar and bought a bottle, at a hefty price because of small production. These are used sparingly in dressings. The woman suggested we try a drop or two with vanilla ice cream. Yum! <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx4UN6OANLqPUdHHhoPRGNs5anppz6AcJC6I-YpqzrZzDOvqZ-cVaA583DiD51o_zur2MQEjKu5KOaKw1jGmmxroSNWOBykkBt6M3XtbrBgmGhjcoU20KCkcbAv8j1LYaS4wojsCGUDqFZ/s1600/IMG_6141.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx4UN6OANLqPUdHHhoPRGNs5anppz6AcJC6I-YpqzrZzDOvqZ-cVaA583DiD51o_zur2MQEjKu5KOaKw1jGmmxroSNWOBykkBt6M3XtbrBgmGhjcoU20KCkcbAv8j1LYaS4wojsCGUDqFZ/s1600/IMG_6141.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>Knowing that Ferrari test drive site was near us in Emilia Romagna, we visited for the husband. I can’t attest for the experience because I did not go with him but he said it was thrilling. A co-driver is assigned to each car and the husband said his co-pilot encouraged him to drive faster, faster, as fast as he could. Sweet. For those that love driving, fast, this is a must. And for the rest of us, it’s a good way to catch the sun in a parking lot. Like the balsamic, this is a pricey car ride. <br />
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In between the tour and test driving we went to Hosteria Giusti for lunch. The meal consisted of pizza, gnocchi with 4 cheese and gnocco with salumi. The gnocco was freshly fried and served with cured meat, decent, and the pizza was superb however the 4 cheese gnocchi was below average because it didn’t taste homemade. Rated highly on my list to try, after a lunch there I’d say the food was fine. If you find yourself in the area, it’s a good place for a meal, otherwise try somewhere else. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir5jIj9O60gZo4BgzMWDLDWnoH-fCha0wjp6Rc5pnnhUhCQrd-EoS92UEAwqpMs_md1OybaaTFEZAYDGHqFft3j9eWPyJzQ_E1ij3y-ZiopkEUqjT7fIMIabRJrgmKeLhIsCFlDVGNzpFh/s1600/IMG_6322.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 0em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir5jIj9O60gZo4BgzMWDLDWnoH-fCha0wjp6Rc5pnnhUhCQrd-EoS92UEAwqpMs_md1OybaaTFEZAYDGHqFft3j9eWPyJzQ_E1ij3y-ZiopkEUqjT7fIMIabRJrgmKeLhIsCFlDVGNzpFh/s1600/IMG_6322.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>I’d scheduled a Parmigiano tour the next morning in the outskirts of Parma. The tour started promptly at 10 with details of cheese making in the region. The tour walks through each stage of Parmigiano making process and finishes with a tasting of 12 & 24 months aged cheeses. There are few local organizations that plan, schedule and offer tours and we highly recommend taking these tours, if time permits. The best part is they are free. (We bought couple cheeses because they were addictive!) The cheese also has DOP distinction. <br />
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The city of Parma has some sights including the Cathedral & Baptistery. If in the area visit these sights but know that the Cathedral is ordinary. Ducal Park with Palace of the same name is nearby for visit. For an enjoyable stroll in the afternoon this is the place to visit. We did not visit the Palace but I imagine with few hours it’s a valuable tour. We stopped in at Trattoria del Tribunale in the city. The lunch menu was straightforward; veal and gnocchi with pesto and eggplant to share. The veal was moist and good-quality and the gnocchi with pesto was excellent. <br />
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Our final stop was Bologna. It is a university town and has a small city feel compared to others we visited. The city hall sits in a large square with many street performers and gelato vendors. Speaking of Gelato we enjoyed a scoop at each instance possible. Bologna’s charm is the university, oldest in Europe and for that there are students everywhere. <br />
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We ate at Osteria Dell’Orsa. We noticed all the servers spoke fluent English and quickly realized the students must visit for meals. We ordered a Panini and Rigatoni with Pomodoro and Ragu. The food was delightful. <br />
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For a food lover’s dream Emilia Romagna region is the place to visit. It is rustic, offers charm of the Italian countryside with small towns, produces and exports some of the best prosciutto, balsamic, and cheese. Looking back on the decision, we think it was a good idea to stay in one place, Locanda del Mulino, and take trips to various towns nearby. We’ve taken trips where we traveled to each city and although fine this is much better. We were doing the right thing, on our first trip, and didn’t even know it. Aaah hindsight! <br />
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We drove to Venice after few days. Venice is a city built on the waterways and canals. It has neighborhoods reachable by water ferries. The water ferries are their public transportation like the trains and buses. The main train (Mestre) station and the airport are on mainland Italy, 30- 40 minutes from the island. There is another station, Santa Lucia, in Venice city center. We drove to Mestre and parked our car for few days, bought tickets and boarded the train to Santa Lucia. Be sure to punch the tickets before boarding. Along with everyone else, our tickets were checked on board. A group of 4 Americans and we didn’t punch our tickets so the checker asked for bribe money. He insisted if we didn’t pay him then we would have to pay 100 euros per person at arrival. Baffled by this all of us accepted and chose to wait until we arrived for the consequences. When we departed the train, no one was checking and all of us walked through the gates without penalty. <br />
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We departed the station with a water ferry towards our hotel, Bed & Breakfast Al Tramonto Dorato, Castello 2143. It arrived at Arsenal Water stop, 100 meters away. The host was expecting us so when we rang the bell, he greeted us with our names. How nice! The interior style is eclectic with unusual pieces in the living room. Our room was decently furnished but the bed was uncomfortable, too hard for our taste. The best part of this bed & breakfast wasn’t the breakfast or the room but its location. Not only does it have view of the water, it is very convenient to the tourist sights and public transportation. Because of the location, we enjoyed a sunset on a bench near the b&b. (The drawback to the view of the water is it’s location. The day we checked out of the B&B, a large cruise ship parked nearby drawing cruise tourists. We were thankful to have left when they arrived.) Speaking of wine, there are many wine shops in Venice that sell on tap; if you have an empty 1.5 liter bottle bring it otherwise the wine shop will provide one, for a small price. The wine we bought for each night was 2 Euros for 1.5 liters. Cheap! Just ask the locals “Como Vino?” and they’ll point or take you to the wine shop that sells wine on tap.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi8aF2eWfn8jPFGP3KngV0zqq9-WgA7gCaakk-mO1gdKyiW9ztohZdO8BBQTSjrWWmYibaE2VrTeTaZEcKqQiryfG3TXpBUsQrr9cwcGOGnpBEvS462YeLmtRk_td5MbRgZzLB62mzEcUV/s1600/IMG_6561.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi8aF2eWfn8jPFGP3KngV0zqq9-WgA7gCaakk-mO1gdKyiW9ztohZdO8BBQTSjrWWmYibaE2VrTeTaZEcKqQiryfG3TXpBUsQrr9cwcGOGnpBEvS462YeLmtRk_td5MbRgZzLB62mzEcUV/s1600/IMG_6561.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></div><br />
We stumbled upon Cà D'Oro alla Vedova accidently in an alley; we were looking for another place and saw the sign on an awning. We ordered wine, meatballs, squid in black ink sauce over polenta, spaghetti with clams, garlic and parsley sauce. The meatballs were made with seafood and unforgettably delicious, the squid was perfectly cooked in the sauce and the spaghetti with clams was satisfying. The polenta could’ve been freshly made but overall everything was so good, no complaints. We ordered 1/2 liter of house wine, chardonnay, also good. Daily they offer 2-3 antipasti, 4 primi, 4-6 secundi and 1 dessert. We were overjoyed after lunch to have found this place, especially since the total bill for all was 32 Euros. <br />
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Our first full day in Venice had a rainy start and unfortunately it was a downpour. Everyone had the same idea as us to visit the Doge Palace. Everyone crowding in lines, trying to stay dry was hellish 45 minutes of waiting. However once inside it was worth the visit. The Correr Museum has vast pieces of art and is worthwhile for art lovers. When we’d finished the museum tours, it was the afternoon and we found ourselves basking in the Venetian sun. San Marco Square is ideal to get a gelato and people watch. There are many people that feed the pigeons too, but I won’t talk about that. Ok, I will. Don’t feed the pigeons people! The Basilica gets many visitors so they’ve created a queue for all tourists and it was irritating to see the church in a line but when in Venice…<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdMmGqCISkXNhwQ1iNQy14uNb4p71pTwrwsIVTnc7-RSYKPVV-mnRULpEeLdwOx7D0Cc2X5QVMXBJu308sbKuMTt4PJYL08OGibTsaXPuhamZL-i30wm3xnhDOXe5RT18YsW0j6oiQREdS/s1600/IMG_6577.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdMmGqCISkXNhwQ1iNQy14uNb4p71pTwrwsIVTnc7-RSYKPVV-mnRULpEeLdwOx7D0Cc2X5QVMXBJu308sbKuMTt4PJYL08OGibTsaXPuhamZL-i30wm3xnhDOXe5RT18YsW0j6oiQREdS/s1600/IMG_6577.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></div><br />
Venice is the place to get lost in small alleys and roads; <strike>we</strike> I often found myself admiring the small shops and architecture in the hidden streets. The husband isn’t fond of getting lost, on purpose. <br />
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As we were walking to a dinner restaurant, we found a wine shop that sold wine on tap. We bought Pinot Nero & Prosecco for 6.20 Euros. That is the price of 3 liters of wine. Unbelievable. The wine shop owner recommended Vesuvio around the corner for dinner. The host offered us a menu to consider then suggested they had fresh fish and seafood for the day. Hungry and convinced, we sat down. He suggested bruschetta, sardine in saor, sardines that are topped with pickled onions, and ½ liter house wine to start. Then we opted for Branzino to share. The sardines were not fresh and the pickled onions didn’t help on taste. The bruschetta was average. And even though the fish was fresh, we were blown away by the price on the bill. The fish was 7 euros/100 grams. The 1/2 liter wine was 8.20 euros and they charged 10% service charge. It is tourist places like these that leave a bad taste in our mouth, pun intended. As many times as we had eaten out in Italy that week, we’d seldom seen a service charge or if there was a service charge, the food more than made up for the charge. Sadly dinner here was horrendous.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrj3eZEiHcRQzJsFFjNilC4j_wam-fI03EbfqH6lpZZ945ecqM1kFbdMtQxPCoseU1VOeWuauKD2XhEOE0qwXNRhmkM5iej5s11U7KarwvAGarn4_mHFkbPG8iqJLVTB0jMomToMDR1LEy/s1600/IMG_6695.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 0em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrj3eZEiHcRQzJsFFjNilC4j_wam-fI03EbfqH6lpZZ945ecqM1kFbdMtQxPCoseU1VOeWuauKD2XhEOE0qwXNRhmkM5iej5s11U7KarwvAGarn4_mHFkbPG8iqJLVTB0jMomToMDR1LEy/s1600/IMG_6695.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>Rialto Bridge is the other sight that draws tourists. The bridge is one of the most photographed sight after the San Marco Square and church. In addition to the bridge there is a fish market nearby that attracts the locals and the tourist photographers interested in seeing fresh seafood on ice, like me! And like many tourists we attempted to find a Gondola ride because when in Venice… The prices were pretty excessive, 80 Euros for two and therefore we decided not to do it. This is a personal choice and we don’t regret our decision. <br />
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That evening was our last night in Venice so we enjoyed the scenery. After a disastrous dinner the previous night, we were determined to find a better place. We found one on a street, on one of the canals, full of bars and restaurants. Most importantly, it was far from the tourist sights meaning the place for locals. We were greeted by an older guy who spoke to us in Italian and quickly realized we weren’t locals. We started with ½ liter of house wine and salmon crostini and sardine in saor, gave it one more try. The crostini was great but the sardine in saor wasn’t our favorite because again the pickled onions overpowered the fish. Then gnocchi with crab & parsley and boiled shrimp for main. The gnocchi was the best gnocchi we’ve ever had in our lives because it was light and fluffy. It literally melted in our mouths. The shrimp was fresh and simply made. Overall this trumps our dining experience in Venice especially the friendly service. I am sad, however, I don’t have a name for this place to share. The only tip I can give is to go to an area filled with locals, away from the sights and when you find yourself surrounded by Italian speaking locals, you’ve found a good area or restaurant. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLJ98f4OG_q_aM905z0zXQ0l84ezXcd9yWXtnntvXSnbp2YxWczL8HBaDnlbIKCGKzhm2LUpgqXGm2s5gnQ8UWfUkw16ifLTai1eChKOUrDpeKgs7oSxoe304gkYKZlJOgfOrWirXO2YbA/s1600/IMG_6703.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 0em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLJ98f4OG_q_aM905z0zXQ0l84ezXcd9yWXtnntvXSnbp2YxWczL8HBaDnlbIKCGKzhm2LUpgqXGm2s5gnQ8UWfUkw16ifLTai1eChKOUrDpeKgs7oSxoe304gkYKZlJOgfOrWirXO2YbA/s1600/IMG_6703.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHbwNE7ESe87UIxDhO3P8BIye1m3HELnlDxMsFnltI_ywxgfAkgmau7PiUCJW_Hbh5a2bPILRuoDVuRwbCN2EAllo1xwEzTofvywyPlU7x2X7Nfq53q0cDC-em0AJW8ph6Y84wQt9SS5q3/s1600/IMG_6707.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 0em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHbwNE7ESe87UIxDhO3P8BIye1m3HELnlDxMsFnltI_ywxgfAkgmau7PiUCJW_Hbh5a2bPILRuoDVuRwbCN2EAllo1xwEzTofvywyPlU7x2X7Nfq53q0cDC-em0AJW8ph6Y84wQt9SS5q3/s1600/IMG_6707.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a><br />
The next morning we visited Muraro for ½ day by taking a ferry from Venice. It is a scenic island on the water. It is the biggest off of Venice and known for glass making and blowing. We witnessed an artist in action at a studio. The prices on each piece are expensive as is the case for handmade products. For lunch we went to Ostaria on Campo san Bernado for fresh seafood. There were mussels & clams in tomato broth, calamari because I wanted it, badly, and Bolognese with pasta for the husband. Overall a fantastic meal in what seemed like a tourist-herded island. Venice is beautiful and deserves 3-4 days, a luxury we didn’t have however we will be back again! <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiaCTbrdJwwuNMlyeNa0khIdy0L7-3AjMTpd7hSueZbBO5CzvKxzti5jGfDz9ciTIWnG3tWS7Ry9U4qG3S2oJU77nySFgdb3PTqsWGbG3LU4U1qZ9ARhiU-ie_qVYwbyLtchyphenhyphenWCt1KFng2/s1600/IMG_6737.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 0em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiaCTbrdJwwuNMlyeNa0khIdy0L7-3AjMTpd7hSueZbBO5CzvKxzti5jGfDz9ciTIWnG3tWS7Ry9U4qG3S2oJU77nySFgdb3PTqsWGbG3LU4U1qZ9ARhiU-ie_qVYwbyLtchyphenhyphenWCt1KFng2/s1600/IMG_6737.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>Our final destination was Verona, a small town with Italian character. Verona is known for two things- owning the building that Juliet (from Romeo & Juliet) grew up in and an amphitheater. The Juliet home, be warned, gets many visitors and is overcrowded. It also doesn’t help that there’s a statue of Juliet in the courtyard and the tradition to rub/touch her breast (started by some crazy person) still exists so every few seconds a tourist touches gropes the statute’s breast, for good luck in love. Where do they come up with this stuff? Verona is small enough to spend an hour or two wandering the streets because we found some old restored buildings. <br />
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Dinner in Verona was an interesting experience. We started at Osteria Sottoriva for a primi of chicken wings, horse meatballs, and ½ liter of Prosecco. We also ordered filled pasta, I can’t decipher the name on my notes, so try it if seen on the menu. It was egg pasta filled with ricotta & mushrooms; the filling was flavorful but the pasta tasted like a thin omelet; we weren’t crazy for the pasta. We don’t know how horse meat is supposed to taste but this was an ordinary meatball but the food in general was good. The vibe at this restaurant is wine bar, cool (as in hip) and relaxed. There is outdoor seating on the sidewalk and high tops inside. <br />
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We proceeded to La Tigela to find it packed with high school students. Known for their gnocco and salumi, we were certain that is all we wanted for dinner. Sadly, we were turned away and had to keep looking for gnocco. We then stopped in 6 different restaurants to check for seating and were turned away from all. It was Saturday night at 8pm so I imagine the entire town was out with their friends and family for dinner. We finally found a place that had many open tables and decided to stay because we were starved. Our last meal in Verona Italy was at an Indian restaurant. As I felt that night, I am still appalled by this fact. Even though we were bummed of the outcome, we were happy to be at this place because the food was spicy and homey in some ways. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcwmxBtkdhAuT__LPhouuMnmDrTtu0xWe61qtESYQ9aNjUE9uitNl2STt5NlavRSv9DHdQYEks73rr7vhibSqxA_bFoWgkFHFnLhjgfVrwaACU6PJyaSZOCtqPPrFxAAiuouwCQM4OZRUK/s1600/IMG_6763.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcwmxBtkdhAuT__LPhouuMnmDrTtu0xWe61qtESYQ9aNjUE9uitNl2STt5NlavRSv9DHdQYEks73rr7vhibSqxA_bFoWgkFHFnLhjgfVrwaACU6PJyaSZOCtqPPrFxAAiuouwCQM4OZRUK/s1600/IMG_6763.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></div><br />
Driving from Verona to Nürnberg is only 5- 6 hours on a good day. The drive is filled with natural scenery and plush greenery along the Alps. The mountains have picturesque small towns with churches and some areas are covered with vineyards.<br />
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Writing about our trip almost 3 years later, I am brought back to the food and sights of Northern Italy. We will always remember the gnocco we tried for the first time and (the husband) often reminisce of eating fried dough with prosciutto as a snack. Or that Venice will remain one of our all time favorite cities. </div></span>krishwalahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14268236809577851121noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2493381014412529077.post-91581301602693274822014-07-01T10:10:00.000+02:002014-07-03T12:37:26.062+02:00Kaffee & Kuchen<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span style="font-size: medium;">The tradition to take a break in the afternoon for a coffee (and cake) has been around for quite some time, in Europe I presume, but especially in Germany. We learned of this from some friends we’ve made after moving here. She’s a retired teacher, married to her husband for many years and we enjoy spending time with them because they’re full of stories and life. She described when she was a young girl her mother baked 2-3 cakes/tarts each Sunday. The family would eat the desserts in the afternoon or after dinner. The husband shares examples when the department has coffee after lunch or in the afternoon for a quick pick me up. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEN94mZfxA53djIW4Vr4vfWKjcrZ9lvhoC7Y22Kah97lCqHxw8LtAXFTPMHAcGANAKvDlzW1K4YYz4tM_i9QbgnWUY1qoL0WS2CKeDcY789jGH2sZeRflWJMmdlnzHRl0WaFr_qcF8bgKh/s1600/IMG_7248.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEN94mZfxA53djIW4Vr4vfWKjcrZ9lvhoC7Y22Kah97lCqHxw8LtAXFTPMHAcGANAKvDlzW1K4YYz4tM_i9QbgnWUY1qoL0WS2CKeDcY789jGH2sZeRflWJMmdlnzHRl0WaFr_qcF8bgKh/s320/IMG_7248.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQaD2zU7fXxo0THeX1BZfN4BHJPBtuLjuQtciZrTyxB-B8wKLSN8uOPPg_MJokJMPojZK7xCuf8YSAvwc3LI30GnNmgZuz-bvFpmsx8TdvhuqDCnWsFsm1_en-OlRzXxg79FXwDm1k9bnz/s1600/IMG_7250.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQaD2zU7fXxo0THeX1BZfN4BHJPBtuLjuQtciZrTyxB-B8wKLSN8uOPPg_MJokJMPojZK7xCuf8YSAvwc3LI30GnNmgZuz-bvFpmsx8TdvhuqDCnWsFsm1_en-OlRzXxg79FXwDm1k9bnz/s320/IMG_7250.JPG" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfnRszkG1pyjuR0F4IAYw3lL4-tyJdX0IZPbbjB1k6FZyknuafvXugxtHWPzNeBC3qzElVAEvZuQEYfsIDGJCzoZKP1-AswgIl1BrH-fAQsLwuaTeNdqbs-_rw1QnxHVNJXSRMLosmODTT/s1600/IMG_7251.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfnRszkG1pyjuR0F4IAYw3lL4-tyJdX0IZPbbjB1k6FZyknuafvXugxtHWPzNeBC3qzElVAEvZuQEYfsIDGJCzoZKP1-AswgIl1BrH-fAQsLwuaTeNdqbs-_rw1QnxHVNJXSRMLosmODTT/s320/IMG_7251.JPG" height="220" width="143" /></a> We are not only lucky to live in the city but 100 meters from one of the best confectionary/cake/pastry shop, Cafe Neef. This is also very dangerous as I often want to stop in to buy a slice of freshly made cake. I have been good but it is always tempting because the aromas emanating from the shop are heavenly. <br />
