Food Porn

The foods we will miss dearly.

drei im weckla (mustard optional)

breze (toppings: TRY THEM ALL! love obatzda & radishes)

Döner

leberkäse mit brotchen (compacted meat combination)

Nürnbergers with potato salad

Not pictured, the variety of breads and their distinctive tastes. 

Another favorite, wine down anyFridays. Europe's charm of outdoor seating with a glass of wine (or bier) will be sorely missed.   

Breweries or Brauerei

Germany, especially Bavaria, is known for Biergarten culture so as one of the last posts I want to share information on the ones we’ve tried and enjoyed.

Bier has been around as long as the Germans and it gained further popularity from the monks brewing at the monasteries. Germany = Bier. There is no shortage of ales and lagers. this explains thoroughly the beginning of German bier making and its history.

I’ve mentioned how great bier is around here and its great appreciation; this is more about the biergartens.

The food is typical and varies by the region. Around this area it’s schnitzel, breze (pretzel), dark rye bread with obatzda, sausages, Käsespätzle (homemade egg noodles with cheese and fried onions), and sauerbraten (slow cooked beef). Obatzda is a cheese spread, great on pretzels, dark bread or by itself (if you’re obsessed like me). It is made with cream cheese, camembert

Breweries, we are familiar with, in the area are Lederer, Schanzenbräu, and Altstadthof.

The points of note are they all offer tasty bier and enjoyable outdoor atmosphere. They offer wooden tables and benches for seating. At the larger ones there are two seating sections: self service and servers. The self service is for customers to order food at the window and take it to their tables.

Lederer is the largest of the breweries in the area. Amongst others it has unfiltered weizen and pils; both fresher in taste than their bottled counterparts. The food is average but plenty for an evening at the garten. Schanzenbräu brews rot (red), helles (light) and schwarz (black) bier. Our personal favorite is rotbier because its sweet and slightly hoppy and overall a smooth finish. Out of the three in the city, Schanzenbräu has the best food. There is a specials board for the day and everything is delicious.

Altstadthof is within the castle walls and also makes rotbier along with others. Since we’re fans of the amber rotbier, we only get that here. Food is okay and could be better; it tastes like it’s premade from the morning or previous day. Best bet for food is Nürnberger sausages. There are lengthy tours through the keller (basement) on weekends, call ahead for English tour. The garten is smaller than most but there’s always room for one more on the bench.

Meister is further away, 50 kilometers from Nürnberg. (In autobahn terms, that’s 45 minutes.) If given the option to go to Meister regularly, we would. The food and bier are both perfect. The brewmaster serves during weekends. The food is all freshly made, tastes homemade and filling. During the weekends they are always busy but especially for fish (Carp) season. Making reservations for lunch or dinner are highly recommended. Also their Schäufele is outstanding therefore when making reservations tell them to save a plate or two of Schäufele (it is only available at lunch). Their garten is the smallest so plan to arrive early for a table outside. There isn’t a lot to see or do around there but the food and bier are worth the outing.

Biergartens are around many blocks and in parks so we say if it’s crowded on a nice, sunny day, it’s a good sign the locals are enjoying their bier in the garden.

Spain for a Special Occasion

For a momentous birthday, big 30!, the husband and I booked a trip to Spain for a week. And best yet, the best friend also a traveler at heart and cook/foodie by work agreed to join with her then husband. I had anticipated this trip because visiting mainland Spain was a dream of mine. Ever since I took 7 years of Spanish in high school and college, I’d fantasized living in a Spanish countryside. Although we didn’t go and stay forever, it was one of the best trips we’ve taken in the last 3 years. It is hard to declare any particular trip as the best or most favorite, because like all your children (how do I know this? I don’t because we don’t have kids) each are special in their own right but there’s one that stands out. Our week in Spain was that. Now let me tell you why and how.

The best friend came few days early to spend time in Germany and then the three of us met her husband in Barcelona to start our week long adventure. With her help we planned a precise itinerary for the trip: Barcelona- Catalan- Rioja- Tarragona.

Our flight arrived in the evening so we spent the night in Barcelona. We had a small window of daylight therefore went to Bodega Manolo for dinner and lots of wine. It’s a family restaurant and no one speaks English. The following dishes were notable. Grilled cheese with grilled veggies; creamy and fresh. Potatoes with aioli wasn’t anything we had tried before, potatoes were tossed with aioli and topped with herb oil. Thick toast or water cracker topped with brie and Iberico ham, broiled and cooked perfectly, also creamy and delicious. The salad with fish was overpriced and underwhelming. Shrimp with sweet and acidic mayo was fresh but bland. The mayo might have worked better for dipping bread than with shrimp. They offer free bread & olives to all guests. We ordered a house red wine that paired with the meal. The family serves memorable food and provides warm service.

After checking out the next morning we were greeted by a driver in front of our bed & breakfast. The older gentleman was very sweet and led us to the large van he’d brought. He didn’t say anything about the planned day. Clearly there was a surprise that the husband and the best friend had planned and my anticipation peaked. Jorge said he was from the area and is familiar with all the back roads. We drove couple hours to Abadal Vineyard in Bages. Amazed by the beauty in nature and surroundings I couldn’t believe we were starting this trip with a wine tour and tasting. The tour was 90 minutes and includes and thorough explanation of the local grapes and wine making process; the winery is a family operation since 1200s. We tasted various combination of tempranillo, Merlot, Chardonnay, Sauvignon blanc and Picapoll. The last is a local varietal, tastes aromatic and fresh, ideal white for summer nights, with or without food. Another favorite was Merlot Reserve.

