Nürnberg Trials and Dokumentationszentrum (Doku zentrum or Documentation Center)

..following up from the last post…

Before moving in 2011 when we told friends and family about our new venture, they often asked “isn’t that where the Nürnberg trials were?” If there is one thing it is known for, it is the trials. Also the laws, introduced in the 30s when National Socialist (Nazi) party was gaining momentum, presented in a Rally in Nürnberg. The laws are meaningless.

The trials museum, on the other hand, housed in a Nürnberg court that is used as a judiciary building on most days is a must. The exhibition is lengthy and details the proceedings and sentences of individuals tried for war crimes. There is some audio and videos. Visiting times are limited so check the museum hours.

After the court, Doku zentrum is worth visiting also. It’s a large structure built by the party intended for outdoor rallies and an indoor hall for political meetings. Parts of the construction were never completed. Today it is a museum chronicling the rise and fall of Nazi party. The information is precise and thorough.

If planning a visit, plan to dedicate an entire day to both.

(Of course, the city is also known for the Christkindlesmarkt and sausages, beer...)

Dachau

I have had a hard time writing this post because words cannot describe what we saw, read and learned in Dachau. Dachau Concentration Camp was opened in 1933 to house Jews, political prisoners, minority (Roma/homosexuals) and anyone that spoke openly against the Nazis (and its beliefs). Over time there were various camps set up throughout Germany and European countries, initially for forced labor. Dachau started as a forced labor camp with excessive work hours and production quotas for prisoners.

Now it is an empty space with a memorial for those lost and few that survived. The museum offers a guided tour in English which we highly recommend. There’s also an extensive exhibit in the museum with preserved photos and information of some of the people. The stories are gut wrenching. Even with brutal conditions, many were hopeful to leave the camp one day.

Arbeit macht Frei (work will make me free)

We went on a very cold winter day, hence the snow, and we advice against that. Except for the museum the tour is outside and by the end of the tour our toes were freezing, with socks and boots. I cannot understand how in the harsh winters these individuals endured with bare minimum clothes and footwear.

It is impossible to write about Dachau because it was created under merciless conditions and treated normal people inhumanely, but to never forget those lost and hope something like this never happens again Dachau deserves a visit.

Due to its proximity, there are frequent trains from Munich to Dachau. From Nürnberg, we took the train to Munich and then transferred. Check English tour times in advance.

The start of Bavarian Beer fests

It’s the beginning of beer festival season in Bavaria. There’s the infamous Oktoberfest in Munich. And as fun as that was, the local ones are funner; not a word, I know, but I am using it. Traditional charm without the madness. Of course there are drunk people (acting a fool) but there are more locals enjoying beer and one another’s company.

The one happening right now is Bergkirchweih in Erlangen, a university town 20 kilometers from Nürnberg. There’s Annafest in July in Forchheim, further north. Berg is smaller than Oktoberfest and Annafest is smaller than the Berg.

Many breweries (cellars) serve one type of beer they’ve specially made. The setup is simple; each brewery has designated tents with tables and benches. Servers take beer orders. Beer is served in a Maß, 1 liter of beer. Food can be bought at the food stands with various offerings including large pretzels, sausages, fish sandwiches, candied nuts, and chocolates. There are some ethnic specialties like Langos (Fried dough served with sour cream and cheese, Hungarian) and Crepes (thin pancakes with sweet or savory filling, French).

Other than the breweries and food, there are games and rides; good for the whole family. The festival has carnival atmosphere.

The key is to get there early (3-4 pm) to snatch a table and hold it for friends. We’ve learned from the locals to leave at a reasonable time (8-9 pm) to avoid the drunken debauchery that happens at beer festivals.

Prost!

Sardinia or Sardegna

We planned a trip to Sardinia when we saw a cheap flight from Nuremberg to Olbia. I googled Olbia; it doesn’t have much in the way for sightseeing. The main reason for this trip was to eat Sardinian food, get some sunshine and play in water.

We had an hour delay on departure, thankfully only an hour. We arrived late but the car rentals were still open. Agriturismo Li Scopi, for our first night, in San Teodoro is 30 minutes from the airport but after dark it took us 50 minutes on unknown roads in the dark. Li Scopi is hard to find so be sure to note the get GPS points, infact that’s true for all Italian locations. The nice host offered to stay for a late check in.