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Having learned of this tradition I’m convinced. I love the idea of having cake for the afternoon with a cup of coffee. Consequently I’ve been known to, <a href="http://porkbierbelly.blogspot.de/2013/11/apple-cake.html">on occasion</a>, bake a cake or tart for the week. It’s a wonderfully good way to enjoy life’s simple pleasures. Of course, everything in moderation! Sugar and flour, tsk tsk, but life is too short sans indulgence. </span></div>krishwalahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14268236809577851121noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2493381014412529077.post-32549581011347553412014-06-30T09:30:00.000+02:002014-06-30T09:30:28.019+02:00coastal Portugal <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span style="font-size: medium;">After <a href="http://porkbierbelly.blogspot.de/2014/06/multi-city-trip-to-portugal.html">Porto & Lisbon</a>, we were ready for the coastal towns. Driving towards Obidos we had our first sight of the Atlantic in the town of Ericeria. We stopped to enjoy the view and buy Pao com Chorizo (ciabatta filled with Chorizo) from a food cart. The lady doesn’t speak English so pointing and ordering was best. The best way to describe it is Portuguese hot pocket, freshly made and warm out of the oven. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg773a9fxiNiukSVQff05bRa1D_5GR7c2Xf-Uldeqd_yXpyASancdqs6I7n1PBrbXW4mScx-Ayz_CuH1E92VI-9PttSBmyI3QioF8SnrDpbKwfOsb8Lems8Cnl-hJRWxPpNvSNm57AGAkh1/s1600/IMG_6055.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg773a9fxiNiukSVQff05bRa1D_5GR7c2Xf-Uldeqd_yXpyASancdqs6I7n1PBrbXW4mScx-Ayz_CuH1E92VI-9PttSBmyI3QioF8SnrDpbKwfOsb8Lems8Cnl-hJRWxPpNvSNm57AGAkh1/s1600/IMG_6055.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>We proceeded to the convent in Obidos. The host had planned a wonderful surprise with bubbly wine. The convent is located in the old town, inside the walls and has many rooms. Our bedroom was spacious with a sitting area and two full baths, this room is ideal for small families. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrXlB8FhDucRd8_CJ8lmOYd4rDH7_gAyqQFowuIEqg_Avi4n7t4P0VYqsgCvoX5ID3gqudO5Jrh868ZNdcxMIBQkFKgSGtTRxSdDqKmP3OGfmNo2wGMUSIUsUHIDePdGZXP_p4P_YWCQ4N/s1600/IMG_6033.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrXlB8FhDucRd8_CJ8lmOYd4rDH7_gAyqQFowuIEqg_Avi4n7t4P0VYqsgCvoX5ID3gqudO5Jrh868ZNdcxMIBQkFKgSGtTRxSdDqKmP3OGfmNo2wGMUSIUsUHIDePdGZXP_p4P_YWCQ4N/s320/IMG_6033.JPG" height="200" width="133" /></a>Obidos is a walled in village with beautiful homes and shops. One of the neat shops was a market that sells vegetables and fruits and books. There are also many souvenir shops. <br />
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Our host recommended 1st December (yes that’s the name) for a meal. Minutes away from the convent, we arrived promptly at 8. Upon the server’s suggestion the husband ordered homemade sausage with rice and I ordered the legume soup. The soup was made of dried green peas, cooked in onions, carrots and other flavorings, blended and served with pasta. Although it had potential to be mouth-watering, it wasn’t. The homemade sausage was of ground chicken in a casing, deep fried and scrumptious. The batter attributed to the crispy exterior and the meat was cooked nicely. The rice was simply seasoned with salt and a good pairing for the sausage. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3kOSXB0Cgb52NNpc9nJ9bYbTRJc8tKryZnkREZgrRYx71KXsXc3WU3WT2HCoeXSDefFIycl-RTY3IZ8ZD74nnU3WyHKsMxak4HlBH8AHcV_moYjGLRV_1du8eZdMdtNxmoOGn7EJB2SSU/s1600/IMG_6097.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3kOSXB0Cgb52NNpc9nJ9bYbTRJc8tKryZnkREZgrRYx71KXsXc3WU3WT2HCoeXSDefFIycl-RTY3IZ8ZD74nnU3WyHKsMxak4HlBH8AHcV_moYjGLRV_1du8eZdMdtNxmoOGn7EJB2SSU/s1600/IMG_6097.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>We were traveling to nearby monasteries and church for the days. Alcobaça is a monastery and church in one and draws the tourists for its exemplified gothic design. The structure was built in the 12th century. The main room in the church is simple with tall columns and is serenely spacious. There’s a love story of Dom Pedro and the woman he married in secret, who was murdered by Dom Pedro’s father, King Alfonso IV. There isn’t an English audio guide granting us time to walk at our own pace. During our visit there were many rooms under renovation. The monastery allowed monks to live here permanently. The large rooms are dedicated to spirituality, cooking and sleeping. Due to the large rooms, the monks cooked together and slept in the same room. There is even a room dedicated to silence. <br />
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Lunch after touring the monastery was at Calderira in Obidos. Due to cloudy weather I got pig knuckle with rice & beans as well as cabbage, a very German meal but it had Portuguese flavors with garlic, olive oil and mild peppers. The pork was good and a large portion to share; rice and beans were terrific. The husband had goat chops with pan fried potatoes and spinach. The chops were swimming in olive oil and garlic, a good sign. The vegetables were cooked nicely but under seasoned. I see a pattern: meat is cooked and salted adequately while the veggies are under seasoned. <br />
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What is it with countries on the coast that under season with salt? Salt from the sea is in abundance people! I am judging based on my own preferences but culinary school taught me to adequately season with salt because it enhances the flavors of foods. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuSbUuHVkeabab3LCZlrWzhpFCVttwm4FflCdbHDJ5SZ9ngoCGctMETtv63H_R5IXBXr9B0cxQKbCgmx3mjCGISeJvuxGkGDBIVsGq-TRJ91FF6geKE4orDByjr1DQTuzDaAaK_dq7bgz1/s1600/IMG_6102.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuSbUuHVkeabab3LCZlrWzhpFCVttwm4FflCdbHDJ5SZ9ngoCGctMETtv63H_R5IXBXr9B0cxQKbCgmx3mjCGISeJvuxGkGDBIVsGq-TRJ91FF6geKE4orDByjr1DQTuzDaAaK_dq7bgz1/s1600/IMG_6102.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>Heading north we ended up in Nazaré. Hotel Mar Bravo is modern and attempting to be chic. The main draw is its location and proximity to the shore; our room’s balcony faced the beach. The staff was helpful, the rooms were adequate especially the shower that’s equipped with shower and soaking tub. Surfers flock to Nazaré because of the waves and due to the rain and high tide we saw some tall waves. <br />
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During nice weather, it’s a beautiful stroll on the beach that’s equipped with a sidewalk. <br />
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For dinner we went to A Tasquinha. We ordered shrimp salad to share: fried shrimp on top of salad greens and mixed vegetables and mayonnaise dressing. Although mayonnaise sounds odd with shrimp salad, it worked. For main the server suggested sea bass, freshly caught. The fish was butterflied, grilled and briefly broiled for char. The fish came with house sauce (olive oil, shallots, cilantro & salt). The sauce enhanced the fish perfectly and made the meal memorable. The sides were green salad, braised cabbage and boiled potatoes. The sides were sufficient for two and fine. The bottle of vinho verde was selected by the server, slightly pricier than house wine but paired properly with the meal. The dessert was almond pudding; eggs, cream and sugar cooked with chopped almonds, typical to the region. The service was spot on and both the server & owner were generous. It’s a small restaurant so we recommend making reservations for a weekend evening. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKLMhZVqwwjZW7zb65C5m6j7qZghgjV5USB4uCufwtJYp2XXEvVxXviO9iKKwlmUw4Mue4h27wPb49xcHWKJShFEzR20fX4TMFodMhO8tlF0zlmrJRWCj-IbZX5lz_PIcxX3qqo8TjqjTp/s1600/IMG_6113.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKLMhZVqwwjZW7zb65C5m6j7qZghgjV5USB4uCufwtJYp2XXEvVxXviO9iKKwlmUw4Mue4h27wPb49xcHWKJShFEzR20fX4TMFodMhO8tlF0zlmrJRWCj-IbZX5lz_PIcxX3qqo8TjqjTp/s320/IMG_6113.JPG" /></a>Here we saw many ladies in traditional garments going about their day. The cool thing was they were all older ladies, dressed in the same type of outfit, skirt, sweater, long socks. It seemed fitting for winter days.<br />
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We’d learned of the Mira de Avia caves inland and the perfect activity to be away from the rain. Driving inland, the region is mountainous. The entrance to the caves is shabby with every trinket/souvenir available in Portugal. We were the only visitors that morning and with concern we asked the ticket office if they offer English tours and they affirmed. We waited 20 minutes before a guide arrived, disconcerting. He said he only spoke Portuguese or French. Perplexed we asked the ticket office for an English tour guide and moments later an English speaking “guide” turned up. Quotes because her English was average at best but we were thankful to have someone clarify the basics. Also the caves cannot be visited without a guide. The caves are millions of years old and 700 steps below ground. The guide took many breaks to permit us to take photos and explain the history. After touring the caves we were glad we visited this out of the way sight. Make sure to get an English guide before buying the ticket. The caves are so extensive that there’s even a room created in the formation that is reserved for special events, i.e. weddings, dinners, private parties. Cool. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuoCty6P-vhwQWKJdS80KUupPIZ1nr6wo7p3B_UEYs57uGc1OHIBJOnVABEUcE6MTzeucrBu6ytmKx-FQ8T2dSiHpwLZMun9F6G5mVJQr6LtR-Ah5Oa2Aq-MIOJlxXh1Tl2-rwUGexA_XG/s1600/IMG_6143.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuoCty6P-vhwQWKJdS80KUupPIZ1nr6wo7p3B_UEYs57uGc1OHIBJOnVABEUcE6MTzeucrBu6ytmKx-FQ8T2dSiHpwLZMun9F6G5mVJQr6LtR-Ah5Oa2Aq-MIOJlxXh1Tl2-rwUGexA_XG/s1600/IMG_6143.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>The tour was 45 minutes and it was 2pm, hungry for lunch we were on a look out for local places. As we were driving back to the coast, I spotted Restaurante Tasquinha D´ Maria on Rua Principal, Porto de Mós, on the windy road. There were few parked cars so we took that as a sign for the locals’ place in the area. When we entered, an older woman pulled the husband’s hand and pointed to a table, gesturing come in and sit. We smiled because we knew we’d entered a place that would feel like the grandma’s home. Once inside we walked through part of a kitchen that had a large charcoal grill built next to the stove. The chef was grilling meats on the entire rectangular grill implying they were busy for lunch. I went back to the grill to ask the older woman what everyone was getting. The older woman handed me the menu and pointed to the meat, in Portuguese, then a younger woman walked over and handed me an English menu. The older woman tugged at my jeans and pointed me to my seat. The gesture felt warm and like my grandma was telling me to take my place at the table. We asked other diners for their recommendations and they suggested beef liver and beef innards. We ordered one of each. The younger woman, also our server, suggested we get fresh cheese and tomato salad. The fresh cheese was amazing, so good we ordered another plate. The cheese had a Greek yogurt consistency and tasted like fresh cheese, perfectly salted. The tomato salad was fine though we were sad the tomatoes weren’t vine-ripe. The mains were accompanied with roasted potatoes for me and french fries for him. I’d never tried beef liver before and I was surprisingly impressed, it was cooked nicely. The husband’s dish was flavorful but overdone, sadly. The roasted potatoes were with olive oil and vinegar, a good accompaniment to the fatty meat. The fries were freshly fried. Later the server asked if we wanted dessert and we declined but having seen other diners order it we opted for one to share. It was rice pudding (or Indian kheer) with cinnamon flavors. Decent finish to the meal. Our total bill was 18 euros for all that food and wine. We loved the atmosphere and the genuine effort the three women and a man put towards their guests. The food here will never compare to a Michelin restaurant but the experience will make this one of the most memorable for us in Portugal. This is a gem and worth seeking out. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNGp26bvC10Uwjgsy4EvnskmNDpEFBodTxxCEagNFov7zd9wspJq83mwDkItBlIWTPXk0iWeoNWZBqt_qzxx9qnmrDvQ3y4ipCmVz0YPzfL-NOlhy_qUyQyMjPK2HuY4YUROmQIUHV2YHN/s1600/IMG_6194.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNGp26bvC10Uwjgsy4EvnskmNDpEFBodTxxCEagNFov7zd9wspJq83mwDkItBlIWTPXk0iWeoNWZBqt_qzxx9qnmrDvQ3y4ipCmVz0YPzfL-NOlhy_qUyQyMjPK2HuY4YUROmQIUHV2YHN/s1600/IMG_6194.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>We then drove to Batalha for a tour. There are lots of monasteries in Portugal! This one built in the 14th century. There are large, spacious rooms that allowed monks to live in silence. We learned there are designated rooms (kitchen, living, sleeping) because monks must practice a vow of silence at all times. Unlike Alcobaça church, the church here is simple and undistinguished. <br />
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With rain prompting our departure we drove to our almost last stop of the trip, Figuera de Foz. Our bed & breakfast, Casa dos Suecos, is in a residential neighborhood and in an unassuming home. Once inside there is a grand dining room for guests, few rooms on the first floor and few more on the second floor. Our room on the second floor was large with a sitting area, a bathroom with a tub and a balcony with a view of the ocean. Although the sea is some distance from the home, it is nice to have a balcony with a view. <br />
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We reserved for dinner that evening because the dining room converts to restaurant at night. That night was a special night with a fixed menu due to a certain holiday of love that’s celebrated in America and the tradition has caught on in European countries. (This shows how long I’ve procrastinated on writing this trip report.) The restaurant was completely booked for the dinner. <br />
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For appetizers we had filo filled with salmon and spinach, toast with melted brie and balsamic glaze and a sausage bruschetta. All lovely and a great start to the meal with bubbly wine. Second course was layered mozzarella, tomato and eggplant with basil oil, also good. I did think it felt out of season to have eggplant and tomato before Spring but I don’t fault the chef for this. This is an acceptable choice for a large crowd. The main was veal filet mignon with potato au gratin and green bean bundle. The potatoes were great while we think the chef forgot to season the green beans. Our veal was drizzled with garlic oil, and cooked to well done. Another table also received a well done filet so they returned theirs which prompted us to send ours back as well. We felt bad for doing so but it was filet mignon and that can’t be eaten well done! When we got the meat again it was rare and medium rare, like the way it should be. Sadly this second round of meat wasn’t as flavorful as the first one and under seasoned with salt. The dessert was waffle cone with filled with strawberries and drizzled with chocolate. The best part was the salt in the chocolate to play on the sweet and salty. Due to the prix-fixe menu, there was unlimited bubbly wine to start and enjoy with appetizers as well as red or white wine for dinner. Due to the large volume of cooking, there were some missteps however food presentation, flavors and service were impeccable. I think the restaurant was trying hard to serve the best food they could with a full house. The restaurant & bed & breakfast were newly opened when we visited and both have potential to become very popular amongst the locals and tourists. <br />
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Our flight home the next day was late so we drove to Aveiro, seaside town by Porto and wandered the town. Not only was Aveiro booming with salt factory export in its heyday, it is buzzing with students because of the university in the town. There are still some salt beds near the canals; speaking of canals, Aveiro calls itself the Venice of Portugal. The boat tour on the canals is nice but it is no Venice. The boat operator said fishermen still use the canals to get to sea for fishing. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_f4PE8-e6GXgV0g5O1kmqBPrBf8WtC-XjMsdFtYEfoqMsHTDsNptSF-PDlP6YCH6GdR-nn6z9QidrR3kRMLEqcASJL-5oXA3y2MbStuZQ4HEsbKoiehDyAlZERrgzYNTroRnN5GDxtd7o/s1600/IMG_6195.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_f4PE8-e6GXgV0g5O1kmqBPrBf8WtC-XjMsdFtYEfoqMsHTDsNptSF-PDlP6YCH6GdR-nn6z9QidrR3kRMLEqcASJL-5oXA3y2MbStuZQ4HEsbKoiehDyAlZERrgzYNTroRnN5GDxtd7o/s1600/IMG_6195.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>The fish market is bustling in the morning until 12- 1pm. It’s not for the queasy mind because the vendors sell the fish and seafood whole. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIRiwiy0pKK6wAc6nPw3wDEIBTyEfHcv5RNUBPnDM7COznplXfZqaRt_1zF_Kg_dO1s-OYU_QjHDXgAdtzSpp9iobDdCeO-rtYwUSBMnPchpqVmTgWUSERcNAjLAxyiLacV6Z0sUBySBjZ/s1600/IMG_6196.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIRiwiy0pKK6wAc6nPw3wDEIBTyEfHcv5RNUBPnDM7COznplXfZqaRt_1zF_Kg_dO1s-OYU_QjHDXgAdtzSpp9iobDdCeO-rtYwUSBMnPchpqVmTgWUSERcNAjLAxyiLacV6Z0sUBySBjZ/s1600/IMG_6196.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>We ate lunch at O Telheiro near the fish market in the town. Walking inside the restaurant we were directed to the back of the restaurant, where most of the locals sat. We ordered sardines, fish soup, caldo verde and grilled mackerel. The fish soup was flavorful from the fish bone broth, caldo verde (cabbage and potato soup) was hearty, the sardines and mackerel were fresh and cooked to the proper doneness, the side of braised cabbaged with black eyed peas was straightforward and won me over. This entire meal was exactly how we anticipated our last lunch to be fresh foods simply enhanced with lots of olive oil. <br />
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A revelation for both of us was the coffee in Portugal. We didn’t think the Portuguese would allow bad coffee but they do, Nescafe, at that! The entire time we were disappointed in the lackluster coffee we drank. Don’t expect much more than watered down, bad coffee here. Another revelation was the love affair with potatoes, like the Spanish. We love potatoes but by the end of our stay we were ready for a break. <br />
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Food tip- don’t eat the olives and other starters brought out by the server that aren’t ordered, they aren’t free. <br />
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Someone said this was the wettest winter in hundred years. I don’t know how much of that is true or an exaggeration but it rained cats and dogs for most of the time we were visiting. I wish I could warn of a particular rainy season to avoid however this was unusual, even for the locals! Some days were worse than others and it was depressing but the food and sights more than made up for it. </div></span>krishwalahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14268236809577851121noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2493381014412529077.post-10269380737122066922014-06-27T20:07:00.001+02:002014-06-30T09:27:34.999+02:00multi-city trip to Portugal <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span style="font-size: medium;">Hope you’re ready for lots of trip reports because they’re coming. I am on a mission to write and share about the trips we’ve done, in a short time. Mind you, some are old because I’ve been <strike>procrastinating</strike>, <strike>busy</strike>, busy procrastinating. <br />
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Our late winter, early spring trip was to Portugal. We’d plan to start in Porto, drive our way down to Lisbon and then drive up the coast back to Porto. Porto is a wine town with plenty of port. It has port cellars because in 18th century producers grew grapes in the Duoro Valley (Pinhao), made port onsite and transported it to the cellars in Porto on river for aging. <br />
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Due to our delayed flight, we arrived to the bed & breakfast, The White Box, at 1 am. The room was on the top floor in an attic with a skylight, normally that’s a bonus, however due to constant downpour we barely slept the first night. (The husband and I big fans for thunderstorms, rain and sleeping through dull weather but we were extremely tired that night and couldn’t get much sleep due to the rain.) The next morning we spoke with our b&b host about the weather forecast and she agreed it was gloom (and doom) and the rain wasn’t stopping. Our B&B host said this winter has been unusual in that it’s rained nonstop. Although it rains in February, it’s intermittently. We left grey German weather for grey Portugal weather. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKajp6_GfDJBldN4FjZv3Dbzi1jtUs7_hXi94xIUgzdPCYt_SqhzNxznggy4bNvFtlTEXp9O4oKLl9rCGJT2AgXpuqfWNoQlWzHiZOJJ2z_7Jw-KegfKekdMaI4N6Vr8U63C02aF4FZWj6/s1600/IMG_5879.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKajp6_GfDJBldN4FjZv3Dbzi1jtUs7_hXi94xIUgzdPCYt_SqhzNxznggy4bNvFtlTEXp9O4oKLl9rCGJT2AgXpuqfWNoQlWzHiZOJJ2z_7Jw-KegfKekdMaI4N6Vr8U63C02aF4FZWj6/s400/IMG_5879.JPG" height="425" width="640" /></a><br />