We then drove to Montserrat 20 minutes from the winery for the biggest surprise. We arrived at L'Angle in Sant Fruitos de Bages. We were I was informed this would be a multi-course tasting menu. We could choose wine pairings or by the bottle; we opted for couple bottles. The meal was not 3, 9 or 10 courses, it was a 12 courses! Some of the courses included Mojito, a minty/white foam with liquor, Parmesan Gnocchi with broth was liquid parmesan filled gnocchi with broth, Oysters with sour apple pepper and butter which oyster wrapped in apple slices, cubed apple with a hint of mint and sugar all topped with frozen apple. Foie Gras with pear in wine sauce and cocoa and Sichuan pepper: foie gras ice cream with pear in wine gelee and Sichuan pepper chips/crumbs. False egg white with Iberico ham: mashed potato used to make the egg white cradling a fresh yolk and topped with a cheese cracker and ham; this dish to me tasted like breakfast. One of our petits fours was lipstick of berry ice.

Precision of each course was flawless and words cannot justify the intensity of flavors and the immense knowledge of the chefs creating thought provoking food. I had never tried Molecular gastronomy before this meal and I am a fan. The service is attentive and courteous. The restaurant is spacious with modern design. In my day to day cooking, I wouldn’t cook like this and I wouldn’t serve this food in a (future) food business (though never say never), but I would go back to l’Angle in a heartbeat for the gastronomical treat. After lunch we learned l’Angle is a Michelin star restaurant, fittingly.

Jorge then drove us to his farmhome in the Spanish countryside. The home is tucked away in the hills and windy roads it offers basic amenities and is comfortable for 2-3 couples in a group. We napped for the afternoon and I awoke to another surprise; a cooking class with a local restaurant’s chef in the kitchen of the farmhome. It was convenient to stay put for the evening with a home cooked meal. We learned to make Romesco (tomatoes, red peppers and nuts) sauce to eat with Calçots. Calçots are from the onion family, look like a large green onions and are eaten in March in Spain. The chef grilled and fried them. They taste like a cross between onion and leek and are sweet when grilled, ideal accompaniment for Romesco sauce. To eat them, peel the outer (burnt) layers, and dip in the romesco sauce. We all enjoyed grilled Calçots with Romesco sauce better than fried. We also learned to make Trinxat de la Cerdanya, mashed potatoes with cabbage and ham, served with Pork belly. It tasted of grandma’s cooking; comforting and filling. Also two types of tortillas: one traditional and one with eggplant and cheese; both were tasty. There is a technique to making Tortilla and it was nice to learn from the chef; the key is to whip the eggs separately in a bowl, keeping aside while frying the potatoes and onions in a pan with lots of olive oil (important!!), then combining the veggies with the whipped eggs before cooking in a skillet for the final dish. We made Crema Catalunya, a crème brulee type dessert but simpler to make and highly preferred.



The next morning we had a simple breakfast of juice, cheese and Iberico before brief sightseeing around the small towns. Stone houses dot the landscape of the countryside; prior to 1800s there were vineyards throughout but due to a plague that wiped out the grapes now it’s bare. Rosemary grows wild everywhere in this region. We hurried back to cook another meal with the chef and learned poti-poti, paella and candied almonds. Poti-Poti is a salad made with olives, baccala (salted cod), onions and boiled potatoes. It was unusual and pleasant. Paella is meatier in this region as opposed to the seafood available in Valencia. This particular was made with pork, sausages, and mushrooms, deeply flavored with a tomato/onion sofrito and satisfying. The key to Paella is Bomba rice, no exceptions.

We proceeded with our journey the next day to Rioja from Barcelona. We rented a car from Centaur at Barcelona Airport to which we say don’t bother! Their shuttle operates every 30 minutes and is annoyingly difficult to find at the airport so we wasted time. Once we got our rented car, we stopped in at Zaragosa for lunch at Casa Emilio. There we each had 3 course menu del dia, which included lentil soup, pork cutlets with potatoes and a flan. The soup was made with Puy (French) lentils, bacon, carrots and garlic for flavorings. The whole garlic cloves melted in the soup when pierced, amazing! Pork and roasted potatoes were okay because the pork was bland and overcooked. Flan was covered in whipped cream which surprised me, why cover a homemade dessert in cream? It was good. The service is friendly and the price for the meal was reasonable. For freshly made food this is a good on-the-go stop.

La Rioja from Barcelona is a 5- 6 hour journey with many tolls between Barcelona and Rioja, approximately 50 Euros. Even with the tolls to see the region and visit multiple wineries, having a car is necessary. The landscape is covered in newly planted grape trees. The region has hundreds of wineries in the area. All the towns along the wine route are small with tourism as their major industry. We stayed in the town of Abalos at Villa de Abalos. The population is 300 people and is quaint. The villa is spacious with each room gracefully decorated and well connected for wifi; both impossible to find in Europe. Owner is friendly and helpful and recommended dinner at Terete (in the town of Haro). As a group we ordered roasted leg of lamb, tortilla with chorizo and kidney & livers. The kidneys and livers were cooked in a rich red wine sauce with rosemary and remarkable. We also had beans with Chorizo which was slightly under salted; the best friend, however, liked the dish. Tortilla with Chorizo was a little undone yielding a mouthwateringly good dish. Finally the lamb was supposed to be showstopper, and it was underwhelming. Salt shaker was placed at each table to season accordingly, making it difficult to judge how much each person likes. Price of dinner was reasonable however lamb was pricey. If in the area, Terete is acceptable for a meal.