We slept well and woke up to a beautiful, clear day. The breakfast is served in the main house. In addition to fruits, sliced meats, cheese, cookies and cakes, they serve fresh yogurt and Sardinian flatbread, Pane Carasau. It’s crisp and thin cracker consistency. There’s abundance of food and something for everyone.

Each couple/family gets their own bungalow. Our bungalow was sophisticated and minimal. The wood beams and the large farm door at entrance worked. In addition to the main bedroom there is a smaller room attached with a table and chair and a cot (for a small child). There is also a wrap-around patio with lawn chairs.

After breakfast we drove to the nearest beach in San Teodoro. The clear water spanning multi shades of blue was beautiful. The day was sunny but the water was too cold for a swim, lesson learned, visit between June and October. There are few things that make me as happy as I was on that day on the shores with my feet in the water.

After a long stroll along the shore we headed south in the direction of Orosei & Cala Gonone. We decided to take the scenic route hugging the coast. (There is a highway that gets you from Olbia (or northern areas) to Cala Gonone faster.) Parts of the drive are on windy, hilly roads with water miles below while in other areas the road runs close to the road. We stopped in the town of Nuoro for lunch but were turned away by the owner because they open only for dinner. Not starved we drove to Agriturismo Gulunie to check in and drop off our bags. The agriturismo is on a hill overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea.

An older nonna (grandma) walked out from the main house and greeted us. I asked for our room and she had no idea what I was saying. Then the husband heard her say some words including “mangiare” and understood it as eating/food. She’s asking us about lunch he says. When did the husband learn Italian? Since we arrived to Europe, apparently or in one of those trips we’ve taken. Smart one, that husband. So I said no nonna no mangiare, solamente dormir. (When the only other language you know, Spanish, which may sound like Italian you use it. I did.) So the nonna said, si, si and told us to wait. After few minutes her daughter or someone of our age pulled up in a car and we got everything situated.

Our room was ordinary with a double bed and bunk beds. Both the bedroom and bathroom are poorly decorated. Coming from Li Scopi this was a slight disappointment. The younger woman told us they offer dinner each night. Having read the reviews for their food, we made reservations.

We asked for lunch suggestion and she said Osalla Beach Garden, a restaurant we’d seen on the way there. Osalla is on the beach and has benches and tables on the sand with palm trees offering shade. There’s also a bar for the beachgoers. One of the waiters offered the fresh seafood of the day and recommended some dishes including octopus, crabs, fish, and clams. After we ordered a couple and their toddler started getting their food. Between the three of them, they ordered 7-8 large portion dishes, some with pasta and all with seafood. While waiting and our mouths watering, we impatiently awaited our food. I had grilled octopus with grilled vegetables and the husband had pasta with crab and shared wine. Both dishes were terrific. If you’re in the area, go here especially from the beach.

After lunch we went to the local grocery store and bought wine. We had our tablets and wine in tow; we headed to the shore to read and drink. Again we dipped our feet in water and the water was cold. The shining sun and wine made the afternoon enjoyable.

Dinner started promptly at 7:30 in the main dining room and the restaurant was half full. Like the Tuscan agriturismo, we knew there would be many courses of food. We started with Pane Carasau, antipasti of marinated artichokes, tomato topped with salty ricotta and egg custard. They also serve cinghiale (wild boar) salami, prosciutto and cheese with antipasti. We could not get enough of the tomatoes with salted ricotta and marinated artichokes, we asked for seconds. Next was pasta, both homemade. Malloreddus (Sardinian gnocchi) with Bolognese (meat sauce) and the other ravioli, filled with dough. Both pastas were delightful but we found the ravioli filled with dough unusual, not good or bad. The main course was porcheddu, roasted suckling pig, with salad. The meat was tender, juicy and very fatty. After stuffing our faces with 3 courses we were done yet the kitchen wasn’t. Next came seada di ricotta, dough filled with ricotta, fried and then drizzled with honey. It’s like an empanada. It sounds unreal and tasted unreal and turned out to be one of my favorite desserts. Who thinks of frying cheese in dough and drizzling with honey? Sardinians! Then we had fruits with berries and citrus. The meal finished with fresh ricotta with honey. Did I mention they provide unlimited wine? There was coffee, we still can’t drink coffee after dinner like the Europeans as well as Mirto, liquor from the Myrtle plant. The husband tried it and we believe we’re not Mirto (or Grappa) fans because it astringent flavor. A memorable meal that costs almost nothing; the dinner is special at Agriturismo Gulunie.