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Post breakfast, we reevaluated our schedule and considered an early trip home. Then we agreed we would stay and make the best of our time.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-PAaeBfyNGl4pQS7PFJ-gjmapW9fKgyRJZgFIVmIWDg6h3Ee-qOG6OcMefy2KLsqD3k7xkmaIa4vra8PUdPqbZTtqWEzopaqMg0K9RkQRtn_LiTKVQ0TUiT0pyi7Yf_Leiwj2eYgO9C_S/s1600/IMG_5900.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-PAaeBfyNGl4pQS7PFJ-gjmapW9fKgyRJZgFIVmIWDg6h3Ee-qOG6OcMefy2KLsqD3k7xkmaIa4vra8PUdPqbZTtqWEzopaqMg0K9RkQRtn_LiTKVQ0TUiT0pyi7Yf_Leiwj2eYgO9C_S/s400/IMG_5900.JPG" /></a>Without a guide or guidebook we wondered around the city on our own. Porto is hilly with few memorable sights including Ponte de Dom (bridge) and the Cathedral. Porto is scattered with tiles on the streets and in public areas. We could’ve easily spent two whole days in Porto but the weather kept us mostly indoors or away from the sights. <br />
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For lunch we had two restaurants on our list but couldn’t find either of them and ended up at a no-name place in a small strip mall. The husband ordered a sandwich, Francesinha, while I ordered the daily special. When our food arrived, we realized we should’ve shared the sandwich because it was a hefty portion. The sandwich was ham, grilled veal, melted cheese and a special sauce. The sauce tasted similar to tomato soup and béchamel sauce in one with a touch of hot pepper, cayenne. Although each component was tasty, the sauce made the sandwich a hit. I asked the server if my soup was caldo verde, (Portuguese vegetable soup with potatoes and cabbage or greens) and she said it wasn’t. It was greens cooked in a creamy broth and the greens weren’t overcooked and limpy even after long- cooking in broth. I’d say it was caldo verde and very good. My main dish was Baccalao (salted cod) topped with breadcrumbs and a side of vegetables. The cod was fresh and appetizing but the crumbs and vegetables were not. <br />
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Other than sight see Porto, we managed to get a tasting of port at Taylor’s. They offer 3 tastings in the price: dry white that drink like an aperitif, LBV (?) and a 10 year port. In addition to the 3, we bought a tasting of 20 year port. Both the aperitif and LBV was surprising good, above our anticipation. Better yet the husband joked we like cheap wine; that might be true but we like what we like. <br />
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We spent couple hours at our cozy bed & breakfast. For dinner we called a taxi to PapaVinhos, highly recommended from a friend. There we ordered pate, tuna salad with mayo, onions and capers. I liked it because I always like that combination but the husband didn’t care for it. For dinner we shared clams in garlic sauce & grilled octopus served with greens and potatoes. Clams cooked in garlic sauce. The chef used generous amounts of garlic and olive oil which is always. While the seafood was perfectly seasoned, the potatoes and greens were not salted. The restaurant host was extremely friendly and suggested a wonderful white wine to pair with dinner; his service made our dinner unforgettable. He even ordered a taxi for us. <br />
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Both our host and the B&B were wonderful. The b&B is a gem, our room 6 was spacious and felt like spending time in a friend’s luxurious guest room. The room is in the attic so be prepared to climb some narrow stairs. The host serves freshly baked cakes daily. The host helped us with our day planning to sightsee Porto. <br />
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Off to Coimbra, a historic university town on a hill. The architecture is the reason to visit. Most buildings are still being used for classes and offices. We couldn’t get audio for a self guided tour at the university because the office was on a lunch break from 12- 2. And unfortunately the cathedral was closed when we visited. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmTt2nTS45EqOAZE1URewljtdrR-5GfO0eF5SHA2By9SBCwienRshCLg2QOXDJrFyNCK3h3bXEEmWd5XLdyjUNtqJzGKWvB97eChdVvcKeU0GzOFgiMcRW3rdWCnOafP3CQUSk8Gp0T3kp/s1600/IMG_5906.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmTt2nTS45EqOAZE1URewljtdrR-5GfO0eF5SHA2By9SBCwienRshCLg2QOXDJrFyNCK3h3bXEEmWd5XLdyjUNtqJzGKWvB97eChdVvcKeU0GzOFgiMcRW3rdWCnOafP3CQUSk8Gp0T3kp/s320/IMG_5906.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn2OiUN5EP7ykUEHoKeuDrZTBPAMIwbUEgue5bNoliRXSo_SXHc5m_fsLqX1a7DiDNFNQhCZX76PuQPPrSBvD-sZ-XwfovytOUE9AVozxOjekleQOFUkXYF3Umbfzd4l42vIcOvZvl9_qE/s1600/IMG_5907.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn2OiUN5EP7ykUEHoKeuDrZTBPAMIwbUEgue5bNoliRXSo_SXHc5m_fsLqX1a7DiDNFNQhCZX76PuQPPrSBvD-sZ-XwfovytOUE9AVozxOjekleQOFUkXYF3Umbfzd4l42vIcOvZvl9_qE/s320/IMG_5907.JPG" /></a><br />
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We found O Serenata and stopped in to find locals eating lunch. I got grilled squid with potatoes, spinach and black eyed peas and he ordered fish with salad. His main dish came with a legume soup which was good but under seasoned. My squid was overdone but the black eyed peas tasted like grandma made them and a winner. His fish was oily and bland, worst yet the salad greens still had dirt on them. <br />
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Initially we left Porto with Lisbon as the end destination in mind but due to the gorgeous sunny weather, we stopped in Coimbra for a stop. With or without the guide and tours, Coimbra was worth the short visit. <br />
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The distance from Porto to Lisbon is doable in an afternoon, with or without a stop. <br />
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After checking into our bed & breakfast/hostel, we headed to dinner in Lisbon at Solar dos Presuntos. The restaurant was extremely busy and didn’t have tables for guests that didn’t make reservations. The host made a makeshift table for us, by the door. Adequate but it was rather awkward and noisy. We were hurriedly asked to order and we picked garlic shrimp and Lamprey escabeche. Lamprey is a fish that looks like a snake. The escabeche was thinly sliced and served cold. It tastes like dark meaty fish. The shrimp were good but not extraordinary. The service was lackluster, the prices high and the locals were treated much more favorably than the tourists. We chose Solar because of the reviews and recommendations from local bloggers and were disappointed. Blasphemy, I know. I’d say save your money for somewhere else. <br />
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That night, hungry for more food we stopped in at Prego Sandwiches. Prego is a steak or veal sandwich that’s gained popularity in Lisbon and normally eaten after a hefty seafood meal. Prego Sandwiches is running on that theme and offers 6- 8 sandwiches. We shared a Marialva with traditional bacon and mustard. They offer beer and wine at the bar. The atmosphere is comfortable while the interior is modern (attracts the hipster crowd). The sandwich was acceptable but the meat was medium well, borderline well done. I’d give Prego a try again, with local beer and a sandwich. Next time, I would ask the server to cook the meat a little less, medium rare or medium. <br />
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The first day in Lisbon was a wash out, literally. It rained all day and we were wet and cold going from one place to another. About that rain…. goodness. We had breakfast in bed because the husband surprised me, for the heck of it. He is a keeper! Then we walked to Metro, bought the 24 hour metro pass for 6 Euros/person + 0.50 cent for the card. The card can be renewed. Public transportation was cheap in Portugal. Most importantly, it’s convenient and the locals use it as well. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9_FTT1KHajkpYdBX8YxOzIj7W-30Z0rsVcHd9lfxunk0QfcgroPk_MzbEpGvGMW4vxFGKY-YEiecpgP2Oi-pTfWB7UGTZlVQ66j7-yr3gTssqkbhiczEm0OQ4-BtYl44CBaXGf5hzL1z9/s1600/IMG_5929.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9_FTT1KHajkpYdBX8YxOzIj7W-30Z0rsVcHd9lfxunk0QfcgroPk_MzbEpGvGMW4vxFGKY-YEiecpgP2Oi-pTfWB7UGTZlVQ66j7-yr3gTssqkbhiczEm0OQ4-BtYl44CBaXGf5hzL1z9/s640/IMG_5929.JPG" /></a><br />
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Even with the rain, we went to Castello San Jorge and didn’t go inside because the English tour was offered in the morning and we’d missed it. Instead we walked to National Pantheon. The museum houses Vasco de Gama monument and history of important Portuguese figures. We learned Portugal was under a dictatorship until 1974, shocking. And Antonio Spínola was instrumental in bringing down the government. <br />
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After the museum we went to Bon Jardim for lunch. This is the place to get piri piri chicken and maybe some sides. For two people the owner, I believe, suggested a whole chicken to share. The chicken is marinated in the piri piri sauce and roasted on a rotisserie. The chicken is life changing and Bon Jardim deserves a visit. Not only is the chicken flavorful, it’s spicy with a good kick and each table has the piri piri sauce to add to each bite. Add at your own risk because it is extremely spicy but addictive. With a half bottle of wine, we were happy. The restaurant is a modest and attracts the (mostly blue collar) locals and some tourists while the service is thoughtful. Come here for the chicken and leave happy and full. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUPA0TBEkxzK4BEo-Zjdl-ka2AIJ10skGWztNxy__lO6GlJzk80E_LlDOoGj1XQv6arzS2RqzrZoqlrEsUcYr9uSyVXFYlHh59FHonEJwDDyW4x4bdOhWLG-sBI_j3uOLKXv0EaoH_E5HQ/s1600/IMG_5924.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUPA0TBEkxzK4BEo-Zjdl-ka2AIJ10skGWztNxy__lO6GlJzk80E_LlDOoGj1XQv6arzS2RqzrZoqlrEsUcYr9uSyVXFYlHh59FHonEJwDDyW4x4bdOhWLG-sBI_j3uOLKXv0EaoH_E5HQ/s640/IMG_5924.JPG" height="400" width="266" /></a>Post lunch was good time to head back and relax at the room. We headed to Cervejaria Ramiro; it’s a beer house and came highly recommended. Anthony Bourdain visited with his show and I was nervous if it was overrun with tourists. We arrived at 6:30, earlier than the typical Portuguese dinner time, 8:30- 9pm. After our beer order the older gentleman that was our server brought an iPad with all the seafood and fish available for the day. We started with shrimp. Then we ordered oysters on the half shell. The shrimp were steamed and sea salted. The oysters were briny, salty and fresh. Both the shrimp and oysters were ordered by other tables and thankfully we had as well because they were fantastic. Then a plate of tiger prawns; they were halved, grilled and brushed with butter. This was a first for us and we were happy to try them here. Others ordered crab and goose barnacles; during crab and barnacle season try them at Cervejaria Ramiro. Both are pricy so be prepared to spend some cash. We finished our dinner with a steak prego, as dessert, like Anthony Bourdain recommended. Yes, that’s right steak sandwich for dessert; when in Portugal…. The steak was marinated in oil and garlic, cooked rare – medium rare, sliced and served in a bun. The sandwich was served with some garlic. It was life altering, better than the prego from Prego. <br />
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The food at Ramiro arrived promptly. The older gentleman looked like he’s been working there for decades and is attentive with all his guests; our beers were refilled regularly. Even with TV exposure Ramiro hasn’t lost its traditional beer house touch and serves memorable food. Fresh seafood comes with a price and a hefty one at that but we nonetheless insist on having a meal here. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilz1JHPpwrXwfyfH13GeCne_-EjFtwS1F6iMhJRTfvELciAvDuXby_uPd3d8Jyw6-6-0pBmJnXSQVtBtEpSPXXhJBwvWJIYT71YL8jb3NsO6a6CSaH3tnZkPlSR8qKnV-jPP8onrya1qcM/s1600/IMG_5950.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilz1JHPpwrXwfyfH13GeCne_-EjFtwS1F6iMhJRTfvELciAvDuXby_uPd3d8Jyw6-6-0pBmJnXSQVtBtEpSPXXhJBwvWJIYT71YL8jb3NsO6a6CSaH3tnZkPlSR8qKnV-jPP8onrya1qcM/s640/IMG_5950.JPG" height="320" width="208" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTupwhRZyTYflEwqbxJrtuO5JN2QJS_inU0cJou39yV9vG8XRo3M2MLVTV7h8NhfgtkpwQ0qnfjOwYj7AtwZzLkmZC67L3FddUsMltzo0WuVbXxOGTvinSnfqFvUYqtC2RowYN22ZS7Dvm/s1600/IMG_5963.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTupwhRZyTYflEwqbxJrtuO5JN2QJS_inU0cJou39yV9vG8XRo3M2MLVTV7h8NhfgtkpwQ0qnfjOwYj7AtwZzLkmZC67L3FddUsMltzo0WuVbXxOGTvinSnfqFvUYqtC2RowYN22ZS7Dvm/s640/IMG_5963.JPG" height="320" width="208" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiumd-5y7M3SvnHyA44WlKIhDS1fvqsayjFm8YIOq-MJ30IRtdMI8X7CC68qxJRHkSfxqoHuVkLImgy8-JcLYxL0JtMrfcaRHdrBdlR_teNeu6gnqsQqlLVsyqQD5BcBNGXuKajP6Sv9zOZ/s1600/IMG_5962.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiumd-5y7M3SvnHyA44WlKIhDS1fvqsayjFm8YIOq-MJ30IRtdMI8X7CC68qxJRHkSfxqoHuVkLImgy8-JcLYxL0JtMrfcaRHdrBdlR_teNeu6gnqsQqlLVsyqQD5BcBNGXuKajP6Sv9zOZ/s640/IMG_5962.JPG" height="320" width="208" /></a><br />
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We had a schedule for the next full day in Lisbon. First, Jerónimos Monastery is a 20- 30 minute bus ride from Lisbon. It was built in 15th century and is now a UNESCO site. Kings and queens used the monastery as a meditation place. Audio guide tour is essential to understand the history and architecture. The monastery has a church which is included in the tour. The layout is open with a courtyard in the middle. Monastery feels spacious while the church is enclosed and dark. <br />
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The Belém pastry, Pastel de Nata, was first created by the monks from the monastery and have become famous for their delectable. We agreed it was fine. Many say the Belém pastry is a must; if you’re in the area try it but it’s not worth the trip. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg29NneJrEIYD4LM0qf2yEFElDsFgvs9dCH_ljSMWIETHQML3rzJyb4rkxXyMIZsCIR3y1pRXQsjUgSqViRQQYxpBaQqUuGjH8B1NIsJAeUu7nzViwx5JF6VqOzNNdJtwL0SweXSoXK6GVE/s1600/IMG_5998.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg29NneJrEIYD4LM0qf2yEFElDsFgvs9dCH_ljSMWIETHQML3rzJyb4rkxXyMIZsCIR3y1pRXQsjUgSqViRQQYxpBaQqUuGjH8B1NIsJAeUu7nzViwx5JF6VqOzNNdJtwL0SweXSoXK6GVE/s640/IMG_5998.JPG" /></a><br />
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Before heading back north in our car, we headed to the tile museum in Lisbon. It houses pieces from 18th, 19th and 20th century, Arabic & Spanish influence, the history and evolution of tile making. Due to an earthquake most of the city was destroyed, including renowned tiles. Lisbon panorama on the top floor reveals the city, in tiles, from before the quake. In addition to the museum many stations and city sidewalks display tile work evidence Portuguese love of tile art. <br />
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Sintra is a small town 20- 30 kilometers from Lisbon. It is one of the only places we visited that has many castles in a small area. The drive is easy but trains take tourists from the city to Sintra regularly. After wondering around the main drag to find a lunch spot we decided on Restaurant Bristol. Sintra’s proximity to the ocean would warrant unforgettable seafood/fish meals but due to the ongoing downpours the fisherman didn’t fish because of high seas. The server at Bristol suggested a fresh fish and baccalau (salt cod) gratin. I opted for grilled squid and the husband for gratin. The squid was perfectly grilled and delicious. The gratin was shredded potatoes with salt cod and spices; it tasted of American potato hash. This lunch could’ve easily gone the other way since the restaurant seems like a tourist trap but overall the food was good. <br />
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For dessert we circled Sintra multiple times to learn Sapa, a bakery, is closer to the train station. Sapa is known for queijadas, local pastry, filled with brown sugar and crispy exterior. The exterior can be best described as a wonton shell that’s fried or baked. The filling is brown sugar that’s broiled in the oven. I enjoyed queijadas but the husband found it too sweet. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizI0Kgwrys3r0LOUOOPZ3rWLwFphiC8mf5tnhInBdRZiceGrV1G_0I_GZfPqeXu_n_b8ws5Gq4nRJFxPHZeQaXH9bUcvotk3llFiPBz5kjO8qOp29Vj4kG1ByIpdpR_iY68xF7HAJKnOZ7/s1600/IMG_6003.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizI0Kgwrys3r0LOUOOPZ3rWLwFphiC8mf5tnhInBdRZiceGrV1G_0I_GZfPqeXu_n_b8ws5Gq4nRJFxPHZeQaXH9bUcvotk3llFiPBz5kjO8qOp29Vj4kG1ByIpdpR_iY68xF7HAJKnOZ7/s640/IMG_6003.JPG" /></a><br />
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With a full stomach we headed to Pena Palace which also took a long time to find. After circling the town and the back roads (our GPS had an incorrect address), we arrived. With our luck that’s also when the rain started to come down. Once the tickets are purchased there are two options: hike to the entrance or drive the rental car to the nearest parking lot. We opted for the latter. The palace is brightly colored and accented with tiles in certain areas. The exterior is more beautiful than the interior. The palace surrounds a large park that’s worth a stroll, if it isn’t raining cats and dogs. <br />
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Thus far a decent trip other than the rain. Obidos and northern coastal cities in the next post. </span></div>krishwalahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14268236809577851121noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2493381014412529077.post-72449679059571683582014-06-24T20:52:00.000+02:002014-06-27T20:05:07.048+02:00Prague <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span style="font-size: medium;">It’s convenient to be in the middle everything, geographically. Nürnberg isn’t a big city but thankfully there are enough trains/planes that depart from here to few destinations we are lucky. Prague is one city that is extremely close. There are trains but due to its proximity Deutsche Bahn has a bus trip for 19 euros/one way. The bus departs from the main railway station and arrives at Prague main station 3.5 hours later. Tickets can be booked at either stations but it’s highly recommended to book tickets in advance because prices increase. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBZlnC5hom6FcoLJRkHHar78Ip1-L8Fws0pvXqi4XsYSak-9GmcpEP5aD1CMcnBlgzmnU53nFQZVaUaQHctCuQ7i5zR71xjpfaHn6Zpu2rqPYBtn0fapTDLvATz3XFyf47BUc7giuAJx0m/s1600/IMG_9922.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 0em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBZlnC5hom6FcoLJRkHHar78Ip1-L8Fws0pvXqi4XsYSak-9GmcpEP5aD1CMcnBlgzmnU53nFQZVaUaQHctCuQ7i5zR71xjpfaHn6Zpu2rqPYBtn0fapTDLvATz3XFyf47BUc7giuAJx0m/s400/IMG_9922.JPG" height="400" width="265" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj92P2fIRrtJp5dJxwkRvoC6b3MdbpvBo7mtb4UIuWHtzbDcjoHyGAfhJQJTrg2OGpxw0BDybokcBq87gno8tWk8xnS7bjlvaVkKho5mudjoBPQR3SftyQGsLM_NF1uyjd9Vt58cEHa4HQ8/s1600/IMG_9951.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj92P2fIRrtJp5dJxwkRvoC6b3MdbpvBo7mtb4UIuWHtzbDcjoHyGAfhJQJTrg2OGpxw0BDybokcBq87gno8tWk8xnS7bjlvaVkKho5mudjoBPQR3SftyQGsLM_NF1uyjd9Vt58cEHa4HQ8/s400/IMG_9951.JPG" height="400" width="265" /></a></div><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD6aaRzjRHpmKqJwkUCWuhisP514JGy_F28FBpAT6guKcZvjujVze1DzLhyphenhyphen15l1Ly4lQ5nT57IHk-efQ1wO_IGzpQaLg_2K0hwjXD9XjTNZfsG1zZL0GH2ZWWACXqXxV-_AZ1IKplpGTBf/s1600/IMG_9973.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD6aaRzjRHpmKqJwkUCWuhisP514JGy_F28FBpAT6guKcZvjujVze1DzLhyphenhyphen15l1Ly4lQ5nT57IHk-efQ1wO_IGzpQaLg_2K0hwjXD9XjTNZfsG1zZL0GH2ZWWACXqXxV-_AZ1IKplpGTBf/s320/IMG_9973.JPG" /></a>I’ve been to Prague couple times and enjoyed each visit. The important sights include the main square with Astronomical clock, Jewish quarter, Charles Bridge, Monastery and Prague Castle. 2-3 day weekend is adequate but 4 days are ideal. If time permits, the communism museum is a must. My friend had it on her list of sights and I am glad because the museum is eye-opening. It documents life under the occupation (rejection of art and culture, secrecy from one’s family & neighbor) as well as the velvet revolution that stood up against and toppled the regime. Also, it's a tongue in cheek to the times. (Click on the photo to read the words) <br />