We visited wineries based on location and proximity to the Villa. We learned many large and small wineries grow their own grapes but also purchase grapes from other wine producers. Tempranillo & granache blend are the most common, full bodied and dry. We found the wine here to be too strong; we thought we’ enjoy Rioja wine and sadly that wasn’t the case.

In between wine tastings we stopped in at Asador Arina. I can’t find the address or the town on internet so here’s a brief summary. We had menu del dia: artichokes dipped in batter and fried, fried fish or filled red piquillo peppers in tomato sauce. Everything tasted great; this is for the blue collar working man’s lunch, hence not being able to find online. Hopefully it will be searchable online in future.

With belly full of wine and brief nap we agreed to dine at Villa de Abalos with a multi course menu. My 1st course was grilled Artichokes, 2nd course lamb chops and 3rd course chocolate, molten lava, cake. The lamb was cooked to perfection and everything I had was spectacular. The husband ordered tomato & avocado terrine with caramelized goat cheese, piquillo peppers stuffed with shrimp and hake and the same dessert. He said he was impressed with the food also and friendly service. Dinner reservations are only available for guests of Villa de Abalos (that could change in the future). Wine and bread are served on the house.

From Rioja we visited Tarragona to visit ruins and spend time at the beach. The town draws tourists for the Roman ruins and Amphitheater. Due to the cool weather we opted to tour the ruins, World UNESCO site, before heading north. We found a restaurant on one of the side streets that looked promising for lunch. We had mussels, cod with romesco sauce, and shrimp risotto for him; everything was adequate but not outstanding. Even with our lackluster lunch, we believe the goal in tourist towns is to find a restaurant on a side street for possibility of great food.

The aim in Barcelona was to see some sights and eat our way through the city. We wandered the streets of the city few hours after arriving from Tarragona. We found few bars nearby and stopped in for wine and tapas. Around 10pm, the husband and I walked to Bar Celta to consume more food. Celta is known for Octopus, pulpo, and we highly recommend going there for just that. Don’t bother ordering anything else because many tapas are premade and heated before serving. The bar is loud with locals, drinking beer and enjoying greasy food.

On my actual birthday we went to La Cova Fumada for lunch. There is a menu with all the items and we ordered few different things: artichokes, garbanzo with butifarra, sardines, pan con aglio (bread with garlic), Pulpo, Bomba and sangria. Cova Fumada is known for everything they prepare and Bomba is especially on that list. It’s mashed potatoes and ham mixture dipped in batter and breadcrumbs and fried. Butifarra is sausage made with pork and spices. With the creamy garbanzo beans, it was incredible. Artichokes were grilled and served with butter sauce; they were so good we ordered another plate. Sardines were served whole with garlic & chive sauce. Pulpo was the only thing that was overcooked and not a favorite. Everything we had that day was exquisite. This restaurant has mainted its reputation for the food from locals and tourists, making it very busy (and loud). It is small therefore sharing tables and sitting with strangers is expected. It was crowded during our time and the servers were constantly yelling “pardon” to move around the room. When the server recommends something, get it; that’s how we ended up with artichokes. They don’t take reservations so get there early and put your name on the waitlist. We had a 45 minute wait. They are only open for lunch and close the door at 3pm, no special requests. The food and attentive service are the only reason it’s always busy.

That night’s dinner was at Bodega Manolo because we knew it’d be good. In addition to some of the same items, we tried new ones. Everything was impressive, again.

On our final full day we visited the Picasso museum. If art is of an interest, Picasso museum is a must. Then us ladies headed to Chocolate museum for a tasty tour. Hoping to see most of the sights that day we walked to Parc Guell and Gaudi’s creation. Both are unique and an artistic expression of an architect. We walked to La Sagrada Familia and upon seeing the lines we photographed the church from the outside and left. After the visits, we headed to dinner hoping to find a restaurant on my list. One was closed but in one of the street squares we saw smoke and smelled grilling. We stumbled into a neighborhood Calçots festival, by sight and smell. They were serving grilled Calçots, romesco sauce, baguette, sausages, and wine for 12 Euros. The festival had high top bar tables for people to eat while standing; some brought their own lawn chairs. It was fun to enjoy this open festival in the middle of the city. For “dessert” everyone got an orange.

The best friend and I made time to visit two markets in the city. Boqueria is the famous one with many tourists photographing the food. Although touristy, it is nice to wander and see Spanish products on display. The other market was relaxed and full of locals buying food for the evening. We bought olive oil, garbanzos and chorizo at the second market. For an authentic experience, visit one of the lesser known (to tourists) markets; I hear the prices are lower than at Boqueria.