Breakfast at Gulunie on the other hand is not memorable. They serve average breads, fruits and store bought yogurt. Since we were content with dinner it was fine to have a light breakfast.

We went to Cala Gonone to plan our activity. I’d researched information on a hike from Cala Luna to Cala Goloritze (UNESCO site) which takes roughly 3 hours. At the information desk in Cala Gonone the woman suggested a boat ride. She said the hike is strenuous and we didn’t have proper shoes for the trail. Thanks for the tip tourist person.

At the port, we bought tickets for a boat ride. It started from Cala Gonone to Cala Luna, Cala Goloritze, Cala Mariolu, Cala Gabbiani and couple others I can’t remember. (It follows the hiking trail on water). Since we’d missed the departure for Cala Luna at 10:30, the captain said the boat would pick us up at 12:15 and take us to next destination. We arrived at Cala Luna and picked up the 10:30am group of 6 and headed to the next stop. The boat takes visitors from one cala to the next and permits time to sunbathe (or swim in warmer weather). At each stop we were given 1 hour. Since the water was cold, we sunbathe and snapped photos. The scenery of the mountains reaching the sea was breathtaking. The rock formations were surreal.

The water was deep in some areas and shallow in others. The driver explained the rock formations’ history, as best as he could in his broken English. While driving from one cove to the next, the driver also took us into some hidden caves with the boat. One such cove was in use until the 19-90s and then a massive rock fell from the mountain on the coast (no one was hurt) and therefore is no longer accessible.

We agreed that when the water is warmer, these hidden caves would be the perfect place to swim. On that note, if going in peak summer, many visitors rent their own jettys and visit at their own pace. That requires parking the jetty far from the shore and swimming up to shore.

Our rental hit high waves and the ride was rocky at times. On either a jetty or rental boat be prepared for high seas and sickness. Also of note, some of these beaches are pebbly making it very uncomfortable on your feet and on the back.

We returned from the excursion at 5:30pm and were wiped out. The sun, the high waves and overall day at the beach was tiresome. Tough life...

That evening we drove back to Li Scopi for another night. We asked the host for dinner recommendation and she suggested L’Alculiciu, down the street. She made reservations for us and we were on our way.

Also an agriturismo that offers a full meal with antipasti, bread, pasta, meat, desserts, unlimited wine, water, coffee and mirto. There were some memorable dishes. One was battered and fried eggplant, we still have the taste of the eggplant in our mouths. Fried cheese that we both devoured. FRIED CHEESE, People!!! Another was red beans with sausage; the beans were slow cooked in the sausage. I could not get enough of the braised Romano beans in olive oil and garlic; we asked our server to leave the unfinished plate of beans. He chuckled. There were three pastas including Sardinian gnocchi with meat sauce, lasagna baked with some hallucinogenic drug (I am kidding, I wanted to see if you were reading… it was so good we will never forget it.) and ravioli filled with ricotta and served with sage butter sauce. (On a side side note, I just learned the lasagna dish’s name and its details. It’s called Zuppa Gallurese. And it’s not a soup at all. It’s made with stale bread soaked in broth then layered with cheese, topped with cow’s milk cheese and baked. It was invented in Gallura. I love google and that it feeds (pun intended!) my need-to-know-brain with food information.) There was porcheddu, given because it's the national dish of Sardinia, I say! The homey flavors and comforting service were authentic. The only server knew we were foreigners and he was kind and often asked if everything was okay. If the food at Gulunie was tasty, the food here was remarkable; I fell in love with Sardinia that evening, one more time.

The next morning we ventured North, past Olbia. In the 60s, a developer put Sardinia on the tourism map by developing an area on the northeast coast, Costa Smerlada. The husband’s coworker suggested we checkout the yachts and homes. No yacht sighting but the area radiates wealth amid gated communities and mansions overlooking the sea.