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The Jewish quarter has a synagogue, cemetery and Museum all worth a stroll. There is in depth history of the Jews forced to live in this small area enclosed in the city, ghetto, during Nazi time. Although many Czechs were anti- Nazi beliefs, they were voiceless. Franz Kafka (novelist) was born in the city to Jewish parents and therefore has monuments throughout the area. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOKiw3p9Pl8-TXvO9ZDO1f0rnpemlp4Mxxn40Dudmct064MGonnZErKQ1TMBHS47J5iHrub71vDZ4JnVHdMepTMobKgDBVPEzR4vbgQPUSFG81WUVCzHJSa1sWVs2VL-jqE8kYk82HLPcP/s1600/IMG_5733.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOKiw3p9Pl8-TXvO9ZDO1f0rnpemlp4Mxxn40Dudmct064MGonnZErKQ1TMBHS47J5iHrub71vDZ4JnVHdMepTMobKgDBVPEzR4vbgQPUSFG81WUVCzHJSa1sWVs2VL-jqE8kYk82HLPcP/s400/IMG_5733.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>Klasterni Pivovar Strahov is a brewery in a monastery and has restaurant with food. The monastery is a steep (and scenic) hike but you will be rewarded with appetizing beer and food. Close to the Strahov is the Castle, residence of the President, and St. Vitus Cathedral. There are sights in and around the castle so plan to spend an afternoon in the area. (Pair it with the Monastery because it’s nearby.) Getting a tour guide for the castle sights is crucial to understand the church and castle’s history. We also toured other sights (Charles bridge, Jewish quarter) with a tour guide which was helpful. She explained the area known as Czech Republic has experienced many changes (including a revolution) and with it came sleuth of names (Czechoslovakia, Czecho-Slovak Republic and etc) for the country. <br />
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Another memorable meal was at Lokal. Unlike many Europeans restaurants Lokal is large and spacious. And even with its size and many tables, reservations are a must. Amongst the locals Lokal is a favorite and it’s become a favorite for the tourists too. Rightfully so, Lokal serves authentic Czech food with simplicity. The food reminisces of grandma’s cooking and the food isn’t fussy. This is the first place I tried beef, beef tartare at that. (Who eats beef tartare as their first beef experience? I do!) It came with raw garlic cloves to rub on the grilled bread. I don’t have anything to compare the tartare to but my friend and I agreed it was outstanding. Tartare is very common on Czech restaurant menus and freshness of the meat is important for health safety so ensure the restaurant and the tartare gets high reviews (from the locals). We ordered other food that was also excellent. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm61AkIeuFy0tP1JtgGGH3sOjTLeuSmZz7rXQeyXuwMNmF-3lBsgcES0fP91CyHfR8_iP6gAlRQ1y8_xcjs-DqcfFhijbkD9ier6IugP6s_dcN10lCSXq99b39aIcV8g5WusLc1-2q5KCe/s1600/IMG_9958.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 0em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm61AkIeuFy0tP1JtgGGH3sOjTLeuSmZz7rXQeyXuwMNmF-3lBsgcES0fP91CyHfR8_iP6gAlRQ1y8_xcjs-DqcfFhijbkD9ier6IugP6s_dcN10lCSXq99b39aIcV8g5WusLc1-2q5KCe/s400/IMG_9958.JPG" height="133" width="200" /></a> Amongst the Germans and visiting Americans, Prague is known as the party town. There are many bars and clubs for the night crowd. Beer is cheap and good, surprisingly. U Zlatého Tygra is one beer house to drink with the locals. It’s small and always full of people for fun and chatter. Smoking is permitted indoors so that can be annoying but few beers won’t hurt and you may even make friends.<br />
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The city has dependable public transportation with trams, buses and trains that cover the city extensively. On the first day we’d bought the 24 hour pass. The next day when we were on a tram to get to dinner, we were stopped and checked for tickets. The checker asked for our tickets and told us to get off with him at the next stop. (We knew our ticket had expired and we were planning to renew near the restaurant.) As soon as the tram departed, the checker and his “partner” asked us few questions. Do you know your ticket is expired? Yes but we were planning to buy at the next stop. Do you have your passport? No. How much money do you have? (the husband and I gave each other a look). We have 40 euros. How much money do you really have, he asked? The husband lied again and said 40 euros. He pulled out 40 euros from his pocket and showed him. Clearly, not happy with this answer he said something to his partner in Czech. Then his partner proceeded to call the “head office” we think. This is when the checker told him to stop calling and hang up. He said he’d take the 40 in exchange for fine/penalty. We gave him the money and parted ways. <br />
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We will never forget this because of the sketchiness. Here are few things to know, the checker was a bum-looking character with missing teeth, someone we wouldn’t identify as a ticket checker. His partner had a neon vest making them legitimate. Asking how much money we had was a clue that bribing is common with legal officials and tourists. Germans rent cheap cars to drive to Prague because they say there are break-ins, theft and crime is high. This experience clarifies why that is. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivLBLcps6QsbW9yX81RGZMHPrLJ8rlpOs3MigNXgpPpRhV3OO0eIVNJAAjIjUBsVVW5SuZsQYmYPnxyOgdxZsRqzDPO2Yv-7V9pWeC35ht4VnL92KJARYCTrix4StYfmcqKohOZ9X-e93Y/s1600/IMG_9812.JPG" imageanchor="0"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivLBLcps6QsbW9yX81RGZMHPrLJ8rlpOs3MigNXgpPpRhV3OO0eIVNJAAjIjUBsVVW5SuZsQYmYPnxyOgdxZsRqzDPO2Yv-7V9pWeC35ht4VnL92KJARYCTrix4StYfmcqKohOZ9X-e93Y/s400/IMG_9812.JPG" height="320" width="202" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj74GIxnzPBXhgprq4O3Nag1dwrrCSdJetD8FMyx2UcEfmEqTkmKLi5dJ5KbeYrXk_6D1OVqPBmI1QmbQSKr0JA6Tpzm4Fx29YIU9cEcZAqE8axOEdjSB9PvECUS1_RSh3WcqqQOVYWecrQ/s1600/IMG_5634.JPG" imageanchor="0"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj74GIxnzPBXhgprq4O3Nag1dwrrCSdJetD8FMyx2UcEfmEqTkmKLi5dJ5KbeYrXk_6D1OVqPBmI1QmbQSKr0JA6Tpzm4Fx29YIU9cEcZAqE8axOEdjSB9PvECUS1_RSh3WcqqQOVYWecrQ/s400/IMG_5634.JPG" height="320" width="202" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6WTh_b9wG2EiyxoffO0hj_r3OnrDy22RAekjVGM5hIzUcm1U9zYpDNBXiecCSHaKzXh5lCBcX9KqpXYsJtKeXdtZw9ssrq7NBJuNdtjG8Jpkr5RrX1mQGx7iqy7sh6ByaOaVPK7MS1Tw2/s1600/IMG_5636.JPG" imageanchor="0"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6WTh_b9wG2EiyxoffO0hj_r3OnrDy22RAekjVGM5hIzUcm1U9zYpDNBXiecCSHaKzXh5lCBcX9KqpXYsJtKeXdtZw9ssrq7NBJuNdtjG8Jpkr5RrX1mQGx7iqy7sh6ByaOaVPK7MS1Tw2/s400/IMG_5636.JPG" height="320" width="202" /></a><br />
To return home on the last day we arrived at the main train station 30 minutes before the scheduled departure. 5- 10 minutes before departure we learned our bus was delayed in border patrol issues and would arrive as soon as possible. We learned Deutsche Bahn was working on getting a Czech bus to drive the passengers to Nürnberg. In the meantime there were more passengers than before, departing on a later bus. A Deutsche Bahn bus finally arrived and we all lined up. We (the initial group) were told we can’t board because this bus is for the later departure. Confused and shocked, we protested why? The driver repeated this is for later departure therefore the passengers scheduled are only allowed; he proclaimed these are the German rules. The husband says rules don’t matter when there’s a missing bus and if there are available seats the (initial group) should be allowed to board. Minutes before leaving the initial group was confirmed to board by the driver. We have no idea what happened to our original Deutsche Bahn or Czech bus. <br />
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A note of traveling to the east from Germany, always have passport on hand. I have been checked for passport on each trip. (Keep the passport nearby and don’t give it to anyone that asks for it, especially a toothless ticket checker.) <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmlaBBn8ANNHzAZhRZp4KBzlwMv7E0xZ2ZDg1beu2OmSzyRp4ClCombv-KchvXTbUiRH3HaCZOScoP80RhPxXA37BWtgF7VVEf_uQd0NbOayFRp1ZHA54jUygAxaCSCBG5GgjXSSRrt9Ea/s1600/IMG_9897.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmlaBBn8ANNHzAZhRZp4KBzlwMv7E0xZ2ZDg1beu2OmSzyRp4ClCombv-KchvXTbUiRH3HaCZOScoP80RhPxXA37BWtgF7VVEf_uQd0NbOayFRp1ZHA54jUygAxaCSCBG5GgjXSSRrt9Ea/s640/IMG_9897.JPG" /></a></div></div></span>krishwalahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14268236809577851121noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2493381014412529077.post-76813954068929279632014-06-22T23:52:00.001+02:002014-06-30T11:42:18.352+02:00Greece<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span style="font-size: medium;">Greece was planned around the same time as <a href="http://porkbierbelly.blogspot.de/2014/06/sardinia-or-sardegna.html" target="_blank">Sardinia</a>. Why two trips in short period? As of April, we’ve learned of some developments that will affect us and our lives after July. June marks our 3 years in Germany and an end for the husband’s delegation. He started looking for new jobs last September but nothing firmed up until April. Details aside he was offered an opportunity in the US in April and our move is coming up. When he received the verbal offer, we planned both. Greece was high on his list due to the history, ruins, and geography (for me, the food!). <br />
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This is a long post, so have your <strike>coffee</strike>, <strike>wine</strike>, ouzo in hand. <br />
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The flight options were 3am or 6am departure and of course I chose the ungodly hour of 3am. He tried to get some sleep that night and I stayed up, like a mad person. With a flight and a transfer we arrived in Athens at 10am. The first stop was lunch, although not at 10! <br />
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Paradosiako is in an unassuming neighborhood and popular with the locals. Unfortunately the locals don’t arrive until 1pm, for lunch, and we were early! At 12:30 the host offered us to stay but clarified she had few dishes that were ready; the chefs and freshly made foods would be ready after 1. Lesson learned Greeks (like the Spaniards and Italians) eat lunch after 1. She recommended Stifado (braised beef) with potatoes and stuffed zucchini flowers. Beef was falling off the bone and delightful. The potatoes were mashed. Zucchini flowers were filled with rice and dill. I believe the flowers were boiled in water briefly while the rice and dill cooked separately then the flowers were filled and pan fried. Although we’ve both eaten zucchini flowers (mostly unfilled but few times filled with ricotta cheese and fried), these were surprisingly delicious. One of us still had a little room for something else so we ordered grilled calamari. It came flavored with salt, pepper, olive oil and oregano. We agreed it was the best grilled calamari ever because it tasted like coconut meat. I would’ve never described perfectly grilled calamari as coconut meat but it was that good. Lunch at Paradosiako was relaxed and homey tasting. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfgN2-Oe3l8lkbnDyj__pFteham_0ysA-CtGb3Ef8OOBCm1P4gZHikexL8hshe8xOKhPgPJ9PXKea-Z6seuQWHn2svRwtvf9qM3bgRZqRmJ56-mScwHM9ccBmADRT2nov_zaYyxUGmu0Ey/s1600/IMG_6910.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfgN2-Oe3l8lkbnDyj__pFteham_0ysA-CtGb3Ef8OOBCm1P4gZHikexL8hshe8xOKhPgPJ9PXKea-Z6seuQWHn2svRwtvf9qM3bgRZqRmJ56-mScwHM9ccBmADRT2nov_zaYyxUGmu0Ey/s1600/IMG_6910.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>Due to lack of sleep we went back to the hotel for a nap. Post nap, we’d planned to walk around the city and browse the city sights however we ran into a walking tour group in front of the Acropolis gates. Thankfully we were able to join the group that was starting when we arrived. We had a guide named George who showed us few city sights by foot. We enjoy these because it’s a great way to get a glimpse of a city. And thankfully George is an archaeologist and very knowledgeable, making this a successful walking tour! <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbMP9DdbtigmXL8U2YgPYkInge1UFtFBeFslJsJJ8RSxzEHG5zOG1qUz7aK_oc17zUIX5-zRIWkrYtRcGdW1duYI5AdFtAR0cwey9XQpxIg4znSm-AJFy5mv9xYNr9Gzugxn4op4nR5y-z/s1600/IMG_6966.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbMP9DdbtigmXL8U2YgPYkInge1UFtFBeFslJsJJ8RSxzEHG5zOG1qUz7aK_oc17zUIX5-zRIWkrYtRcGdW1duYI5AdFtAR0cwey9XQpxIg4znSm-AJFy5mv9xYNr9Gzugxn4op4nR5y-z/s1600/IMG_6966.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a> <br />
For dinner we ventured out to Piraeus by train, port of Athens. This is one of the ports many ferries depart for the islands. I had few restaurants on the list in the area and Kapetanios won because of its proximity to the train station. There’s a bus that goes to the restaurant but we didn’t know which bus so we walked. It’s a long walk so before going, find out the bus number. The restaurant is tucked away on a side street and hard to find without a GPS. The menu is simple- fresh fish caught that morning along with some mezze (starters or side dishes). Each table picks their fish of choice and orders few accompaniments. The options for that day were red snapper, bourbani (red mullet), sea bream, shrimp, and octopus. We picked sea bream; the man helping us suggested the best one (for size) to share. We also ordered greek salad, fava (bean) puree and house wine. The puree arrived, topped with olive oil, diced white onions and parsley and bread on the house. The bread (served on the house) is grilled and topped with olive oil and spices, nice touch. The fava was creamy, smooth and tasted like green fava beans. We devoured it, fast. Then came the greek salad with tomatoes, green peppers, cucumbers, onions and olives sitting under a piece of feta, all dressed with olive oil and lemon vinaigrette. The salad was a large portion, good to share and satisfying. And finally the sea bream. Grilled, seasoned with salt, served with lemons, and olive oil vinaigrette. We had never tasted sea bream before, the fish was grilled perfectly and meaty in texture; outstanding. Word of caution to the faint of heart, Greek fish are served whole with head and bones. That’s the best way to serve because have you eaten those fish cheeks? <br />
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For dessert, ice cream is served, on the house, a practice for many restaurants post meal. Kapetanios is a family owned, out of the way and probably rarely sees tourists; I am thankful because they offer friendly service and food that shines in its simplicity. <br />
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The next day we toured inside the sights: Acropolis, Ancient Agora, Archaeological Museum and Acropolis Museum. Prior to the trip we’d downloaded Rick Steves’ guides. We didn’t use his guide for the city tour because of previous night’s walk. For Acropolis, Ancient Agora and Archaeological Museum, Rick was so helpful. We are on first name basis. We really enjoyed his guides (in <a href="http://porkbierbelly.blogspot.de/2014/03/paris.html" target="_blank">Paris</a> also) because they’re informative and entertaining. Without the guide it would be a tour of bunch of rocks and ruins, not exciting. The Archaeological museum has thousands of pieces and without a guide it would be overwhelming; Rick and his audio partner cover the key pieces in the museum. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqcOFF7cB8U6S5cQZ24OhWxrv0BTaycpBjjkPcdj2XO12uttgGDHgmBHizPPIxH5YY0OMN_VhVqIxoByPrWaTt0oHyUiC54qbb0OJzl7NQOXLza1kMdPwRrjY2DkCO4Ea2rp6xImd29rVg/s1600/IMG_6950.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 0em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqcOFF7cB8U6S5cQZ24OhWxrv0BTaycpBjjkPcdj2XO12uttgGDHgmBHizPPIxH5YY0OMN_VhVqIxoByPrWaTt0oHyUiC54qbb0OJzl7NQOXLza1kMdPwRrjY2DkCO4Ea2rp6xImd29rVg/s1600/IMG_6950.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjd4VH19DsJ8pmHtwQ6Tk_9TCbIu-vZZyDw6hKssMuLVl4jSzyOiIQn9jW5ALdUy3d7mR5oopKCJ4hwGt69tSiQnfw3DM6WgrE9Y4IIymDIR6E0NpYFgAMvV_DIRu9Dyw_PvVebItcJBSb/s1600/IMG_6939.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 0em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjd4VH19DsJ8pmHtwQ6Tk_9TCbIu-vZZyDw6hKssMuLVl4jSzyOiIQn9jW5ALdUy3d7mR5oopKCJ4hwGt69tSiQnfw3DM6WgrE9Y4IIymDIR6E0NpYFgAMvV_DIRu9Dyw_PvVebItcJBSb/s1600/IMG_6939.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></span></span></span></div><br />
Amidst the sights we found a short window for lunch at Kostas. It’s a classic souvlaki joint that’s been around long time and offers couple items: souvlaki, kalamaki (souvlaki served without pita) and few Greek beers rounds out the menu. We ordered two and two beers. The location is small with few bar stools inside and 2 benches on the sidewalk. Arriving early enough, 1 to snatch a bench outside is key because at 1:30 they had a long line. The pork souvlaki is marinated and grilled to order, served in a pita with tomato, onion, parsley and tasty tzatziki. Kostas is small and can be overlooked but the people behind the counter are professionals in souvlaki making and serve great food. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjca9tMS6mXXw_KCQRN8MWGIxLnzjOfEbWOvDoG0uLcD4lMLXnguQgBOB_yRC4brr2MnQU4qacwnL2Is1239sMJK5kSKee0kQXVU88lX0YDQcFbnti_V5nN-FuCqI7idbZNNnCcVKQXMaM1/s1600/IMG_6992.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjca9tMS6mXXw_KCQRN8MWGIxLnzjOfEbWOvDoG0uLcD4lMLXnguQgBOB_yRC4brr2MnQU4qacwnL2Is1239sMJK5kSKee0kQXVU88lX0YDQcFbnti_V5nN-FuCqI7idbZNNnCcVKQXMaM1/s1600/IMG_6992.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></span></span></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;">I had more restaurants to try in Athens and a short 2 day stay wasn’t enough to cover them all so my solution was to visit two places for one meal. Our dinner was at To Steki tou Illia. Steki is known for one thing and one thing only, lamb chops. The guests order by the grams; we ordered 300 grams along with a side of tzatziki and horta (wild greens). The chops are thinly sliced, grilled, seasoned with salt, pepper and oregano and swimming in olive oil. They were grilled to correct doneness and delectable; since the chops are fatty, the juices are evenly distributed in the meat. Tzatziki was made with yogurt, garlic and cucumber with 2:1:1 ratio, respectively. Garlicky and cucumbery and very, very good. Horta, wild greens, sautéed in olive oil, served at room temperature were fine but undersalted and not memorable. If you want lamb chops, Steki is a must. <br />
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Then onto the second dinner at Oineas. Upon the server’s recommendation I ordered moussaka and the husband ordered stockfish with skordalia. We shared a Greek salad. The salad had sweet tomatoes with peppers, cucumbers, olives, feta and an addition of capers, fresh oregano leaves. The salad was appetizing however I believe capers didn’t add to or subtract from the dish. The oregano leaves were whole and overpowering for the vegetables. The moussaka was bad because it tasted premade; the meat was dry and lacked sauce, the top was gelatinous and weird consistency, and the key component of moussaka, eggplant, was scarce. Surprisingly the husband thought the moussaka was good. The stockfish was battered and fried. It tasted (previously) frozen and the batter was standard. The skordalia wasn’t better. The on house dessert was fresh fruits, redeeming but not much. This is a surprise because Oineas is highly rated online. I believe it’s enjoying the ‘oldest restaurant wave’ and serving average food; the husband is nicer and thinks they had a bad night. <br />
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Navigating Athens metro is easy and recommended (over taxi) because tickets are inexpensive; 4 euros/person for day tickets. The trains look like NYC subway trains. Most importantly they are punctual. <br />
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With a planned schedule, 2 whole days in Athens is plenty of time. Even though we didn’t visit various Athens’ neighborhoods, we were satisfied with our time. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8KV44x7IW1bBKZR1Euupy_OdlydsmRvGFbCxCw7mU5V7RZe8VBIvgfmoSz47bgp5n2NHXsOKK7plCwsswTm16iG8Vi5fm9u_6hcQbZCSLbxSqWtQAIRQDz5ruVeLnDY6Ajo5teUopzbyW/s1600/IMG_7015.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8KV44x7IW1bBKZR1Euupy_OdlydsmRvGFbCxCw7mU5V7RZe8VBIvgfmoSz47bgp5n2NHXsOKK7plCwsswTm16iG8Vi5fm9u_6hcQbZCSLbxSqWtQAIRQDz5ruVeLnDY6Ajo5teUopzbyW/s640/IMG_7015.JPG" /></a><br />
The next morning we traveled by train to Piraeus Port and boarded our 7:40 ferry. Our stop was to the island of Naxos. We arrived at 11:40 because the ferry was delayed due to long weekend. On the boat, the food options are minimal sandwiches and drinks. It was peak lunch time, in our bellies, so we stopped in Kali Kardia in the port city of Hora (Chora, Naxos city). I’d found the place from a search of goat meat in Naxos and read rave reviews. It is situated on a strip of tourist trap restaurants. The host suggested organic chicken and lamb from the family farm. I asked about goat and he didn’t have any that day but repeated all the available meat was organic from the farm. I wondered if organic and farm were buzz words to attract tourists? We ordered Greek salad, sea bream and later grilled sardines. The salad was light and the sea bream was grilled nicely. However it didn’t taste as incredible as at Kapetanios. I did not care for the grilled sardines because they tasted bitter or off while the husband on found them to be fine. They served coconut cake on the house. The cake was divine and more than made up for the off tasting sardines. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifK2CjZV8GFktNyfpmmC8l48jyFqN6kmnGVfnJkFqPwwgQsqT0pqD_R9F_rStraWvnr3Pr7eadmWamcx_ygzaZiD5eUF6hwelSzUtsblEpqsZ8bgaKKoWndebi0lKnURzLXa90qwF10VxI/s1600/2014-06-08+12.09.17.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifK2CjZV8GFktNyfpmmC8l48jyFqN6kmnGVfnJkFqPwwgQsqT0pqD_R9F_rStraWvnr3Pr7eadmWamcx_ygzaZiD5eUF6hwelSzUtsblEpqsZ8bgaKKoWndebi0lKnURzLXa90qwF10VxI/s400/2014-06-08+12.09.17.jpg" /></a></span></span></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: medium;">To get to Katerina Hotel in Agios Prokopios from Hora we rented a scooter. The distance is 6 kilometers and on the scooter it is 20 minute ride. The scenery is surreal as the road parallels the sea. The hotel is in prime location, minutes from the shore. It’s called a hotel but designed like an apartment with each room equipped with a kitchenette and adjoining balcony. The hosts are a young couple that is helpful and sweet; they have a small baby and live in the apartment suite above the reception. <br />