This entire trip proved that Spanish people are warm and accommodating; and the culture lends itself to good natured and likeable people. That week we fulfilled our goal to eat well. I am grateful for a husband and best friend that helped plan one of the best birthdays, ever; I couldn’t have planned a better way to enter a new decade.

Turkish in Nürnberg

I’ve mentioned that we really enjoy Turkish food around here and remembered I never shared the restaurant information we visit.

If in the mood for kebaps, slow cooked meat or Döner, Mevlana is the place to go. It is minutes from the Plärrer bus/ubahn stop.

For dinner we normally order a meze platter to share which includes tzatziki, beans in tomato sauce and baba ganoush. Then we share a main platter which is either a braised meat dish or kebaps. The kebaps (ground meat- lamb, beef or combination) are skewered and grilled and served with bulgur, rice and spicy pickle. The braised meat dishes come with a salad. For our last dinner we went crazy and got too many things. All good, of course. We ordered lamb kebap, chicken hot pot and manti. The hot pot is chicken with peppers and tomatoes cooked in a paprika sauce. Manti are dumplings made from dough and topped with yogurt sauce, chili oil and herbs (mint or oregano). Dumplings with yogurt sauce doesn’t sound appetizing but it’s superb. Ayran, homemade yogurt drink (distant cousin of Indian lassi- savory buttermilk drink), is a must. All in all, everything is delicious at Mevlana. On the go, Döner from their pick up window is great.

Also for döner the husband’s favorite is on Schlehengasse 31, next to Irish Castle Pub. (The restaurant is on the path coming from Plärrer ubahn station, underground, going into Altstadt- old city. The restaurant has changed owners, staff and name and the food has improved drastically. Look for the Irish Pub location on GPS or google maps and it’s next door.) The other that everyone loves is Atlantik döner on Karolinenstraße. They make their own bread and it’s different from most döners.

Now that I’ve shared all of our favorites, I am hungry.

Kaffee & Kuchen

The tradition to take a break in the afternoon for a coffee (and cake) has been around for quite some time, in Europe I presume, but especially in Germany. We learned of this from some friends we’ve made after moving here. She’s a retired teacher, married to her husband for many years and we enjoy spending time with them because they’re full of stories and life. She described when she was a young girl her mother baked 2-3 cakes/tarts each Sunday. The family would eat the desserts in the afternoon or after dinner. The husband shares examples when the department has coffee after lunch or in the afternoon for a quick pick me up.



We are not only lucky to live in the city but 100 meters from one of the best confectionary/cake/pastry shop, Cafe Neef. This is also very dangerous as I often want to stop in to buy a slice of freshly made cake. I have been good but it is always tempting because the aromas emanating from the shop are heavenly.

Having learned of this tradition I’m convinced. I love the idea of having cake for the afternoon with a cup of coffee. Consequently I’ve been known to, on occasion, bake a cake or tart for the week. It’s a wonderfully good way to enjoy life’s simple pleasures. Of course, everything in moderation! Sugar and flour, tsk tsk, but life is too short sans indulgence.

multi-city trip to Portugal

Hope you’re ready for lots of trip reports because they’re coming. I am on a mission to write and share about the trips we’ve done, in a short time. Mind you, some are old because I’ve been procrastinating, busy, busy procrastinating.

Our late winter, early spring trip was to Portugal. We’d plan to start in Porto, drive our way down to Lisbon and then drive up the coast back to Porto. Porto is a wine town with plenty of port. It has port cellars because in 18th century producers grew grapes in the Duoro Valley (Pinhao), made port onsite and transported it to the cellars in Porto on river for aging.

Due to our delayed flight, we arrived to the bed & breakfast, The White Box, at 1 am. The room was on the top floor in an attic with a skylight, normally that’s a bonus, however due to constant downpour we barely slept the first night. (The husband and I big fans for thunderstorms, rain and sleeping through dull weather but we were extremely tired that night and couldn’t get much sleep due to the rain.) The next morning we spoke with our b&b host about the weather forecast and she agreed it was gloom (and doom) and the rain wasn’t stopping. Our B&B host said this winter has been unusual in that it’s rained nonstop. Although it rains in February, it’s intermittently. We left grey German weather for grey Portugal weather.



Post breakfast, we reevaluated our schedule and considered an early trip home. Then we agreed we would stay and make the best of our time.

Without a guide or guidebook we wondered around the city on our own. Porto is hilly with few memorable sights including Ponte de Dom (bridge) and the Cathedral. Porto is scattered with tiles on the streets and in public areas. We could’ve easily spent two whole days in Porto but the weather kept us mostly indoors or away from the sights.

For lunch we had two restaurants on our list but couldn’t find either of them and ended up at a no-name place in a small strip mall. The husband ordered a sandwich, Francesinha, while I ordered the daily special. When our food arrived, we realized we should’ve shared the sandwich because it was a hefty portion. The sandwich was ham, grilled veal, melted cheese and a special sauce. The sauce tasted similar to tomato soup and béchamel sauce in one with a touch of hot pepper, cayenne. Although each component was tasty, the sauce made the sandwich a hit. I asked the server if my soup was caldo verde, (Portuguese vegetable soup with potatoes and cabbage or greens) and she said it wasn’t. It was greens cooked in a creamy broth and the greens weren’t overcooked and limpy even after long- cooking in broth. I’d say it was caldo verde and very good. My main dish was Baccalao (salted cod) topped with breadcrumbs and a side of vegetables. The cod was fresh and appetizing but the crumbs and vegetables were not.