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We attempted a soak in the water and didn’t last long due to cool water temperature. I was jealous of those people that were able to stay in so we attempted one more time without luck. Instead we sat and read on the beach chairs. (European beaches offer beach chairs and umbrellas, at an average (5 euros/chair) price.) <br />
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That night we drove to Gorgona Restaurant in Agia Anna which is family owned. Most of the prepared foods are in the deli case including a large variety of dips (hummus, eggplant salad), casseroles (moussaka, pastisio), and sides (horta, cucumber salad). There are raw meats (lamb, pork, burgers, sausages) and fishes that can be selected to grilled to order. We ordered tzatziki, eggplant salad, lamb souvlaki, and moussaka. The moussaka was exactly how I expected eggplant/meat casserole dish to taste, traditional and comforting. The tomato sauce was cooked with the meat enhancing the flavor. Both the eggplant salad, like a dip of mashed eggplant with peppers and carrots, creamy in taste and tzatziki (garlicky and homemade) were close seconds. The lamb souvlaki was served with fries and also good. For food made by Yia-Yia (Greek grandma), this is the place to go. And watching the sunset is an added bonus.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8uDfFd8DM1lIRYo-WwWOkl12hb6amKknliQTDtwm2X7oGej1cVAgQGai-RB2VVFYs5mXvgbwMjufN9EJYAyO9ZMl5WH86EKaukCIQzlyXSCI2mczRPDFkxI8bXGmIgfjics_vpIPBFbZV/s1600/IMG_7034.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8uDfFd8DM1lIRYo-WwWOkl12hb6amKknliQTDtwm2X7oGej1cVAgQGai-RB2VVFYs5mXvgbwMjufN9EJYAyO9ZMl5WH86EKaukCIQzlyXSCI2mczRPDFkxI8bXGmIgfjics_vpIPBFbZV/s400/IMG_7034.JPG" /></a></div>The next day we drove inland to Hailki (Chalki, Khalki) through the hilly mountains of Naxos. The village is small with few shops and restaurants. The textile shops are worth a stop and a splurge if you’re in the mood. The village was mentioned in <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2014/03/09/travel/peeling-back-the-layers-of-naxos-greece.html">NYtimes</a> in March yielding a bump in tourism. Driving through the area was an enjoyable experience. The land is arid with bushes of olive trees all around while herds of sheep and goats graze the land. The scenery is charming with small towns dotted with blue roofs and doors. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3ofPGFjWeqULZnaRFoLbIKONgvO59xk6S0wLVwbscHd3krjdmQt37kaVkHLkiqr5AZpWmKZJtVduJ7NDbVzrc4p-LsoUQNxxKZMHz4iECyLGQd_N_lD7Z6wBCYVl_hUPr_GNScE6BgImy/s1600/2014-06-07+13.59.52.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3ofPGFjWeqULZnaRFoLbIKONgvO59xk6S0wLVwbscHd3krjdmQt37kaVkHLkiqr5AZpWmKZJtVduJ7NDbVzrc4p-LsoUQNxxKZMHz4iECyLGQd_N_lD7Z6wBCYVl_hUPr_GNScE6BgImy/s1600/2014-06-07+13.59.52.jpg" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>Then we headed to Alyko Beach for lunch and to catch some waves. But first lunch! (you see how most of our travels revolve around meals?) As a eatery on my list I had Faros Restaurant near the beach. Thankfully we were lucky to find it on the main road from Halki. With few tables taken by tourists, we reviewed the daily menu and sat down. There is a regular menu and daily specials board. We ordered eggplant saganaki, baked butter beans and goat in parchment. Goat in parchment, what?, said both of us. (Wasn’t fish the only thing that can be cooked in parchment I wondered.) We love goat so when we saw it, it was a must. The menu clearly states few items are fresh while few are frozen. i.e. goat is fresh while the lamb, rabbit and squid are frozen. This is the type of place I appreciate because of their full disclosure and honesty. The saganaki was eggplant baked in tomato sauce and topped with a cheese that was salty, melty and yummy. (<a href="http://www.kalofagas.ca/2010/10/02/flaming-cheese-saganaki/">Kalofagas </a>tells me it was Kefalograviera- yum!) The beans were slow braised in tomato sauce and dill. The goat was falling off the bone tender and served with oven fried potatoes. Sadly goat lacked salt, herbs or spices but the potatoes were cooked in olive oil, oregano and crispy on the outside. We are biased towards Faros for its view and overall food even though the goat could’ve been better. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFWfBKZDqKXsnahGDn72WDO9wXAanH8kKxpfJQpUxY96-RhflyHeJOH7s2fqWAjxS70ZdIuRJfRGpXBqA1Ipo-NnzgKFDKwIQgBuNlkBECWeo5bO89Gdh4492d2DoGmdBSpSDJu1dHVZcN/s1600/IMG_7067.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFWfBKZDqKXsnahGDn72WDO9wXAanH8kKxpfJQpUxY96-RhflyHeJOH7s2fqWAjxS70ZdIuRJfRGpXBqA1Ipo-NnzgKFDKwIQgBuNlkBECWeo5bO89Gdh4492d2DoGmdBSpSDJu1dHVZcN/s400/IMG_7067.JPG" /></a></div>We asked the server about the beach, sandy or pebbly, beach chairs and umbrellas and she smiled. She said the beach at Alyko is pebbly and doesn’t offer beach chairs for relaxing. What a disappointment because the water was a gorgeous turquoise blue and tempting for a swim. A few hours at the beach near our hotel with a book and a dip in water we were content. The water in July, we presume, is warmer and swimmable. In June we both had goose bumps going in and when we were inside the water. It’s a risk that I wanted to take because I couldn’t resist swimming in clear water. <br />
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That evening’s dinner was at Elliniko in Hora. It’s an organic restaurant that sources locally when possible. Score! It is highly rated on the internet guides so I’d recommend making reservations for a table. Like Gorgona, they have a deli case with daily specials as well as meats and fish cooked to order. We ordered stuffed peppers, Dorado (fish), Naxos sausage and Lamb chop. The banana peppers were stuffed with cheese, served with tomato sauce and unique in taste. The handpicked (by husband) Dorado was grilled and served with olive oil sauce, boiled potatoes and Greek ratatouille (eggplant, zucchini slow cooked in tomato sauce). The fish was fresh and the sauce was a great accompaniment. The sausage and chops had the same sides. The sausage was full of herbs and spices, memorable while the chops were okay. The boiled potatoes balanced the slightly salty ratatouille.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ93wRS6N180lstpCk6OuQiE9OXyxghPyCaFBwxVyICYcHhh-RKILtWu-V4N3Ztv_75iG9TN2D7hu8ffjJ4UCfM4UBXaSEqv8xK_HAygj6WGuLQL-C2QM6EEzFr5u3LR0nqjkm7B3ETIPN/s1600/IMG_7051.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ93wRS6N180lstpCk6OuQiE9OXyxghPyCaFBwxVyICYcHhh-RKILtWu-V4N3Ztv_75iG9TN2D7hu8ffjJ4UCfM4UBXaSEqv8xK_HAygj6WGuLQL-C2QM6EEzFr5u3LR0nqjkm7B3ETIPN/s400/IMG_7051.JPG" /></a></div>Naxos is the largest island in Cyclades in Aegean Sea. It is quieter of the islands because its economy doesn’t rely on mass tourism. (Mykonos is known for the parties!) It is also the most self sustaining with agricultural products so the Naxans aren’t worried about minimal tourism. The island and its villages are small enough to enjoy good food and relaxation away from the tourists. <br />
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We needed it because the next morning our ferry departed for Santorini. Albeit delayed we finally arrived an hour later than planned. Arriving to the island, the layers of rock formation the island is built on is visible and breathtaking. Santorini’s age is visible from the layers of rocks. <br />
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The port is on the coast at the bottom of the mountain while the major towns are atop. The terrain is rocky due to the volcanic eruption that formed the island. Driving from the port (there isn’t anything to see or do here, except tourist trap restaurants and bike/car rental companies) to Fira is a curvy, careful maneuver and not for all. Climbing with a motorcycle would be a challenge and discouraged. Local bus services offer tourists an alternative to the upper mainland. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_COf_CvBDYAPgNS3ZKSMmrsOdkl8CkHCJugjJCm6w_tmgYCYZt895fkVGzREs9-4Q2Z6seYlbOeOkZmMeAsVh_rYO0P-KmdZRFxVZwRmysX38vP8h9vbCUg6acQV_JfAcN7Vk9rWHwxAf/s1600/IMG_7088.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_COf_CvBDYAPgNS3ZKSMmrsOdkl8CkHCJugjJCm6w_tmgYCYZt895fkVGzREs9-4Q2Z6seYlbOeOkZmMeAsVh_rYO0P-KmdZRFxVZwRmysX38vP8h9vbCUg6acQV_JfAcN7Vk9rWHwxAf/s640/IMG_7088.JPG" /></a><br />
We stopped in Fira for lunch at Lucky’s before heading to our hotel near Oia (northern coast). Lucky’s is a souvlaki joint that makes, souvlaki, falafel and gyros. The owner is welcoming and funny. He suggested I order a falafel while the husband got the gyro (meat cooked on a rotating spit). Both are filled in a pita with lettuce, onion, tomato, yogurt sauce, and fries. We were impressed with the taste of each and therefore ordered a chicken souvlaki. The chicken was tender because it was marinated in olive oil/lemon juice but wasn’t as tasty as the gyro. For a quick lunch stop, Lucky’s is great. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHIeIYkOmeWTy6Yqj-UGD-Y-HY64Q6U9IyJwNNePcEYmvJuGhCdhWhfEsQ3Jylhih0nbUdvnrVVP2NaRbeAX_d0NAp6zl_mY2r1w92El-3bYR67Q9CeDd-u91YJPcZwLWhTLynKvTFiwZk/s1600/IMG_7103.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHIeIYkOmeWTy6Yqj-UGD-Y-HY64Q6U9IyJwNNePcEYmvJuGhCdhWhfEsQ3Jylhih0nbUdvnrVVP2NaRbeAX_d0NAp6zl_mY2r1w92El-3bYR67Q9CeDd-u91YJPcZwLWhTLynKvTFiwZk/s640/IMG_7103.JPG" /></a></div>Oia is recommended by all guidebooks, travel agents and internet sites because it is on the northwestern coastal hillside with terraced homes, blue dome rooftops, churches and sea in the background. The sunset in Oia is priceless. This makes Oia a hotbed for tourist bugs, like us. It is one of the most visited islands and has throngs of tourists everywhere. Sightseeing in Oia was taxing. (The parking lot behind the bus stop in Oia is good to get a quieter seat for the sunset.) <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGXvfNDTu45-lFRTyAM17_ZxQx7cvkL3ctdhC2tfyGzHzWiSIcGSqGbEy1FM9NKNiddYuuFY_e0Jui3EL3KIijX6S0WW-qVW5F_vwPylmcDmpn_uaX_vlHstiEpe_lo-D63xqIYIFPr8Nr/s1600/IMG_7097.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGXvfNDTu45-lFRTyAM17_ZxQx7cvkL3ctdhC2tfyGzHzWiSIcGSqGbEy1FM9NKNiddYuuFY_e0Jui3EL3KIijX6S0WW-qVW5F_vwPylmcDmpn_uaX_vlHstiEpe_lo-D63xqIYIFPr8Nr/s320/IMG_7097.JPG" /></a></div>We reserved dinner at Roka because Sunday nights are peak for locals going out. (It is hard to find Roka if you’re not looking for it so follow the signs.) When we arrived at 8:45, the entire restaurant was full. We were having a hard time deciding between the seafood so the server said octopus and squid are always frozen so if you want fresh seafood/fish, get mussels, sardines and catch of the day. Good tip! We ordered fava, Greek salad, baked sardines, and mussels. The flavor for fava was spot on; I was disappointed in its pureed (over blended) texture. The salad was very good with sweet, local tomatoes and a creamier rather than crumbly feta. If the Greek salad with few ingredients is this good in Greece, why isn’t it elsewhere? Oh right, because the importance of fresh ingredients is under appreciated. Both the mussels (cooked in tomato/chicken broth) and sardines were pleasant. Roka offers great food and service. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirx1PYpxhyphenhyphenSj5VLmWMQOe27WfpPeTOTivfmTdW8dMY8AMJamw4AfcF48k2dR5HKNALEOzydaXYypyRY_qQzx2iCWocur5XZAZF1auQcsbxlo5V6F1GVX3rBzVyCGSj3YGcggLNy5Fnb1Gw/s1600/IMG_7133.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirx1PYpxhyphenhyphenSj5VLmWMQOe27WfpPeTOTivfmTdW8dMY8AMJamw4AfcF48k2dR5HKNALEOzydaXYypyRY_qQzx2iCWocur5XZAZF1auQcsbxlo5V6F1GVX3rBzVyCGSj3YGcggLNy5Fnb1Gw/s640/IMG_7133.JPG" /></a></div>We headed to Megalochori for wine tasting; we learned Santorini wine is getting media press thus the revival of wineries. We wandered through the old town with short walls and locked doors. We ended up at Gavalas winery for a tasting. The tour and tasting are informative and worth visiting. The Assyrtiko grapes have been in Santorini since byzantine, documented, times. <br />
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We traveled to the southern tip of Santorini; the distance is relatively close because the entire island isn’t big. There’s a lighthouse that overlooks the sea and a man that was selling cherries. His marketing line was “Cherry, very good. Cherry, very good.” It was comical but we felt bad he was out in the heat trying to make money so we bought his very good cherries. On our way to one of the beaches we saw Giorgaros Restaurant, one on my list. It’s 100 meters from the lighthouse, overlooking the sea and a church. We ordered two fishes from the catch of the day (they take you to the fridge with containers of freshly caught fish); one of them was rock fish. Also, Greek salad and tomato keftedes. The salad was typical but the tomato keftedes were good. The taste was of fermented batter, unlike a tomato fritter I’ve ever tasted; the fritters were a little greasy but the flavor was good enough to overlook the greasiness. The fish were the best choice we made; simply seasoned, grilled and superb. The servers are the daughters of the parents that work in the kitchen and the dad (or an uncle) fish in the morning. For fresh fish, this is the place to go. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS3g2WFzlZoWx5oLxGizfptAxFQJOpsPYrVyK1dovmK4SQjQYcom4LpI8IzYibLs9qqanut13XBtsVoFLU5ybTE8KJ5LaqcZvwU4xZtwZNzTxNB7fKW2mV-eo4Nsk53o_20AtUPFLYhYd-/s1600/IMG_7173.JPG" imageanchor="0" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS3g2WFzlZoWx5oLxGizfptAxFQJOpsPYrVyK1dovmK4SQjQYcom4LpI8IzYibLs9qqanut13XBtsVoFLU5ybTE8KJ5LaqcZvwU4xZtwZNzTxNB7fKW2mV-eo4Nsk53o_20AtUPFLYhYd-/s400/IMG_7173.JPG" /></a>Santorini beaches vary from red beach to black sand beach; both pebbly yet have clear waters for swimming. The actual beach at Red beach is difficult to get to with few hills and climbs. Perissa has volcanic sand and long shoreline for beach enthusiasts. The water temperature was cool so we stayed on the chairs with our books. Since it was a holiday, many locals were at the beach with the families, a welcome change from Oia. <br />
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Our ferry, Helenic Seaways, to the last destination departed that evening. The ferry was timely and quicker in speed. It arrived on time and departed promptly. And the coolest thing was driving so fast and leaving other ferries behind, in the sea-dust. We arrived in Heraklion, Crete and rented our last car of the trip. Our stay in Agia Pelagia was 30 minutes from the port city. Agia Pelagia is a coastal village built into the Cliffside. There are many restaurants, apartments, hotels there and Diana Apartments is one of them. Each room is set up with a balcony and kitchenette. Our room had a larger than normal twin bed and another twin bed. The view from the balcony is unforgettable. The bed and shower however are forgettable, unfortunately. The bed was uncomfortable and the water from the shower felt like water sprinkler. Diana Apartments’ view of the sea trumps the two negative features. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAP76bui4fNEnmNSU2vmwiCRKP5dt2c9VNMDCzjVndEQwLyS_aGp377GWs1lsW4vrEIgkytt4B40l-5Ix_wPp2eJlWL9Jvy6dv4wfXX6uACfT8P47pVHmFuIUHv57CrFRPehLslf9Lr_xo/s1600/IMG_7188.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAP76bui4fNEnmNSU2vmwiCRKP5dt2c9VNMDCzjVndEQwLyS_aGp377GWs1lsW4vrEIgkytt4B40l-5Ix_wPp2eJlWL9Jvy6dv4wfXX6uACfT8P47pVHmFuIUHv57CrFRPehLslf9Lr_xo/s640/IMG_7188.JPG" /></a></div>The host recommended Mouragio Restaurarant on the main strip at the beach shore. We were greeted by Stella and her son that run the front of the house. For dinner we ordered tomato/zucchini stuffed balls, mousakka, tzatziki, horta and beef with onions. The stuffed balls were tomato or zucchini shredded, breaded and fried into fritters. I don’t know if this sounds freaking delicious or terribly boring on words but it was one of the best fritters we’ve eaten. I don’t think I would’ve imagined eating tomato fritters in Crete but we were thankful we did. The beef was slow braised with white onions, hearty because the sweet onions gave it dimension. Horta were sautéed in olive oil and served with lemon juice. Stella said the wild greens grown in Crete are different from other islands; I agree because they were lighter in taste and reminded me of Spinach sautéed in olive oil. Tzatziki and moussaka were fine. They serve watermelon and a homemade dessert on the house. <br />
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Crete is one of the largest islands in Greece. Like Santorini Crete is mountainous with towns and cities built on coastal tops or valleys. Since we had all day, we drove to Panormos- inlet and secret cove from the tourists. There aren’t signs of the beach on the main highway so it is easy to overlook. The water is clear and the shore was filled with seaweed sponges. (We repeatedly saw souvenir shops selling bath-scrubs and sponges and wondered why, now we had an answer.) We loved swimming in the warm waters of Crete, so much so we spent our entire day in Crete on this beach. The water temperature was nice, swimming was pleasant and the beach was quieter. In comparison, the water in Naxos was bluer and cleaner and by no means sea sponges are dirty but it was a funny, tickly feeling to stand on in Cretan waters. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilIigj9Up-Pjak9nWw71u-8EZe0bMh0O1rX6hNLrW1ThrqeeKi-EyFFlV3cMy_UIpflJOF3Gpx0UHhy5Dw5dquXbvAejEEif10X1uQ5CuVh88GW8KOtlIxSFjH-FWhxsmj7MJq8FfXAFH1/s1600/2014-06-10+16.06.57.jpg" imageanchor="0" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 0em; margin-right: 0em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilIigj9Up-Pjak9nWw71u-8EZe0bMh0O1rX6hNLrW1ThrqeeKi-EyFFlV3cMy_UIpflJOF3Gpx0UHhy5Dw5dquXbvAejEEif10X1uQ5CuVh88GW8KOtlIxSFjH-FWhxsmj7MJq8FfXAFH1/s320/2014-06-10+16.06.57.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-k94Hd9_EiZFpQIJO4nv6-To2HkINiDlBMMzLa7_LV-wyATFOU59c4JW2jS4b9x27gdCLraZbTWfGFROYqPkLpPmwbMm99YRQJLNWIuo1lOlHoqvoeEo5UX6GGrRR8Htatmi7us19O86t/s1600/2014-06-10+16.07.06.jpg" imageanchor="0" style="clear: right; float: right;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-k94Hd9_EiZFpQIJO4nv6-To2HkINiDlBMMzLa7_LV-wyATFOU59c4JW2jS4b9x27gdCLraZbTWfGFROYqPkLpPmwbMm99YRQJLNWIuo1lOlHoqvoeEo5UX6GGrRR8Htatmi7us19O86t/s320/2014-06-10+16.07.06.jpg" /></a><br />
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We lunched at the tavern at the beach and ate well. The eggplant dip (baba ganoush) were so good, I could’ve licked the plate and the tzatziki was fine. The husband ordered the daily special of rabbit (our server said the boss’ neighbor shoots rabbits for the restaurant. Thanks for letting us know!). The stew was rich but the meat was overcooked. If in Crete, Panormos is the destination to be a beach bum. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJliNnLcL9t29BzxIpu3jLLzYuNdg35yKRSPKl2GfNulvpjfbb_FXvmXUYodukstuC2G5lORoy5TNgE9U3USYwUJqCheMk9OCtthgE950CpdJYsr4LmSS_q5UCetNzo79KXchBNeTcOE_h/s1600/2014-06-10+20.59.14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJliNnLcL9t29BzxIpu3jLLzYuNdg35yKRSPKl2GfNulvpjfbb_FXvmXUYodukstuC2G5lORoy5TNgE9U3USYwUJqCheMk9OCtthgE950CpdJYsr4LmSS_q5UCetNzo79KXchBNeTcOE_h/s320/2014-06-10+20.59.14.jpg" /></a></div>That evening we went back to Mouragio. We ordered mezze to share. It included the fritters, fava, beet salad, lamb chops and keftedes (ground meat balls). The fava was made with chickpeas and great. The beet salad was boiled beets, marinated in olive oil and vinegar and served with raw garlic. The beets were fine but the husband wasn’t a fan of raw garlic because the sharp garlic was overwhelming. Lamb chops were grilled flawlessly; I thought they were breaded and fried but the husband disagreed, whatever the case, they were very tasty. Keftedes were made with pork and herbs; good but overdone. If served with lemon, drizzle the juice on the keftedes. This is a great restaurant amongst a row of (possibly) average restaurants. <br />
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Since Crete is a large island it deserves more than one day and on my list to revisit. Greece has a large mainland and many small and large islands; its culture, food and sights reflected this in the different places. We had a fantastic time in Greece and would love to revisit the country. <br />