Other than sight see Porto, we managed to get a tasting of port at Taylor’s. They offer 3 tastings in the price: dry white that drink like an aperitif, LBV (?) and a 10 year port. In addition to the 3, we bought a tasting of 20 year port. Both the aperitif and LBV was surprising good, above our anticipation. Better yet the husband joked we like cheap wine; that might be true but we like what we like.

We spent couple hours at our cozy bed & breakfast. For dinner we called a taxi to PapaVinhos, highly recommended from a friend. There we ordered pate, tuna salad with mayo, onions and capers. I liked it because I always like that combination but the husband didn’t care for it. For dinner we shared clams in garlic sauce & grilled octopus served with greens and potatoes. Clams cooked in garlic sauce. The chef used generous amounts of garlic and olive oil which is always. While the seafood was perfectly seasoned, the potatoes and greens were not salted. The restaurant host was extremely friendly and suggested a wonderful white wine to pair with dinner; his service made our dinner unforgettable. He even ordered a taxi for us.

Both our host and the B&B were wonderful. The b&B is a gem, our room 6 was spacious and felt like spending time in a friend’s luxurious guest room. The room is in the attic so be prepared to climb some narrow stairs. The host serves freshly baked cakes daily. The host helped us with our day planning to sightsee Porto.

Off to Coimbra, a historic university town on a hill. The architecture is the reason to visit. Most buildings are still being used for classes and offices. We couldn’t get audio for a self guided tour at the university because the office was on a lunch break from 12- 2. And unfortunately the cathedral was closed when we visited.



We found O Serenata and stopped in to find locals eating lunch. I got grilled squid with potatoes, spinach and black eyed peas and he ordered fish with salad. His main dish came with a legume soup which was good but under seasoned. My squid was overdone but the black eyed peas tasted like grandma made them and a winner. His fish was oily and bland, worst yet the salad greens still had dirt on them.

Initially we left Porto with Lisbon as the end destination in mind but due to the gorgeous sunny weather, we stopped in Coimbra for a stop. With or without the guide and tours, Coimbra was worth the short visit.

The distance from Porto to Lisbon is doable in an afternoon, with or without a stop.

After checking into our bed & breakfast/hostel, we headed to dinner in Lisbon at Solar dos Presuntos. The restaurant was extremely busy and didn’t have tables for guests that didn’t make reservations. The host made a makeshift table for us, by the door. Adequate but it was rather awkward and noisy. We were hurriedly asked to order and we picked garlic shrimp and Lamprey escabeche. Lamprey is a fish that looks like a snake. The escabeche was thinly sliced and served cold. It tastes like dark meaty fish. The shrimp were good but not extraordinary. The service was lackluster, the prices high and the locals were treated much more favorably than the tourists. We chose Solar because of the reviews and recommendations from local bloggers and were disappointed. Blasphemy, I know. I’d say save your money for somewhere else.

That night, hungry for more food we stopped in at Prego Sandwiches. Prego is a steak or veal sandwich that’s gained popularity in Lisbon and normally eaten after a hefty seafood meal. Prego Sandwiches is running on that theme and offers 6- 8 sandwiches. We shared a Marialva with traditional bacon and mustard. They offer beer and wine at the bar. The atmosphere is comfortable while the interior is modern (attracts the hipster crowd). The sandwich was acceptable but the meat was medium well, borderline well done. I’d give Prego a try again, with local beer and a sandwich. Next time, I would ask the server to cook the meat a little less, medium rare or medium.

The first day in Lisbon was a wash out, literally. It rained all day and we were wet and cold going from one place to another. About that rain…. goodness. We had breakfast in bed because the husband surprised me, for the heck of it. He is a keeper! Then we walked to Metro, bought the 24 hour metro pass for 6 Euros/person + 0.50 cent for the card. The card can be renewed. Public transportation was cheap in Portugal. Most importantly, it’s convenient and the locals use it as well.



Even with the rain, we went to Castello San Jorge and didn’t go inside because the English tour was offered in the morning and we’d missed it. Instead we walked to National Pantheon. The museum houses Vasco de Gama monument and history of important Portuguese figures. We learned Portugal was under a dictatorship until 1974, shocking. And Antonio Spínola was instrumental in bringing down the government.

After the museum we went to Bon Jardim for lunch. This is the place to get piri piri chicken and maybe some sides. For two people the owner, I believe, suggested a whole chicken to share. The chicken is marinated in the piri piri sauce and roasted on a rotisserie. The chicken is life changing and Bon Jardim deserves a visit. Not only is the chicken flavorful, it’s spicy with a good kick and each table has the piri piri sauce to add to each bite. Add at your own risk because it is extremely spicy but addictive. With a half bottle of wine, we were happy. The restaurant is a modest and attracts the (mostly blue collar) locals and some tourists while the service is thoughtful. Come here for the chicken and leave happy and full.

Post lunch was good time to head back and relax at the room. We headed to Cervejaria Ramiro; it’s a beer house and came highly recommended. Anthony Bourdain visited with his show and I was nervous if it was overrun with tourists. We arrived at 6:30, earlier than the typical Portuguese dinner time, 8:30- 9pm. After our beer order the older gentleman that was our server brought an iPad with all the seafood and fish available for the day. We started with shrimp. Then we ordered oysters on the half shell. The shrimp were steamed and sea salted. The oysters were briny, salty and fresh. Both the shrimp and oysters were ordered by other tables and thankfully we had as well because they were fantastic. Then a plate of tiger prawns; they were halved, grilled and brushed with butter. This was a first for us and we were happy to try them here. Others ordered crab and goose barnacles; during crab and barnacle season try them at Cervejaria Ramiro. Both are pricy so be prepared to spend some cash. We finished our dinner with a steak prego, as dessert, like Anthony Bourdain recommended. Yes, that’s right steak sandwich for dessert; when in Portugal…. The steak was marinated in oil and garlic, cooked rare – medium rare, sliced and served in a bun. The sandwich was served with some garlic. It was life altering, better than the prego from Prego.

The food at Ramiro arrived promptly. The older gentleman looked like he’s been working there for decades and is attentive with all his guests; our beers were refilled regularly. Even with TV exposure Ramiro hasn’t lost its traditional beer house touch and serves memorable food. Fresh seafood comes with a price and a hefty one at that but we nonetheless insist on having a meal here.



We had a schedule for the next full day in Lisbon. First, Jerónimos Monastery is a 20- 30 minute bus ride from Lisbon. It was built in 15th century and is now a UNESCO site. Kings and queens used the monastery as a meditation place. Audio guide tour is essential to understand the history and architecture. The monastery has a church which is included in the tour. The layout is open with a courtyard in the middle. Monastery feels spacious while the church is enclosed and dark.

The Belém pastry, Pastel de Nata, was first created by the monks from the monastery and have become famous for their delectable. We agreed it was fine. Many say the Belém pastry is a must; if you’re in the area try it but it’s not worth the trip.



Before heading back north in our car, we headed to the tile museum in Lisbon. It houses pieces from 18th, 19th and 20th century, Arabic & Spanish influence, the history and evolution of tile making. Due to an earthquake most of the city was destroyed, including renowned tiles. Lisbon panorama on the top floor reveals the city, in tiles, from before the quake. In addition to the museum many stations and city sidewalks display tile work evidence Portuguese love of tile art.

Sintra is a small town 20- 30 kilometers from Lisbon. It is one of the only places we visited that has many castles in a small area. The drive is easy but trains take tourists from the city to Sintra regularly. After wondering around the main drag to find a lunch spot we decided on Restaurant Bristol. Sintra’s proximity to the ocean would warrant unforgettable seafood/fish meals but due to the ongoing downpours the fisherman didn’t fish because of high seas. The server at Bristol suggested a fresh fish and baccalau (salt cod) gratin. I opted for grilled squid and the husband for gratin. The squid was perfectly grilled and delicious. The gratin was shredded potatoes with salt cod and spices; it tasted of American potato hash. This lunch could’ve easily gone the other way since the restaurant seems like a tourist trap but overall the food was good.

For dessert we circled Sintra multiple times to learn Sapa, a bakery, is closer to the train station. Sapa is known for queijadas, local pastry, filled with brown sugar and crispy exterior. The exterior can be best described as a wonton shell that’s fried or baked. The filling is brown sugar that’s broiled in the oven. I enjoyed queijadas but the husband found it too sweet.



With a full stomach we headed to Pena Palace which also took a long time to find. After circling the town and the back roads (our GPS had an incorrect address), we arrived. With our luck that’s also when the rain started to come down. Once the tickets are purchased there are two options: hike to the entrance or drive the rental car to the nearest parking lot. We opted for the latter. The palace is brightly colored and accented with tiles in certain areas. The exterior is more beautiful than the interior. The palace surrounds a large park that’s worth a stroll, if it isn’t raining cats and dogs.

Thus far a decent trip other than the rain. Obidos and northern coastal cities in the next post.

Peach Cobbler

It’s peach season and it is one of the ONLY fruits that the husband isn’t fond of.  Maybe it’s the fuzziness on the skin or the juices running down our hands when we eat a ripe peach, I don’t know but he is missing out! When I saw them at the store, I bought a bunch.

Then the husband says to me “what are you doing with all those peaches, making peach cobbler?”

I was shocked.  How does he know peach cobbler?  If any of you know him you know he can’t remember names of any foods, especially desserts (a course he doesn’t eat because of a dislike for sweets.  Don’t ask, but do roll your eyes!) His dessert list includes tiramisu and chocolate cake. A cobbler? I can’t even remember the difference between buckle, cobbler, crumble. Since you mention it I will bake a cobbler, I said.  And this recipe evolved from that.  The addition of bourbon was perfect because why not?

We’d planned a picnic and in addition to burgers, cucumber salad and chips, I brought this to the park.  It is very good but I think it is 100 times better when it’s fresh out of the oven and still warm.


Bourbon Peach Cobbler
Yield: 3 generous servings or 4 normal
highly adapted from these two recipes

1/4 cup bourbon (whiskey can be used)
3 peaches, peeled and chopped (without the pith)
1 teaspoon cornstarch
2 tablespoons sugar
pinch of ground cinnamon
1/2 cup all purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder  (single acting) or 1/2 teaspoon double acting (found in US)
1/8 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
1 tablespoon butter , used room temperature (next time try with cold butter)
1/3 cup milk

1/2 teaspoon sugar, for sprinkling on top

Preheat the oven to 350°F or 175°C

Mix the peaches with the bourbon, sugar, cornstarch and cinnamon.  Combine well and then let sit so the fruit macerates in the syrup while preparing the crust.