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Few important notes, many people asked us about safety in Greece, especially Athens. Not once in our stay did we feel unsafe; this isn’t a general statement for all cases, obviously, but Athens isn’t as unsafe as many believe. I warn of using caution but that should apply in any foreign city/state, regardless of their economic situation. June is the beginning of their summer season so it is highly advisable to book ferries in advance; not only does this secure seats but this saves from the hassle of booking them at each departure. (We were lucky to get seats but in future I’d book in advance.) Our GPS had a hard time determining our destinations because of the different alphabet; ensure you note the English and Greek addresses for all sights and restaurants. <br />
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If you’re still reading this, book a trip to Greece because you deserve it. </span></span></span></div></span>krishwalahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14268236809577851121noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2493381014412529077.post-62725387564075952052014-06-20T12:51:00.000+02:002014-06-22T21:48:38.107+02:00Peach Cobbler <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span style="font-size: medium;">It’s peach season and it is one of the ONLY fruits that the husband isn’t fond of.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Maybe it’s the fuzziness on the skin or the juices running down our hands when we eat a ripe peach, I don’t know but he is missing out! When I saw them at the store, I bought a bunch. <br />
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Then the husband says to me “what are you doing with all those peaches, making peach cobbler?”<br />
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I was shocked.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>How does he know peach cobbler?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If any of you know him you know he can’t remember names of any foods, especially desserts (a course he doesn’t eat because of a dislike for sweets.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Don’t ask, but do roll your eyes!) His dessert list includes tiramisu and chocolate cake. A cobbler? I can’t even remember the difference between buckle, cobbler, crumble.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Since you mention it I will bake a cobbler, I said.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And this recipe evolved from that.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The addition of bourbon was perfect because why not? <br />
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We’d planned a picnic and in addition to burgers, cucumber salad and chips, I brought this to the park.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is very good but I think it is 100 times better when it’s fresh out of the oven and still warm.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisx3ib7OjqASq1iMgFN5DWOROOmx_FuSaoNI6jPBN-Sob7yDeYYWy6OHP-ttNb51qHSPEFiBuFals9uua2kOUHoKeizIgBaeZ4y1KjxYcrX5u751q9dh6tgEY2OQm-oFVg_IGez6Jpcoxn/s1600/2014-06-15+19.00.26.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisx3ib7OjqASq1iMgFN5DWOROOmx_FuSaoNI6jPBN-Sob7yDeYYWy6OHP-ttNb51qHSPEFiBuFals9uua2kOUHoKeizIgBaeZ4y1KjxYcrX5u751q9dh6tgEY2OQm-oFVg_IGez6Jpcoxn/s400/2014-06-15+19.00.26.jpg" height="400" width="299" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQoWPGQNTbIWJphTruhvFzoHyEdAk7n7Lv7Emkrvr1WCXjY-9-_76ZRfuMTGD_frNErZ_lgmyBlb3TB78jVXkXv08G9SJDX5wQ1zNZZrge39MMISald8f0Wkgekf9yygJOOOQLM4jxdwFn/s1600/2014-06-15+17.51.14.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQoWPGQNTbIWJphTruhvFzoHyEdAk7n7Lv7Emkrvr1WCXjY-9-_76ZRfuMTGD_frNErZ_lgmyBlb3TB78jVXkXv08G9SJDX5wQ1zNZZrge39MMISald8f0Wkgekf9yygJOOOQLM4jxdwFn/s400/2014-06-15+17.51.14.jpg" height="400" width="299" /></a><br />
<b>Bourbon Peach Cobbler</b><br />
Yield: 3 generous servings or 4 normal <br />
highly adapted from these <a href="http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/tyler-florence/bourbon-peach-cobbler-recipe2.html" target="_blank">two</a> <a href="http://www.dessertfortwo.com/2010/08/texas-peach-cobbler/" target="_blank">recipes </a><br />
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1/4 cup bourbon (whiskey can be used) <br />
3 peaches, peeled and chopped (without the pith)<br />
1 teaspoon cornstarch<br />
2 tablespoons sugar<br />
pinch of ground cinnamon<br />
1/2 cup all purpose flour<br />
1 teaspoon baking powder<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(single acting) or 1/2 teaspoon double acting (found in US)<br />
1/8 teaspoon salt<br />
1 teaspoon sugar <br />
1 tablespoon butter , used room temperature (next time try with cold butter) <br />
1/3 cup milk <br />
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1/2 teaspoon sugar, for sprinkling on top <br />
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Preheat the oven to 350°F or 175°C<br />
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Mix the peaches with the bourbon, sugar, cornstarch and cinnamon. Combine well and then let sit so the fruit macerates in the syrup while preparing the crust.<br />
<div class="MsoNormal"><br />
Combine flour, baking powder, sugar and salt in a medium bowl. Add butter and mix it with fork.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Add milk and stir just until ingredients are incorporated. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It should be slightly wet and sticky.</div><br />
Drop the dough by the spoon on top of the fruit. There will be gaps but the dough will spread and puff as it bakes. Sprinkle the dough with sugar.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><br />
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Bake for 30- 35 minutes, until the biscuits are evenly browned and a toothpick inserted into the crust comes out clean. Serve warm (with vanilla ice cream if you want to indulge).</span></div>krishwalahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14268236809577851121noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2493381014412529077.post-15897477992405349152014-06-18T12:22:00.001+02:002014-06-24T20:36:45.922+02:00Nürnberg Trials and Dokumentationszentrum (Doku zentrum or Documentation Center) <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span style="font-size: medium;">..following up from the last <a href="http://porkbierbelly.blogspot.de/2014/06/dachau.html">post</a>… <br />
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Before moving in 2011 when we told friends and family about our new venture, they often asked “isn’t that where the Nürnberg trials were?” If there is one thing it is known for, it is the trials. Also the laws, introduced in the 30s when National Socialist (Nazi) party was gaining momentum, presented in a Rally in Nürnberg. The laws are meaningless. <br />
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The trials museum, on the other hand, housed in a Nürnberg court that is used as a judiciary building on most days is a must. The exhibition is lengthy and details the proceedings and sentences of individuals tried for war crimes. There is some audio and videos. Visiting times are limited so check the museum hours. <br />
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After the court, Doku zentrum is worth visiting also. It’s a large structure built by the party intended for outdoor rallies and an indoor hall for political meetings. Parts of the construction were never completed. Today it is a museum chronicling the rise and fall of Nazi party. The information is precise and thorough. <br />
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If planning a visit, plan to dedicate an entire day to both. <br />
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(Of course, the city is also known for the <a href="http://porkbierbelly.blogspot.de/2012/12/nurnberg-christkindlesmarkt.html">Christkindlesmarkt</a> and sausages, beer...) </div></span>krishwalahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14268236809577851121noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2493381014412529077.post-42487950063304530032014-06-16T14:33:00.000+02:002014-06-16T14:33:00.566+02:00Dachau<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span style="font-size: medium;">I have had a hard time writing this post because words cannot describe what we saw, read and learned in Dachau. Dachau Concentration Camp was opened in 1933 to house Jews, political prisoners, minority (Roma/homosexuals) and anyone that spoke openly against the Nazis (and its beliefs). Over time there were various camps set up throughout Germany and European countries, initially for forced labor. Dachau started as a forced labor camp with excessive work hours and production quotas for prisoners. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4fN73j0suSaciDf2_GHGYsXweWIcz0vSruWXIXt793seBlfeCoOu0ReJ2ftOu8lTK4lO6qwdkzSVbRsS1BUSH-5smYdRauvxmkjhmpQIkkAa6Hq76ahUT-8Kr5jP1WWtlOPHify_3Pt2Q/s1600/IMG_7786.JPG" imageanchor="0" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 0em; margin-left: 0em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4fN73j0suSaciDf2_GHGYsXweWIcz0vSruWXIXt793seBlfeCoOu0ReJ2ftOu8lTK4lO6qwdkzSVbRsS1BUSH-5smYdRauvxmkjhmpQIkkAa6Hq76ahUT-8Kr5jP1WWtlOPHify_3Pt2Q/s400/IMG_7786.JPG" height="211" width="320" /></a><br />
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Now it is an empty space with a memorial for those lost and few that survived. The museum offers a guided tour in English which we highly recommend. There’s also an extensive exhibit in the museum with preserved photos and information of some of the people. The stories are gut wrenching. Even with brutal conditions, many were hopeful to leave the camp one day. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrS_eef3U2aIEs9DSHS_PXSbZEC_Tnww7LxMArzIlZCD8iyjypkIz6GU94mQkwAyjxcr_nwv3NgMTDp5izHBGT4clXFsFupc_qwX05qW9J0lV05PhebmcGTxy_K0AwtaiBqwt7vUFcw-CV/s1600/IMG_7765.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrS_eef3U2aIEs9DSHS_PXSbZEC_Tnww7LxMArzIlZCD8iyjypkIz6GU94mQkwAyjxcr_nwv3NgMTDp5izHBGT4clXFsFupc_qwX05qW9J0lV05PhebmcGTxy_K0AwtaiBqwt7vUFcw-CV/s400/IMG_7765.JPG" /></a></div>Arbeit macht Frei (work will make me free) <br />
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We went on a very cold winter day, hence the snow, and we advice against that. Except for the museum the tour is outside and by the end of the tour our toes were freezing, with socks and boots. I cannot understand how in the harsh winters these individuals endured with bare minimum clothes and footwear. <br />
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It is impossible to write about Dachau because it was created under merciless conditions and treated normal people inhumanely, but to never forget those lost and hope something like this never happens again Dachau deserves a visit.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1GzDgXRaYx51YdnvOKiFTyp7EKKIh7TaysN_Jr6OQ9nC6VgO7BNzpmSGYYWbBrIKaZS5ztTRuubrt0MVur47uHwaHFzxxf8oh1YpWEtAGHTWhs53Y3DMyXXig9Hg_lgb1DiuRJB5M50Nl/s1600/IMG_7774.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1GzDgXRaYx51YdnvOKiFTyp7EKKIh7TaysN_Jr6OQ9nC6VgO7BNzpmSGYYWbBrIKaZS5ztTRuubrt0MVur47uHwaHFzxxf8oh1YpWEtAGHTWhs53Y3DMyXXig9Hg_lgb1DiuRJB5M50Nl/s1600/IMG_7774.JPG" height="425" width="640" /></a></div>Due to its proximity, there are frequent trains from Munich to Dachau. From Nürnberg, we took the train to Munich and then transferred. Check English tour times in advance. </div></span>krishwalahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14268236809577851121noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2493381014412529077.post-38890215883445154922014-06-13T14:41:00.000+02:002014-06-13T14:41:25.208+02:00The start of Bavarian Beer fests<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span style="font-size: medium;">It’s the beginning of beer festival season in Bavaria. There’s the infamous <a href="http://porkbierbelly.blogspot.de/2012/10/say-it-with-me-munchen.html">Oktoberfest in Munich</a>. And as fun as that was, the local ones are funner; not a word, I know, but I am using it. Traditional charm without the madness. Of course there are drunk people (acting a fool) but there are more locals enjoying beer and one another’s company. <br />
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The one happening right now is Bergkirchweih in Erlangen, a university town 20 kilometers from Nürnberg. There’s Annafest in July in Forchheim, further north. Berg is smaller than Oktoberfest and Annafest is smaller than the Berg. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRZ5VtQyXO4oXcB7My-UQRwGgyowpOzu_dWAUobZC2JGNdDfjS9EqnHtdP74QuShcdY3nFhIwvouQ0JxQhdLjOZTFWIOe3g-WE_mfjLLEplZCoIVZR9b55yqBgh7pGgeon_Jb2U0zRrSXW/s1600/IMG_9519.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRZ5VtQyXO4oXcB7My-UQRwGgyowpOzu_dWAUobZC2JGNdDfjS9EqnHtdP74QuShcdY3nFhIwvouQ0JxQhdLjOZTFWIOe3g-WE_mfjLLEplZCoIVZR9b55yqBgh7pGgeon_Jb2U0zRrSXW/s400/IMG_9519.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRr85BBJ96ZExEvm6UOuzUmAI6enPbIrMcDlD7tAH6_404MI4eS67VM0VshMOFv_3gAHPBUQwTX_XG1QV5Duh68yGLU11MZw_GW0Hj6tbLQpzWjdadd2SEC353JBXQWnn4rO3ug09fRBfH/s1600/IMG_9533.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRr85BBJ96ZExEvm6UOuzUmAI6enPbIrMcDlD7tAH6_404MI4eS67VM0VshMOFv_3gAHPBUQwTX_XG1QV5Duh68yGLU11MZw_GW0Hj6tbLQpzWjdadd2SEC353JBXQWnn4rO3ug09fRBfH/s400/IMG_9533.JPG" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTWAU2Xabv-h1NWA6_XnqnXIevF0Q0RJQRzTPZ8roiECB-sHfxYDzo6Jp_9S3e-pApjyAyfPS4AGfdE4Nu49c1dSSXjpA266YF-dvCE3XVC1QuqKH8GvckvTH6W1kudJCT939TzXa9k5la/s1600/IMG_9527.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTWAU2Xabv-h1NWA6_XnqnXIevF0Q0RJQRzTPZ8roiECB-sHfxYDzo6Jp_9S3e-pApjyAyfPS4AGfdE4Nu49c1dSSXjpA266YF-dvCE3XVC1QuqKH8GvckvTH6W1kudJCT939TzXa9k5la/s320/IMG_9527.JPG" /></a></div>Many breweries (cellars) serve one type of beer they’ve specially made. The setup is simple; each brewery has designated tents with tables and benches. Servers take beer orders. Beer is served in a Maß, 1 liter of beer. Food can be bought at the food stands with various offerings including large pretzels, sausages, fish sandwiches, candied nuts, and chocolates. There are some ethnic specialties like Langos (Fried dough served with sour cream and cheese, Hungarian) and Crepes (thin pancakes with sweet or savory filling, French). <br />
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Other than the breweries and food, there are games and rides; good for the whole family. The festival has carnival atmosphere. <br />
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The key is to get there early (3-4 pm) to snatch a table and hold it for friends. We’ve learned from the locals to leave at a reasonable time (8-9 pm) to avoid the drunken debauchery that happens at beer festivals. <br />
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Prost! </div></span>krishwalahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14268236809577851121noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2493381014412529077.post-82178636122269988462014-06-03T23:22:00.001+02:002014-06-12T14:44:04.241+02:00Sardinia or Sardegna<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span style="font-size: medium;">We planned a trip to Sardinia when we saw a cheap flight from Nuremberg to Olbia. I googled Olbia; it doesn’t have much in the way for sightseeing. The main reason for this trip was to eat Sardinian food, get some sunshine and play in water. <br />
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We had an hour delay on departure, thankfully only an hour. We arrived late but the car rentals were still open. Agriturismo Li Scopi, for our first night, in San Teodoro is 30 minutes from the airport but after dark it took us 50 minutes on unknown roads in the dark. Li Scopi is hard to find so be sure to note the get GPS points, infact that’s true for all Italian locations. The nice host offered to stay for a late check in.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLNgxtZv8rh2RZP9lj21mD9dGmflGI95i2Oy9Jez6PpqDTAe1ahU1H9fcsemZ2kv3Dm0UXLbkZWP-8tzaVuaTyYQyeseKC4JX3XRWsDkoSAKJ5UTUOgP5xaRJyxRZPJU3o0hGYt3_d5Ar0/s1600/IMG_6880.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLNgxtZv8rh2RZP9lj21mD9dGmflGI95i2Oy9Jez6PpqDTAe1ahU1H9fcsemZ2kv3Dm0UXLbkZWP-8tzaVuaTyYQyeseKC4JX3XRWsDkoSAKJ5UTUOgP5xaRJyxRZPJU3o0hGYt3_d5Ar0/s1600/IMG_6880.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a> We slept well and woke up to a beautiful, clear day. The breakfast is served in the main house. In addition to fruits, sliced meats, cheese, cookies and cakes, they serve fresh yogurt and Sardinian flatbread, Pane Carasau. It’s crisp and thin cracker consistency. There’s abundance of food and something for everyone.<br />
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Each couple/family gets their own bungalow. Our bungalow was sophisticated and minimal. The wood beams and the large farm door at entrance worked. In addition to the main bedroom there is a smaller room attached with a table and chair and a cot (for a small child). There is also a wrap-around patio with lawn chairs. <br />
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After breakfast we drove to the nearest beach in San Teodoro. The clear water spanning multi shades of blue was beautiful. The day was sunny but the water was too cold for a swim, lesson learned, visit between June and October. There are few things that make me as happy as I was on that day on the shores with my feet in the water.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8ipiULFjj-wHcMMMA6NEQjY3O41TmothQplTvR8H4T-z_DecuJtvhJrO3YFHl5jAV74elJFXlf1NIW_WgViBFKMHOKlanBReHteIyMPJuUUcD_Dob7ZolAkCs8orAwhhRPYwAPRD-fSws/s1600/IMG_6813.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8ipiULFjj-wHcMMMA6NEQjY3O41TmothQplTvR8H4T-z_DecuJtvhJrO3YFHl5jAV74elJFXlf1NIW_WgViBFKMHOKlanBReHteIyMPJuUUcD_Dob7ZolAkCs8orAwhhRPYwAPRD-fSws/s1600/IMG_6813.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>After a long stroll along the shore we headed south in the direction of Orosei & Cala Gonone. We decided to take the scenic route hugging the coast. (There is a highway that gets you from Olbia (or northern areas) to Cala Gonone faster.) Parts of the drive are on windy, hilly roads with water miles below while in other areas the road runs close to the road. We stopped in the town of Nuoro for lunch but were turned away by the owner because they open only for dinner. Not starved we drove to Agriturismo Gulunie to check in and drop off our bags. The agriturismo is on a hill overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea. <br />
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An older nonna (grandma) walked out from the main house and greeted us. I asked for our room and she had no idea what I was saying. Then the husband heard her say some words including “mangiare” and understood it as eating/food. She’s asking us about lunch he says. When did the husband learn Italian? Since we arrived to Europe, apparently or in one of those trips we’ve taken. Smart one, that husband. So I said no nonna no mangiare, solamente dormir. (When the only other language you know, Spanish, which may sound like Italian you use it. I did.) So the nonna said, si, si and told us to wait. After few minutes her daughter or someone of our age pulled up in a car and we got everything situated.<br />
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Our room was ordinary with a double bed and bunk beds. Both the bedroom and bathroom are poorly decorated. Coming from Li Scopi this was a slight disappointment. The younger woman told us they offer dinner each night. Having read the reviews for their food, we made reservations. <br />
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We asked for lunch suggestion and she said Osalla Beach Garden, a restaurant we’d seen on the way there. Osalla is on the beach and has benches and tables on the sand with palm trees offering shade. There’s also a bar for the beachgoers. One of the waiters offered the fresh seafood of the day and recommended some dishes including octopus, crabs, fish, and clams. After we ordered a couple and their toddler started getting their food. Between the three of them, they ordered 7-8 large portion dishes, some with pasta and all with seafood. While waiting and our mouths watering, we impatiently awaited our food. I had grilled octopus with grilled vegetables and the husband had pasta with crab and shared wine. Both dishes were terrific. If you’re in the area, go here especially from the beach. <br />