Combine flour, baking powder, sugar and salt in a medium bowl. Add butter and mix it with fork.  Add milk and stir just until ingredients are incorporated.  It should be slightly wet and sticky.

Drop the dough by the spoon on top of the fruit.  There will be gaps but the dough will spread and puff as it bakes.  Sprinkle the dough with sugar. 

Bake for 30- 35 minutes, until the biscuits are evenly browned and a toothpick inserted into the crust comes out clean.  Serve warm (with vanilla ice cream if you want to indulge).

Sardinia or Sardegna

We planned a trip to Sardinia when we saw a cheap flight from Nuremberg to Olbia. I googled Olbia; it doesn’t have much in the way for sightseeing. The main reason for this trip was to eat Sardinian food, get some sunshine and play in water.

We had an hour delay on departure, thankfully only an hour. We arrived late but the car rentals were still open. Agriturismo Li Scopi, for our first night, in San Teodoro is 30 minutes from the airport but after dark it took us 50 minutes on unknown roads in the dark. Li Scopi is hard to find so be sure to note the get GPS points, infact that’s true for all Italian locations. The nice host offered to stay for a late check in.

We slept well and woke up to a beautiful, clear day. The breakfast is served in the main house. In addition to fruits, sliced meats, cheese, cookies and cakes, they serve fresh yogurt and Sardinian flatbread, Pane Carasau. It’s crisp and thin cracker consistency. There’s abundance of food and something for everyone.

Each couple/family gets their own bungalow. Our bungalow was sophisticated and minimal. The wood beams and the large farm door at entrance worked. In addition to the main bedroom there is a smaller room attached with a table and chair and a cot (for a small child). There is also a wrap-around patio with lawn chairs.

After breakfast we drove to the nearest beach in San Teodoro. The clear water spanning multi shades of blue was beautiful. The day was sunny but the water was too cold for a swim, lesson learned, visit between June and October. There are few things that make me as happy as I was on that day on the shores with my feet in the water.

After a long stroll along the shore we headed south in the direction of Orosei & Cala Gonone. We decided to take the scenic route hugging the coast. (There is a highway that gets you from Olbia (or northern areas) to Cala Gonone faster.) Parts of the drive are on windy, hilly roads with water miles below while in other areas the road runs close to the road. We stopped in the town of Nuoro for lunch but were turned away by the owner because they open only for dinner. Not starved we drove to Agriturismo Gulunie to check in and drop off our bags. The agriturismo is on a hill overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea.

An older nonna (grandma) walked out from the main house and greeted us. I asked for our room and she had no idea what I was saying. Then the husband heard her say some words including “mangiare” and understood it as eating/food. She’s asking us about lunch he says. When did the husband learn Italian? Since we arrived to Europe, apparently or in one of those trips we’ve taken. Smart one, that husband. So I said no nonna no mangiare, solamente dormir. (When the only other language you know, Spanish, which may sound like Italian you use it. I did.) So the nonna said, si, si and told us to wait. After few minutes her daughter or someone of our age pulled up in a car and we got everything situated.

Our room was ordinary with a double bed and bunk beds. Both the bedroom and bathroom are poorly decorated. Coming from Li Scopi this was a slight disappointment. The younger woman told us they offer dinner each night. Having read the reviews for their food, we made reservations.

We asked for lunch suggestion and she said Osalla Beach Garden, a restaurant we’d seen on the way there. Osalla is on the beach and has benches and tables on the sand with palm trees offering shade. There’s also a bar for the beachgoers. One of the waiters offered the fresh seafood of the day and recommended some dishes including octopus, crabs, fish, and clams. After we ordered a couple and their toddler started getting their food. Between the three of them, they ordered 7-8 large portion dishes, some with pasta and all with seafood. While waiting and our mouths watering, we impatiently awaited our food. I had grilled octopus with grilled vegetables and the husband had pasta with crab and shared wine. Both dishes were terrific. If you’re in the area, go here especially from the beach.

After lunch we went to the local grocery store and bought wine. We had our tablets and wine in tow; we headed to the shore to read and drink. Again we dipped our feet in water and the water was cold. The shining sun and wine made the afternoon enjoyable.

Dinner started promptly at 7:30 in the main dining room and the restaurant was half full. Like the Tuscan agriturismo, we knew there would be many courses of food. We started with Pane Carasau, antipasti of marinated artichokes, tomato topped with salty ricotta and egg custard. They also serve cinghiale (wild boar) salami, prosciutto and cheese with antipasti. We could not get enough of the tomatoes with salted ricotta and marinated artichokes, we asked for seconds. Next was pasta, both homemade. Malloreddus (Sardinian gnocchi) with Bolognese (meat sauce) and the other ravioli, filled with dough. Both pastas were delightful but we found the ravioli filled with dough unusual, not good or bad. The main course was porcheddu, roasted suckling pig, with salad. The meat was tender, juicy and very fatty. After stuffing our faces with 3 courses we were done yet the kitchen wasn’t. Next came seada di ricotta, dough filled with ricotta, fried and then drizzled with honey. It’s like an empanada. It sounds unreal and tasted unreal and turned out to be one of my favorite desserts. Who thinks of frying cheese in dough and drizzling with honey? Sardinians! Then we had fruits with berries and citrus. The meal finished with fresh ricotta with honey. Did I mention they provide unlimited wine? There was coffee, we still can’t drink coffee after dinner like the Europeans as well as Mirto, liquor from the Myrtle plant. The husband tried it and we believe we’re not Mirto (or Grappa) fans because it astringent flavor. A memorable meal that costs almost nothing; the dinner is special at Agriturismo Gulunie.