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After lunch we went to the local grocery store and bought wine. We had our tablets and wine in tow; we headed to the shore to read and drink. Again we dipped our feet in water and the water was cold. The shining sun and wine made the afternoon enjoyable. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsaW-Fc_AoqJ_EogKEmzzRjK5-R0tfk33GBsKQWoaHUZD7dSoDpgMtsCz1KyqHxT3rFYUEC1fsff3AILv8FMYOgJCZH626bBE_aKf20qyxg7k10zhLOk83xd_Q-86u3yuPHkQV37GreH8T/s1600/IMG_3506%5B1%5D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsaW-Fc_AoqJ_EogKEmzzRjK5-R0tfk33GBsKQWoaHUZD7dSoDpgMtsCz1KyqHxT3rFYUEC1fsff3AILv8FMYOgJCZH626bBE_aKf20qyxg7k10zhLOk83xd_Q-86u3yuPHkQV37GreH8T/s1600/IMG_3506%5B1%5D.JPG" height="200" width="149" /></a></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ_x7J3W1walq7UiF9O9VQYoMGBZwIps0Y00lLmkgXMX-Nl8fALIOJZIbO6r1qEFgIQBsPJbfz7jR3mHbTGT2GAVEUmJbWXyDpC14P0QZX0jiKzImWJ2_6g_mnmV_ZB-RVu_53gjVa-lSi/s1600/IMG_3505%5B1%5D.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ_x7J3W1walq7UiF9O9VQYoMGBZwIps0Y00lLmkgXMX-Nl8fALIOJZIbO6r1qEFgIQBsPJbfz7jR3mHbTGT2GAVEUmJbWXyDpC14P0QZX0jiKzImWJ2_6g_mnmV_ZB-RVu_53gjVa-lSi/s1600/IMG_3505%5B1%5D.JPG" height="200" width="149" /></a>Dinner started promptly at 7:30 in the main dining room and the restaurant was half full. Like the <a href="http://porkbierbelly.blogspot.de/2013/12/tuscany-part-i.html">Tuscan agriturismo</a>, we knew there would be many courses of food. We started with Pane Carasau, antipasti of marinated artichokes, tomato topped with salty ricotta and egg custard. They also serve cinghiale (wild boar) salami, prosciutto and cheese with antipasti. We could not get enough of the tomatoes with salted ricotta and marinated artichokes, we asked for seconds. Next was pasta, both homemade. Malloreddus (Sardinian gnocchi) with Bolognese (meat sauce) and the other ravioli, filled with dough. Both pastas were delightful but we found the ravioli filled with dough unusual, not good or bad. The main course was porcheddu, roasted suckling pig, with salad. The meat was tender, juicy and very fatty. After stuffing our faces with 3 courses we were done yet the kitchen wasn’t. Next came seada di ricotta, dough filled with ricotta, fried and then drizzled with honey. It’s like an empanada. It sounds unreal and tasted unreal and turned out to be one of my favorite desserts. Who thinks of frying cheese in dough and drizzling with honey? Sardinians! Then we had fruits with berries and citrus. The meal finished with fresh ricotta with honey. Did I mention they provide unlimited wine? There was coffee, we still can’t drink coffee after dinner like the Europeans as well as Mirto, liquor from the Myrtle plant. The husband tried it and we believe we’re not Mirto (or Grappa) fans because it astringent flavor. A memorable meal that costs almost nothing; the dinner is special at Agriturismo Gulunie.<br />
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Breakfast at Gulunie on the other hand is not memorable. They serve average breads, fruits and store bought yogurt. Since we were content with dinner it was fine to have a light breakfast. <br />
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We went to Cala Gonone to plan our activity. I’d researched information on a hike from Cala Luna to Cala Goloritze (UNESCO site) which takes roughly 3 hours. At the information desk in Cala Gonone the woman suggested a boat ride. She said the hike is strenuous and we didn’t have proper shoes for the trail. Thanks for the tip tourist person. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPtqz3a4I_yCKLT90YqEKori_sVkyN1y8q4Efys1XcDwAKtsJjDuM21uRjRk7go8id0B3qo9S4qR0S7XuLtcWkraW4E1tpeHuQlnhr2_pBpFoAWVNr35XjxmJ7dwUJT_lfF_eGgSccfEoO/s1600/IMG_6869.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPtqz3a4I_yCKLT90YqEKori_sVkyN1y8q4Efys1XcDwAKtsJjDuM21uRjRk7go8id0B3qo9S4qR0S7XuLtcWkraW4E1tpeHuQlnhr2_pBpFoAWVNr35XjxmJ7dwUJT_lfF_eGgSccfEoO/s1600/IMG_6869.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a> At the port, we bought tickets for a boat ride. It started from Cala Gonone to Cala Luna, Cala Goloritze, Cala Mariolu, Cala Gabbiani and couple others I can’t remember. (It follows the hiking trail on water). Since we’d missed the departure for Cala Luna at 10:30, the captain said the boat would pick us up at 12:15 and take us to next destination. We arrived at Cala Luna and picked up the 10:30am group of 6 and headed to the next stop. The boat takes visitors from one cala to the next and permits time to sunbathe (or swim in warmer weather). At each stop we were given 1 hour. Since the water was cold, we sunbathe and snapped photos. The scenery of the mountains reaching the sea was breathtaking. The rock formations were surreal. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiMmplBWmXaBwLiLv_f8JoW1yQ5gcxP_rYd4DcOetkpIN63ENX5y0-pwA8vWRcDShavwKJS7QmCm4joI-W7M-oSYFbMSI-rbMS3E1Qh8rdyi_bFigy6q5gpR2qi0avq1JDFv3vzNsvVNEQ/s1600/IMG_6879.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiMmplBWmXaBwLiLv_f8JoW1yQ5gcxP_rYd4DcOetkpIN63ENX5y0-pwA8vWRcDShavwKJS7QmCm4joI-W7M-oSYFbMSI-rbMS3E1Qh8rdyi_bFigy6q5gpR2qi0avq1JDFv3vzNsvVNEQ/s1600/IMG_6879.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a> The water was deep in some areas and shallow in others. The driver explained the rock formations’ history, as best as he could in his broken English. While driving from one cove to the next, the driver also took us into some hidden caves with the boat. One such cove was in use until the 19-90s and then a massive rock fell from the mountain on the coast (no one was hurt) and therefore is no longer accessible.<br />
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We agreed that when the water is warmer, these hidden caves would be the perfect place to swim. On that note, if going in peak summer, many visitors rent their own jettys and visit at their own pace. That requires parking the jetty far from the shore and swimming up to shore. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSIDH_wotyOeeomrmtB2k3I86wmPbOWJ07bOpTXhp6hw7vwt8AeBXzrMYn8awamsZ8QIZ0yC8fkzJQMEFgVa-bM-W6Pr9NMYA_s9Ir6ToMFS5xBJS4yhRQBRyHbjlZ9hN3wfSuEw9uJpVY/s1600/IMG_6845.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSIDH_wotyOeeomrmtB2k3I86wmPbOWJ07bOpTXhp6hw7vwt8AeBXzrMYn8awamsZ8QIZ0yC8fkzJQMEFgVa-bM-W6Pr9NMYA_s9Ir6ToMFS5xBJS4yhRQBRyHbjlZ9hN3wfSuEw9uJpVY/s1600/IMG_6845.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a><br />
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Our rental hit high waves and the ride was rocky at times. On either a jetty or rental boat be prepared for high seas and sickness. Also of note, some of these beaches are pebbly making it very uncomfortable on your feet and on the back.<br />
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We returned from the excursion at 5:30pm and were wiped out. The sun, the high waves and overall day at the beach was tiresome. Tough life...<br />
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That evening we drove back to Li Scopi for another night. We asked the host for dinner recommendation and she suggested L’Alculiciu, down the street. She made reservations for us and we were on our way. <br />
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Also an agriturismo that offers a full meal with antipasti, bread, pasta, meat, desserts, unlimited wine, water, coffee and mirto. There were some memorable dishes. One was battered and fried eggplant, we still have the taste of the eggplant in our mouths. Fried cheese that we both devoured. FRIED CHEESE, People!!! Another was red beans with sausage; the beans were slow cooked in the sausage. I could not get enough of the braised Romano beans in olive oil and garlic; we asked our server to leave the unfinished plate of beans. He chuckled. There were three pastas including Sardinian gnocchi with meat sauce, lasagna baked with some hallucinogenic drug (I am kidding, I wanted to see if you were reading… it was so good we will never forget it.) and ravioli filled with ricotta and served with sage butter sauce. (On a side side note, I just learned the lasagna dish’s name and its details. It’s called Zuppa Gallurese. And it’s not a soup at all. It’s made with stale bread soaked in broth then layered with cheese, topped with cow’s milk cheese and baked. It was invented in Gallura. I love google and that it feeds (pun intended!) my need-to-know-brain with food information.) There was porcheddu, given because it's the national dish of Sardinia, I say! The homey flavors and comforting service were authentic. The only server knew we were foreigners and he was kind and often asked if everything was okay. If the food at Gulunie was tasty, the food here was remarkable; I fell in love with Sardinia that evening, one more time.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitE_cdw5df1gFAD0vdBwZSxBTBR003iQPIHZjLw8DVq9QU-u0lt-hsx-50eB5pm6uqPcSyseDWB0l62kD7Tej3C6i5ogiBcxmrXNeyi6LLIsOF3qhViLDP5VjzYO5iPZGZSXH5dZHY4EsW/s1600/IMG_3531%5B1%5D.JPG" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 0em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitE_cdw5df1gFAD0vdBwZSxBTBR003iQPIHZjLw8DVq9QU-u0lt-hsx-50eB5pm6uqPcSyseDWB0l62kD7Tej3C6i5ogiBcxmrXNeyi6LLIsOF3qhViLDP5VjzYO5iPZGZSXH5dZHY4EsW/s1600/IMG_3531%5B1%5D.JPG" height="200" width="149" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYPSfTTlfmWdjnoJQ-PvGvziIpkNK_ndHGUs_7xAIWaucHfQsc9W8glrPWMF8ghGqB0vFSc1csIyc2Ctd3h-eHMDPTnwq9qr4XdFwvy5gaE-AT8avgsZf5ZNwlFw820AlwgkQDGtcQYday/s1600/IMG_3533%5B2%5D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 0em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYPSfTTlfmWdjnoJQ-PvGvziIpkNK_ndHGUs_7xAIWaucHfQsc9W8glrPWMF8ghGqB0vFSc1csIyc2Ctd3h-eHMDPTnwq9qr4XdFwvy5gaE-AT8avgsZf5ZNwlFw820AlwgkQDGtcQYday/s1600/IMG_3533%5B2%5D.JPG" height="200" width="149" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-chtlBfMqA4jr7HiF_eU4HmhsoDqFWVSYLm6zN8t7ErYIc50vzgTo2fhBiI3_l-MjpHZrjQ8AanZ-63ELaJoxhVAkkcBNMhOoEAVisPgLWVHUPnjoWwhXl6qraE2Bj8VX8Jyxqa_6lJbK/s1600/IMG_3532%5B1%5D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0em; margin-right: 0em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-chtlBfMqA4jr7HiF_eU4HmhsoDqFWVSYLm6zN8t7ErYIc50vzgTo2fhBiI3_l-MjpHZrjQ8AanZ-63ELaJoxhVAkkcBNMhOoEAVisPgLWVHUPnjoWwhXl6qraE2Bj8VX8Jyxqa_6lJbK/s1600/IMG_3532%5B1%5D.JPG" height="200" width="149" /></a></div>The next morning we ventured North, past Olbia. In the 60s, a developer put Sardinia on the tourism map by developing an area on the northeast coast, Costa Smerlada. The husband’s coworker suggested we checkout the yachts and homes. No yacht sighting but the area radiates wealth amid gated communities and mansions overlooking the sea. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDFFGLyG6p6VxHDRuQNqL7WVFLHHHSVl_fMBjeyVV7rUztCzeiiNFewCBsqlqRN9xxtDdeTzhgrgOD_08N3kaZL_c17NGpDprtEVQ1XGLzB_9LRsIzOgB_Oh7y_AYoDIua_l2uP1tlPzBn/s1600/IMG_3535%5B1%5D.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDFFGLyG6p6VxHDRuQNqL7WVFLHHHSVl_fMBjeyVV7rUztCzeiiNFewCBsqlqRN9xxtDdeTzhgrgOD_08N3kaZL_c17NGpDprtEVQ1XGLzB_9LRsIzOgB_Oh7y_AYoDIua_l2uP1tlPzBn/s1600/IMG_3535%5B1%5D.JPG" height="200" width="149" /></a>We lunched at a Sardinian version of state road restaurant. The inside was nice and clean. It was a Sunday because families dined for post church lunch. Seeing other tables I took note and ordered mussels. The husband ordered pasta with seafood upon the server’s recommendation. Both dishes were outstanding. We were surprised by the food because it was a random restaurant on Route 125 between Olbia and Costa Smerlada<br />
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We covered a small area in Sardinia and I would come back again if given the choice. San Teodoro has peaceful sandy beaches with turquoise waters while Cala Gonone offers swimming coves with shallow and deep waters. We visited Sardinia for three reasons relaxing, swimming and the food. Thankfully we accomplished two!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaf2Z3uA3Jp5mfSiV_5pUz8zkbxxxKj0H95zCsn47-sA4S990E6xIgfqTqsVaZTmpNNQ6BI32fNVLgpHADyE-QLt67jXOQ5H9afCjbf0rh_nMVN7bTcPiNveJBDCxleaWEZEZm4XhG4EJp/s1600/IMG_6871.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaf2Z3uA3Jp5mfSiV_5pUz8zkbxxxKj0H95zCsn47-sA4S990E6xIgfqTqsVaZTmpNNQ6BI32fNVLgpHADyE-QLt67jXOQ5H9afCjbf0rh_nMVN7bTcPiNveJBDCxleaWEZEZm4XhG4EJp/s1600/IMG_6871.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></div></span><br />
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(don't mind the bad iPhone photos of the food; blogger.com or iPhone are up to no good or I am having a technologically challenged day.)<br />
</div>krishwalahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14268236809577851121noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2493381014412529077.post-44893970746792666082014-05-28T11:44:00.000+02:002014-06-03T23:11:37.198+02:00Parents love Biscotti <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span style="font-size: medium;">I often have a fantastic time when my mom visits us. Not only does she stay for extended time, she always comes with plans to cook all kinds of food I don’t normally make. Last time she visited she taught me how to make khaman or tried. I have attempted khaman on my own but they aren’t as good as when she is here; there’s a reason I learn new recipes from her!<br />
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In addition to making Indian food few days, she wanted to learn to make ethnic recipes. One was a recipe for chicken in pumpkin seed sauce (reminiscent of Mexican cuisine). I have made green sauce in US using tomatillos (that green fruit originated in Mexico look like tomatoes but come in skins known as husks, sticky on the peel and taste tart). Since Tomatillos aren’t available here in Germany so I have been making the green sauce without them. Blending pumpkin seeds, garlic, Serrano peppers, spices and cilantro into a smooth paste makes for a great sauce. <br />
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The recipe I am sharing today is one of her and my dad’s favorites. The one requested item that they ask me to bring is biscotti. So I thought I’d show her how to make it and take some for home. <br />
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I had been using another recipe in the past but when I stumbled upon the NPR recipe. After trying this recipe I can attest it is a keeper! I slightly modified the recipe. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikpndvlloweN3cUEIx5mGir5Vk41rVogb8NQOHXRFHjeI2xn9A4o6AgsfbBisN7I29aGa86UwsYbtRY5Z7wcb-PIINWbnzpAWXPZlk7Yey0qQhOeXQbn1OiJWTcGw-D3bdeGIxpqNjZ6nT/s1600/IMG_6528.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikpndvlloweN3cUEIx5mGir5Vk41rVogb8NQOHXRFHjeI2xn9A4o6AgsfbBisN7I29aGa86UwsYbtRY5Z7wcb-PIINWbnzpAWXPZlk7Yey0qQhOeXQbn1OiJWTcGw-D3bdeGIxpqNjZ6nT/s320/IMG_6528.JPG" /></a><br />
<b><a href="http://www.npr.org/2011/01/11/132838892/recipe-traditional-italian-almond-biscotti">Traditional Italian Almond Biscotti</a></b><br />
Makes about 36 biscotti (3/4-inch-wide cookies)<br />
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3 cups unsalted whole almonds<br />
1 cup granulated sugar<br />
1 cup light brown sugar<br />
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon<br />
2 teaspoons baking powder<br />
2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour<br />
3 large eggs<br />
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract<br />
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Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees. Line 2 large baking sheets with parchment paper.<br />
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Place almonds in a single layer on a baking sheet and toast in the 350-degree oven for 10 minutes. Remove and set aside.<br />
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In a large bowl, hand mix toasted almonds, sugars, cinnamon, baking powder and flour.<br />
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In a small bowl, whisk eggs. Add the vanilla and whisk until well blended. Add to the flour mixture. Stir a few times. Work the batter together with lightly floured hands. The mixture will be sticky, but persevere. Keep squeezing the batter with your hands until a dough starts to form. Once the dough is firm, form a ball. Divide the ball into 4 equal pieces.<br />
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On a lightly floured surface, place 1 piece of dough, and using your hands, roll into a log shape that is approximately 8 inches long, 2 inches wide and 3/4 of an inch high. If it's sticky, simply dust your palms with more flour. Repeat with remaining 3 pieces of dough. Place 2 logs per baking sheet. <br />
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Bake for 40 minutes, rotating pans halfway through, or until the tops of the loaves are shiny and deep golden. Cool on a rack for about 20 minutes before slicing.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl7s3R04-Z5oenZH1bAlrieevV9ga6heJ55Wu-NSXWX_GlTOCyJA_3gVfz8KR8D-Pk5nm8_FmeHDZKyyy2yQ06vkbWAY20clqH7E6LsQPFtYVPlzKI93hNUIhvhGXBE89kx5foOS86_U2g/s1600/IMG_6538.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl7s3R04-Z5oenZH1bAlrieevV9ga6heJ55Wu-NSXWX_GlTOCyJA_3gVfz8KR8D-Pk5nm8_FmeHDZKyyy2yQ06vkbWAY20clqH7E6LsQPFtYVPlzKI93hNUIhvhGXBE89kx5foOS86_U2g/s320/IMG_6538.JPG" /></a></div>Place a loaf on a cutting board. Using a large serrated knife, cut 3/4-inch-thick slices, either straight or on the diagonal. Use a back and forth motion to prevent crumbling. Each loaf should yield 9 to 11 cookies. If the cookie is crumbling, then let it cool a few more minutes. Don't let it rest too long, however, or it could become too hard to slice.<br />
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Place slices on their sides back on the baking sheets. Place in the still warm oven with the temperature off and the door closed for 30 to 60 minutes. The longer they stay in the oven, the harder they will become. Remove from oven and cool completely before storing in an airtight container, preferably a tin, which helps keep them crisp. Stored properly, biscotti will last up to a month. <br />
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These did not last a month, more like 1 week, a testament to the taste. <br />
</span></div>krishwalahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14268236809577851121noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2493381014412529077.post-51623665915160425352014-05-22T20:14:00.000+02:002014-05-28T11:25:15.229+02:00Castles worth visiting<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span style="font-size: medium;">In every guidebook and on every travel website one sight that is recommended for American visitors is Schloss Neuschwanstein also known as the Disney Castle. When a friend visited she wanted to go to this castle. And then again when family visited recently, “seeing German castles” was on the list. <br />
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The brief history is King Ludwig (the crazy one that splurged on castles) built this as a vacation home. If time permits, also tour Schloss Hohenschwangau, where King Ludwig spent his childhood summers. Due to Neuschwanstein’s high percentage of visitors each year reserve tickets in advance or you will find yourself waiting in long lines, especially in warmer weather. <br />
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When I went with my friend on a winter weekday, we took the train using the <a href="http://porkbierbelly.blogspot.de/2012/05/traveling-with-transportation.html">Bayern pass</a>. And we learned Bayern pass can only be used after 9am on weekdays and anytime on weekends. We had multiple transfers. 2 stops before our first transfer the ticket checker explained the pass rules and asked to deboard the train at the next stop. The next train arrived after 9 and we boarded. Few transfers and a short bus ride from Hohenschwangau’s main station to the castle’s ticket office, we arrived. Smooth sailing, right? Wrong. We bought our tickets and walked to Hohenschwangau Castle for the first tour. The tour is brief and in it includes royalty’s bedrooms, living/dining quarters. In my opinion, the best part of this tour is the view of Schloss Neuschwanstein. Check in advance or contact the castle because English tours aren’t offered daily. Then we hiked up the hill in snow to the Neuschwanstein’s entrance. By 2pm, we were cold, starved and almost ready to go home. The tour details the king’s life and his mysterious death. The chandelier in the dining room is elegant. The castle is large however only few rooms are open for visits making this also a short tour. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC6VHcUb7jr7KaHG2JsldtxCDUeZfTTwXJrZ3xqBqzyWNRLwRaNFmS9xeZTbOKFd9aw-PXlO-syKog5q55Poff7fvJZhx5lPtNYLqGspgLeg7xodB2DKW8dJiL-5xAiKFK9qk0jZU9tkNs/s1600/IMG_7667.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC6VHcUb7jr7KaHG2JsldtxCDUeZfTTwXJrZ3xqBqzyWNRLwRaNFmS9xeZTbOKFd9aw-PXlO-syKog5q55Poff7fvJZhx5lPtNYLqGspgLeg7xodB2DKW8dJiL-5xAiKFK9qk0jZU9tkNs/s400/IMG_7667.JPG" height="452" width="640" /></a><br />
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For GPS directions, both castles are in the town of Hohenschwangau. Park the car in one of the lots and claim the reserved tickets at the office. There are three options: walk up (the hill) to Neuschwanstein, take the horse carriage for small fee or take the bus for even a smaller fee. The bus is only available in late Spring, Summer and early Fall. My mom, sister and nephew horse rode the carriage while the husband and I hiked up on foot. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioqR0RJVsKq_xZFYKruDp4Q8gQpHud3n3cpHiq4g1vHpcH0Ytte-31-k4fzxzUQ7ndTM5S_3vwp7gZ7xtrDvLAuRU7foNA7Bkw_I8RmI3QHuQjBpo8-TxLgB3ksqLDDl3CGpSOuq5ywfNt/s1600/IMG_7685.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioqR0RJVsKq_xZFYKruDp4Q8gQpHud3n3cpHiq4g1vHpcH0Ytte-31-k4fzxzUQ7ndTM5S_3vwp7gZ7xtrDvLAuRU7foNA7Bkw_I8RmI3QHuQjBpo8-TxLgB3ksqLDDl3CGpSOuq5ywfNt/s400/IMG_7685.JPG" height="425" width="640" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI1yOrETQ7jhWwPKjU5ss88lar-InenY1LoSWxH4j12RXXqX-tzVUNAYEi0CQ7lE4rU6T5VKI8vozOC4Mn2FkmMvO3B9N8yj-61XUlOKE_JNL_ZN_RwJxrYGnO17mYaJsWv-G2GeTxYh7W/s1600/IMG_6599-1.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI1yOrETQ7jhWwPKjU5ss88lar-InenY1LoSWxH4j12RXXqX-tzVUNAYEi0CQ7lE4rU6T5VKI8vozOC4Mn2FkmMvO3B9N8yj-61XUlOKE_JNL_ZN_RwJxrYGnO17mYaJsWv-G2GeTxYh7W/s400/IMG_6599-1.jpg" height="417" width="640" /></a><br />
Even walking down the stairs inside the castle to exit on that cold day was so bone chillingly cold and our toes felt like they would fall off. The walk down was worse due to the snow. At the bus stop we learned the bus had departed and the next would arrive in 30 minutes. Instead of waiting we started walking to the main train station. On our way a car stopped to ask where we were going. The man and woman offered to drive us the short distance. Without thinking twice we both hopped in and were grateful for the kindness of strangers. Thank you! (Normally I say don’t get in cars with strangers but not that day!)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglVxwwppmPDFWt-yt19tq5mSq_yvBVCGqxhgPVUuVGlzgGfGFBMQrsAC-OJGl5MNx8noB_eyrqCVpNWGl6Z0sqZGVSSJtEpaa0ZMRGXKAi08VLoozHXXbhkMMH1Pf0W1IpONnkoJeL-A9S/s1600/IMG_6651.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglVxwwppmPDFWt-yt19tq5mSq_yvBVCGqxhgPVUuVGlzgGfGFBMQrsAC-OJGl5MNx8noB_eyrqCVpNWGl6Z0sqZGVSSJtEpaa0ZMRGXKAi08VLoozHXXbhkMMH1Pf0W1IpONnkoJeL-A9S/s400/IMG_6651.JPG" height="425" width="640" /></a><br />
The Winter visit was a very different experience than the Spring; don’t make our mistakes and visit in cold months. If using the Bayern pass depart after 9am. More importantly plan ahead and book advance tickets. Traveling by car is more convenient and with the Alps as the backdrop a visit is a must on a clear day. </span></div>krishwalahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14268236809577851121noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2493381014412529077.post-80278047221851097392014-05-14T15:29:00.003+02:002014-05-22T16:35:04.933+02:00Tulips in Netherlands<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span style="font-size: medium;">We are here to make dreams come true, at least for my mom. My mom is a fanatic for gardens, flowers and all things nature. Since her trip was planned very last minute, we decided to drive to Netherlands for few days. Our time there coincided with the Tulip growing season. <br />
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On Friday we drove to Kleve Germany; we decided it would be best to spend the nights in Kleve due to its proximity to Netherlands. Bed and Breakfast Rebeige is outside the heart of town and isolated. With proper directions from the owner, we reached at 9pm, after a brief stop at a rest stop with our homemade Indian meal. It was my mom’s wish to eat homemade food on Friday since we’d eat out the other days so we were happy to oblige. The owner showed us to our rooms and explained the TV/DVD details. The room was spacious and moderately decorated with IKEA pieces. The bathroom is spacious with a walk in shower. Signs are everywhere of the home’s goal to be environmentally friendly; solar roof panels, asking to turn off all lights upon leaving, the rainwater is stored in tanks and used for shower and toilets.<br />
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The morning’s breakfast was a large spread with deli meats, fresh fruits, homemade bread, yogurt and freshly brewed coffee. The owner even offered to help us plan our car route from Haarlem to Leiden with few stops, one included Keukenhof. The drive from Kleve was a short one of 2 hours. Haarlem is a small town with few main squares (an Amsterdam suburb feel but yet with a charm of a small town). We drove through the town to proceed to the flower garden at Keukenhof. Allocate 2 hours minimum because it has greenhouses and outdoor gardens full of flowers (mostly tulips).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8jUn-Z0pu3vP8cg52tSNB9YzjkqRqjUOjGg6HkrTXLzELvsFRhrcRfgmWSjFpzrin2RXf8GSBpfIfUUoH88NPjVPpu9ILqUk0_8OTSJx0cqPaF4CDvECB_dI7zTbSgzWoACdWap2kUn1s/s1600/IMG_6375.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8jUn-Z0pu3vP8cg52tSNB9YzjkqRqjUOjGg6HkrTXLzELvsFRhrcRfgmWSjFpzrin2RXf8GSBpfIfUUoH88NPjVPpu9ILqUk0_8OTSJx0cqPaF4CDvECB_dI7zTbSgzWoACdWap2kUn1s/s320/IMG_6375.JPG" height="320" width="203" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEJn8EieBKe2kT8_NPPB3111JcFOjsFsndqPr8qyJK31pWuP68Z2Qg4FuzUC-Kp_FFccrwJVGII01nAraEYB0V04X89ukMiGYDFQI3FJVqmh_yOsxoAbHptnLMcbvgpwOAzJqokLWL8Dve/s1600/IMG_6385.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEJn8EieBKe2kT8_NPPB3111JcFOjsFsndqPr8qyJK31pWuP68Z2Qg4FuzUC-Kp_FFccrwJVGII01nAraEYB0V04X89ukMiGYDFQI3FJVqmh_yOsxoAbHptnLMcbvgpwOAzJqokLWL8Dve/s320/IMG_6385.JPG" height="320" width="203" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDmlDSHlzqAMRTA7A43KEiabd9OXS-uLYJTQSDiybj1B88SLkEuosOCWFqVbSOo9xAVTkhBGB8PN2INR_347YgAefRI4rcNPSoFtguANoPx9BegfBrX6k7WXy_4T3ae0rqp223j6Cj_vji/s1600/IMG_6366.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDmlDSHlzqAMRTA7A43KEiabd9OXS-uLYJTQSDiybj1B88SLkEuosOCWFqVbSOo9xAVTkhBGB8PN2INR_347YgAefRI4rcNPSoFtguANoPx9BegfBrX6k7WXy_4T3ae0rqp223j6Cj_vji/s320/IMG_6366.JPG" height="320" width="203" /></a><br />
After strolling through the gardens we drove to the open tulip fields. This was the dream my mom had of seeing tulips, endless rows of flowers.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXEC1NnKzM6OJ4h1mqFPEeuMWxQ6Y1qhsvSzBfWHwMzVZUtzhFgjl00EkQuYWG-BKwdZSjEda1VYuJZ2bH10oRQr6FFZ_zZS0fdE9gXfDtS414F73kAc48kDEQVwWkMOyCMswzKvxPZPXb/s1600/IMG_6411.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXEC1NnKzM6OJ4h1mqFPEeuMWxQ6Y1qhsvSzBfWHwMzVZUtzhFgjl00EkQuYWG-BKwdZSjEda1VYuJZ2bH10oRQr6FFZ_zZS0fdE9gXfDtS414F73kAc48kDEQVwWkMOyCMswzKvxPZPXb/s1600/IMG_6411.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;">This is also where parts of the bollywood (Hollywood + Bombay) movie Silsila was filmed. In addition to Keukenhof, the field of tulips was a charming experience.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPo0TlFw6vuhKrTiAfGxB__l0weJxcgiqtDLeXuhdrZLCQh8salXWQBBe4zbv-fO5wnruhcFjOZVwqSgm5LuqktuycE2jlW25SB36mMwnDqQzJpYbWXyIcUGy_eIPTYZaLwrYOxuz3IrT5/s1600/IMG_6475.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPo0TlFw6vuhKrTiAfGxB__l0weJxcgiqtDLeXuhdrZLCQh8salXWQBBe4zbv-fO5wnruhcFjOZVwqSgm5LuqktuycE2jlW25SB36mMwnDqQzJpYbWXyIcUGy_eIPTYZaLwrYOxuz3IrT5/s1600/IMG_6475.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;">We proceeded to drive to Leiden but without luck of finding tulip fields on either side of the road. Having a shorter day than planned we drove to Gouda for a quick stop. Unfortunately by 4:30-5pm on Saturday, most of the down was winding up for the day. Other than few restaurants preparing for dinner, both the farmer’s market and boutique shops were closing. We were hoping to buy some Gouda cheese but weren’t lucky. Walking up and down the small streets, the city felt reminiscent of Amsterdam. Like it’s older sister, Gouda sits on canals with row houses and constructed precisely like Amsterdam.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_BfOhKcg3-JmAh5ZOIpoBE08O9KJuQ12qR-XMr-ayChY7NOz7bjpRl8UCnUib-L-HAM9hyYYB7SmstkemswMJX-9-ItNQ4b8zPsKTfikUWvQB8IZDB3qTfku3rLC5Km9e1rufMafdlPCW/s1600/IMG_6486.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_BfOhKcg3-JmAh5ZOIpoBE08O9KJuQ12qR-XMr-ayChY7NOz7bjpRl8UCnUib-L-HAM9hyYYB7SmstkemswMJX-9-ItNQ4b8zPsKTfikUWvQB8IZDB3qTfku3rLC5Km9e1rufMafdlPCW/s320/IMG_6486.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a><br />
We ate dinner at Akropolis, a Greek restaurant, in Kleve. The multiple dining rooms are large spaces for parties. The restaurant serves many meals efficiently and the service is generous. The food is good and may offer best selection in the area. <br />
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<div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;">On Sunday we drove back home using the back roads of Germany, stopping in small towns for pictures and snacks.</span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYvaStVx23wKGVrKMdp2ZvkBWnn0Vfya0M_1J2aYFr8MTdZ-T2TjqfBjHHUvS-nierRj7oXwnRooUOxnRue-mQJHD8KUUtYsbxfMlEt2h9RIV_PkBVimdhKfkZsiTOCeent86kmANmwHkU/s1600/IMG_6496.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYvaStVx23wKGVrKMdp2ZvkBWnn0Vfya0M_1J2aYFr8MTdZ-T2TjqfBjHHUvS-nierRj7oXwnRooUOxnRue-mQJHD8KUUtYsbxfMlEt2h9RIV_PkBVimdhKfkZsiTOCeent86kmANmwHkU/s320/IMG_6496.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH4uB8FUsQrzIHvBVn-CHa8xuheR7_CoMcXz70GtOS-tOrIFRBKfej6UC0YALYvMyAUCz4rCgayQ1qQW_twcf_NnQSknhY3SCQC7pQ6MBQ_W4dC0PSxYAOCyB905VCM8o4bdNDZ-7wYl7u/s1600/IMG_6497.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH4uB8FUsQrzIHvBVn-CHa8xuheR7_CoMcXz70GtOS-tOrIFRBKfej6UC0YALYvMyAUCz4rCgayQ1qQW_twcf_NnQSknhY3SCQC7pQ6MBQ_W4dC0PSxYAOCyB905VCM8o4bdNDZ-7wYl7u/s320/IMG_6497.JPG" /></a><br />
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<div class="MsoNormal">The tulips were the prefect reason to see the quieter parts of Netherlands & Germany. Tip- Late March to early May is the best time to visit for peak bloom, check google for details before planning your trip. </div></span></div>krishwalahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14268236809577851121noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2493381014412529077.post-12343083413865632612014-04-25T14:42:00.002+02:002014-05-14T14:49:26.562+02:00Trash, Sorted Please <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span style="font-size: medium;">If you see people looking through trash cans, you are probably in Germany! We noticed people poking around in trash cans and thought odd! Once I saw a lady pull a plastic bottle out of the trash and walked on. <br />
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Which leads me to an important point, Germans are serious about trash. There are <a href="http://www.aliadventures.com/2013/02/how-to-throw-out-your-garbage-in-germany/">multiple</a> <a href="http://www.howtogermany.com/pages/recycling.html">entries</a> <a href="http://www.amiexpat.com/2008/03/10/sorting-trash-in-germany/">on the blogosphere</a> that explain the lengths Germans go to sort trash. The basic rules we follow: <br />
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1. Yellow bag is for unrecyclable plastic, plastic packaging (i.e. detergent can), foil and etc. <br />
2. Paper recycling includes all paper, pizza boxes and some cardboard boxes. (There is a blue trash can outside our building that gets the paper recycling.) <br />
3. Bio includes all compostable waste (coffee grinds, egg shells, fruit and vegetable waste). We unfortunately don’t have this in our building so I am forced to throw it in regular waste. <br />
4. Many plastic bottles (soda or water) and cans are paid with a Pfand (deposit), if you want your Pfand back, you have to take it back to the store for refund. <br />
5. Glass recycling includes wine bottles or glass bottles that don’t have a deposit. Even within that, there’s brown, green and white bottle separation. (The large glass recycling bins are throughout the city.) <br />
6. Regular trash is everything that doesn’t fit into any of the above categories. <br />
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We support this because the world has plenty of trash <a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2014/04/22/plastic-ocean-garbage_n_5191294.html">ending up in places</a> it should not! So sorting trash for appropriate bins is important; I wish America and India did the same. <br />
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So why are those people looking through trash? To get the deposit money that someone else threw away. The question I can’t answer is why go the lengths of looking through public trash to find money? (I know the obvious-duh answer, for money! But in a country that has social nets for low income people, money doesn’t seem like a good enough reason. Maybe it’s the bottom line to help save the environment. At least I hope it is. These trash browsers are helping the environment in some way, even if in their mind they’re doing it for the money.) The husband points out that is idealistic; people, everywhere, are greedy. Bleh. <br />
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At <a href="http://porkbierbelly.blogspot.de/2012/08/free-music-in-park.html">festivals</a> in the park or around the city, there's always people walking around searching for bottles, cans and other valuable things. </div></span>krishwalahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14268236809577851121noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2493381014412529077.post-87097568093189340992014-04-04T10:00:00.000+02:002014-04-25T14:42:15.599+02:00Bärlauch Pesto Recipe<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span style="font-size: medium;">I never shared the recipe for <a href="http://porkbierbelly.blogspot.de/2014/03/barlauch.html">Bärlauch (Ramp) pesto</a>. As planned, I bought two more bunches and made more. I froze most of it to last through the summer. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1JYakRVxSkf4dKsHrGbVEjt3rpTzNZ-kiFqZg3STPBUgnLjK1Fd0L50XFyKBwNTFtwib7qGAj9rfwmjCap_ygqc-4OY9ItPpYmhDv9t3oeZMSvawjoX6TP0HlPOf86v7WnrkHZvEyuKk3/s1600/2014-03-23+13.42.32.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1JYakRVxSkf4dKsHrGbVEjt3rpTzNZ-kiFqZg3STPBUgnLjK1Fd0L50XFyKBwNTFtwib7qGAj9rfwmjCap_ygqc-4OY9ItPpYmhDv9t3oeZMSvawjoX6TP0HlPOf86v7WnrkHZvEyuKk3/s400/2014-03-23+13.42.32.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></span></div><b>Bärlauch Pesto</b><br />
1 bunch (20 stalks) Bärlauch<br />
1/4 cup walnuts<br />
1/3 cup grated pecorino cheese <br />
1/4 teaspoon kosher or sea salt (if using table salt, reducing the amount) <br />
freshly grated black pepper <br />
1/3-1/2 cup olive oil<br />
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Wash the Bärlauch and dry on a tea towel. <br />
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Place all the ingredients (except olive oil) in a food processor. Process until finely chopped, but not smooth. Drizzle olive oil in slowly through the processor tube. If the food processor doesn’t have a tube, add 1- 2 tablespoons, process, scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add 1- 2 tablespoons of oil and repeat. <br />
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As you scrape down the sides, you’ll get an idea for how much olive oil the pesto needs, use as much as you think it needs. The pesto should be smooth when it’s ready. <br />
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Taste for seasoning and adjust with salt and pepper. (Use it for pasta, sandwiches, eggs, lentils and even as a dip for bread.) </span></div>krishwalahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14268236809577851121noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2493381014412529077.post-53282883682354290552014-04-01T14:24:00.000+02:002014-04-01T14:53:50.285+02:00Library<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span style="font-size: medium;">Save the environment and join your local library! That’s the saying, right? If not, it should be. As an adult I am a big fan of libraries, not only the book borrowing but also a place for children and adults to meet and be part of a community. <br />
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When we moved here we registered at the Library and got our card. Initially we borrowed books and movies regularly. I racked up couple overdue fines, as well. And then the borrowing slowed down, drastically. (I discovered we could access our old library database (from USA) online and can borrow books to read on our tablets. All around awesome. ) We eventually did find that the English movie and book selection was limited, hence the lack of borrowing. <br />
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Much later, we received a bill from the library. 10 Euros and 0.30 cents for overdue book. I inquired with the library about the fines was told the 10 Euro was due to the 0.30 cent fine. When asked to explain further, the librarian said the 0.30 cent fine was sent to our original address and the mail came back. So, they had to look up our information on the internal city database and resend the mail to the new (current) address. I remembered the older address the library had on file was at the hotel <a href="http://porkbierbelly.blogspot.de/2011/06/trials-of-apartment-hunting-or.html">we spend far too long</a>. Upon arriving in Germany, we registered at the Einwohneramt (registration office) and to obtain resident visas (and work visa for the husband). Upon moving (within or out of city or country), the registration office has to be notified. The government (and Germans) are strict about this. At the library, I realized many public (and maybe some private?) offices can access the database for resident information. This is where German efficiency makes sense though some non Germans have concerns about “being traced.“ <br />
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What was most shocking was the 10 Euro fine for an overdue book; essentially the library is charging us for doing the work to find our new address on a database. Excessive. <br />
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The 10 euro fine isn’t significant (it's the principle) because the library is a great resource and the Nürnberg library has a cozy café attached. They serve homemade cakes and some salads, sandwiches and quiches with drinks; everything I’ve had was good. <br />
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This post is a mathematical analysis of what the husband and I believe happened as far as the library tracking down our new address and re-mailing the 0.30 cent fine with the added 10 Euro fine. If there is another possibility that you know of or have experienced, please let us know. </div></span>krishwalahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14268236809577851121noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2493381014412529077.post-69384909750258762642014-03-25T12:26:00.001+01:002014-04-01T14:18:38.440+02:00Bärlauch<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><span style="font-size: medium;">I’ve raved about our wonderfully warm February and March so when I saw the first of spring produce it was reassuring. <br />
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After moving here, during our first spring I saw plenty of Bärlauch at the farmer’s market. I inquired, smelled and even tasted the thing but couldn’t exactly place it. Thanks to Google, I found out Bärlauch is just ramps (in America). It is a spring herb that tastes like a cross between garlic and leeks. It’s garlicky in taste but mild like a leek. The best way to use it is pesto and in US I sautéed it with cooked pasta and topped it with cheese. <br />
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This past Saturday (my) farm stand had Bärlauch, the last of the day. It sells out quick especially because it’s in season for very short period (approximately 4 weeks)!<br />
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The pesto is so good, we’ve added it to many things (breakfast sandwich, lentil salad, homemade veggie burgers and on toast). I am planning to buy few more bunches this weekend to make pesto to freeze for later. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkQqEyMT6TPxEhJ8KWBly25zT_UXkUnnFZtx22dbVSWC0hwfxTFLB9yGA3rtWPiURsT96mL6HOnA_jGjcneXTQ5_cO_xyMIwCiDdVGb2o4hYU7DKpvAPkku_D03FlVznqku5JeP6Sl8pQ0/s1600/IMG_6344.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkQqEyMT6TPxEhJ8KWBly25zT_UXkUnnFZtx22dbVSWC0hwfxTFLB9yGA3rtWPiURsT96mL6HOnA_jGjcneXTQ5_cO_xyMIwCiDdVGb2o4hYU7DKpvAPkku_D03FlVznqku5JeP6Sl8pQ0/s200/IMG_6344.JPG" height="320" width="205" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4NldLA-rg8lMcA1Tq-ACE5SmnRY3N7YsE4RTdKdLuYvDA_Q_ie4qnGv1eyE6iFsEn1BONcLiDnNYEwmo7RhhhtEM4ELNBS5b0WK1vkT9AXvlvIuxhu8KCj1fmT9Pfpjxpkss0A0Yf_Il2/s1600/IMG_2745%5B1%5D.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4NldLA-rg8lMcA1Tq-ACE5SmnRY3N7YsE4RTdKdLuYvDA_Q_ie4qnGv1eyE6iFsEn1BONcLiDnNYEwmo7RhhhtEM4ELNBS5b0WK1vkT9AXvlvIuxhu8KCj1fmT9Pfpjxpkss0A0Yf_Il2/s320/IMG_2745%5B1%5D.JPG" height="320" width="205" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8rBruy5NBr34gF4Qjmt705CdBzV4TNE0Et0qtn5NUnrlMgyEj-cknxY12cXPVQU2KmMTdlrEZ-By79CuTGwF6VUcS_wMmUmgiw8IpC3PK-m3q1t6lH8FQ1pbHrI1nJy2JAf40BM0uRsFG/s1600/IMG_2747%5B1%5D.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8rBruy5NBr34gF4Qjmt705CdBzV4TNE0Et0qtn5NUnrlMgyEj-cknxY12cXPVQU2KmMTdlrEZ-By79CuTGwF6VUcS_wMmUmgiw8IpC3PK-m3q1t6lH8FQ1pbHrI1nJy2JAf40BM0uRsFG/s320/IMG_2747%5B1%5D.JPG" height="320" width="205" /></a><br />
(Random note- speaking of veggie burger, any ideas or suggestions on making a good one? I’ve tried couple recipes and haven’t had success. The first one was with black beans and the second time was chickpeas with quinoa. Both were fine but tasted mushy and more like a lentil patty and less like a veggie burger. I am taking suggestions so feel free to let me know.) </span></div>krishwalahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14268236809577851121noreply@blogger.com1