Breakfast at Gulunie on the other hand is not memorable. They serve average breads, fruits and store bought yogurt. Since we were content with dinner it was fine to have a light breakfast.

We went to Cala Gonone to plan our activity. I’d researched information on a hike from Cala Luna to Cala Goloritze (UNESCO site) which takes roughly 3 hours. At the information desk in Cala Gonone the woman suggested a boat ride. She said the hike is strenuous and we didn’t have proper shoes for the trail. Thanks for the tip tourist person.

At the port, we bought tickets for a boat ride. It started from Cala Gonone to Cala Luna, Cala Goloritze, Cala Mariolu, Cala Gabbiani and couple others I can’t remember. (It follows the hiking trail on water). Since we’d missed the departure for Cala Luna at 10:30, the captain said the boat would pick us up at 12:15 and take us to next destination. We arrived at Cala Luna and picked up the 10:30am group of 6 and headed to the next stop. The boat takes visitors from one cala to the next and permits time to sunbathe (or swim in warmer weather). At each stop we were given 1 hour. Since the water was cold, we sunbathe and snapped photos. The scenery of the mountains reaching the sea was breathtaking. The rock formations were surreal.

The water was deep in some areas and shallow in others. The driver explained the rock formations’ history, as best as he could in his broken English. While driving from one cove to the next, the driver also took us into some hidden caves with the boat. One such cove was in use until the 19-90s and then a massive rock fell from the mountain on the coast (no one was hurt) and therefore is no longer accessible.

We agreed that when the water is warmer, these hidden caves would be the perfect place to swim. On that note, if going in peak summer, many visitors rent their own jettys and visit at their own pace. That requires parking the jetty far from the shore and swimming up to shore.

Our rental hit high waves and the ride was rocky at times. On either a jetty or rental boat be prepared for high seas and sickness. Also of note, some of these beaches are pebbly making it very uncomfortable on your feet and on the back.

We returned from the excursion at 5:30pm and were wiped out. The sun, the high waves and overall day at the beach was tiresome. Tough life...

That evening we drove back to Li Scopi for another night. We asked the host for dinner recommendation and she suggested L’Alculiciu, down the street. She made reservations for us and we were on our way.

Also an agriturismo that offers a full meal with antipasti, bread, pasta, meat, desserts, unlimited wine, water, coffee and mirto. There were some memorable dishes. One was battered and fried eggplant, we still have the taste of the eggplant in our mouths. Fried cheese that we both devoured. FRIED CHEESE, People!!! Another was red beans with sausage; the beans were slow cooked in the sausage. I could not get enough of the braised Romano beans in olive oil and garlic; we asked our server to leave the unfinished plate of beans. He chuckled. There were three pastas including Sardinian gnocchi with meat sauce, lasagna baked with some hallucinogenic drug (I am kidding, I wanted to see if you were reading… it was so good we will never forget it.) and ravioli filled with ricotta and served with sage butter sauce. (On a side side note, I just learned the lasagna dish’s name and its details. It’s called Zuppa Gallurese. And it’s not a soup at all. It’s made with stale bread soaked in broth then layered with cheese, topped with cow’s milk cheese and baked. It was invented in Gallura. I love google and that it feeds (pun intended!) my need-to-know-brain with food information.) There was porcheddu, given because it's the national dish of Sardinia, I say! The homey flavors and comforting service were authentic. The only server knew we were foreigners and he was kind and often asked if everything was okay. If the food at Gulunie was tasty, the food here was remarkable; I fell in love with Sardinia that evening, one more time.

The next morning we ventured North, past Olbia. In the 60s, a developer put Sardinia on the tourism map by developing an area on the northeast coast, Costa Smerlada. The husband’s coworker suggested we checkout the yachts and homes. No yacht sighting but the area radiates wealth amid gated communities and mansions overlooking the sea.

We lunched at a Sardinian version of state road restaurant. The inside was nice and clean. It was a Sunday because families dined for post church lunch. Seeing other tables I took note and ordered mussels. The husband ordered pasta with seafood upon the server’s recommendation. Both dishes were outstanding. We were surprised by the food because it was a random restaurant on Route 125 between Olbia and Costa Smerlada

We covered a small area in Sardinia and I would come back again if given the choice. San Teodoro has peaceful sandy beaches with turquoise waters while Cala Gonone offers swimming coves with shallow and deep waters. We visited Sardinia for three reasons relaxing, swimming and the food. Thankfully we accomplished two!

(don't mind the bad iPhone photos of the food; blogger.com or iPhone are up to no good or I am having a technologically challenged day.)