We lunched at a Sardinian version of state road restaurant. The inside was nice and clean. It was a Sunday because families dined for post church lunch. Seeing other tables I took note and ordered mussels. The husband ordered pasta with seafood upon the server’s recommendation. Both dishes were outstanding. We were surprised by the food because it was a random restaurant on Route 125 between Olbia and Costa Smerlada

We covered a small area in Sardinia and I would come back again if given the choice. San Teodoro has peaceful sandy beaches with turquoise waters while Cala Gonone offers swimming coves with shallow and deep waters. We visited Sardinia for three reasons relaxing, swimming and the food. Thankfully we accomplished two!

(don't mind the bad iPhone photos of the food; blogger.com or iPhone are up to no good or I am having a technologically challenged day.)

Parents love Biscotti

I often have a fantastic time when my mom visits us. Not only does she stay for extended time, she always comes with plans to cook all kinds of food I don’t normally make. Last time she visited she taught me how to make khaman or tried. I have attempted khaman on my own but they aren’t as good as when she is here; there’s a reason I learn new recipes from her!

In addition to making Indian food few days, she wanted to learn to make ethnic recipes. One was a recipe for chicken in pumpkin seed sauce (reminiscent of Mexican cuisine). I have made green sauce in US using tomatillos (that green fruit originated in Mexico look like tomatoes but come in skins known as husks, sticky on the peel and taste tart). Since Tomatillos aren’t available here in Germany so I have been making the green sauce without them. Blending pumpkin seeds, garlic, Serrano peppers, spices and cilantro into a smooth paste makes for a great sauce.

The recipe I am sharing today is one of her and my dad’s favorites. The one requested item that they ask me to bring is biscotti. So I thought I’d show her how to make it and take some for home.

I had been using another recipe in the past but when I stumbled upon the NPR recipe. After trying this recipe I can attest it is a keeper! I slightly modified the recipe.


Traditional Italian Almond Biscotti
Makes about 36 biscotti (3/4-inch-wide cookies)

3 cups unsalted whole almonds
1 cup granulated sugar
1 cup light brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 teaspoons baking powder
2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
3 large eggs
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees. Line 2 large baking sheets with parchment paper.

Place almonds in a single layer on a baking sheet and toast in the 350-degree oven for 10 minutes. Remove and set aside.

In a large bowl, hand mix toasted almonds, sugars, cinnamon, baking powder and flour.

In a small bowl, whisk eggs. Add the vanilla and whisk until well blended. Add to the flour mixture. Stir a few times. Work the batter together with lightly floured hands. The mixture will be sticky, but persevere. Keep squeezing the batter with your hands until a dough starts to form. Once the dough is firm, form a ball. Divide the ball into 4 equal pieces.

On a lightly floured surface, place 1 piece of dough, and using your hands, roll into a log shape that is approximately 8 inches long, 2 inches wide and 3/4 of an inch high. If it's sticky, simply dust your palms with more flour. Repeat with remaining 3 pieces of dough. Place 2 logs per baking sheet.

Bake for 40 minutes, rotating pans halfway through, or until the tops of the loaves are shiny and deep golden. Cool on a rack for about 20 minutes before slicing.

Place a loaf on a cutting board. Using a large serrated knife, cut 3/4-inch-thick slices, either straight or on the diagonal. Use a back and forth motion to prevent crumbling. Each loaf should yield 9 to 11 cookies. If the cookie is crumbling, then let it cool a few more minutes. Don't let it rest too long, however, or it could become too hard to slice.

Place slices on their sides back on the baking sheets. Place in the still warm oven with the temperature off and the door closed for 30 to 60 minutes. The longer they stay in the oven, the harder they will become. Remove from oven and cool completely before storing in an airtight container, preferably a tin, which helps keep them crisp. Stored properly, biscotti will last up to a month.

These did not last a month, more like 1 week, a testament to the taste.

Castles worth visiting

In every guidebook and on every travel website one sight that is recommended for American visitors is Schloss Neuschwanstein also known as the Disney Castle. When a friend visited she wanted to go to this castle. And then again when family visited recently, “seeing German castles” was on the list.

The brief history is King Ludwig (the crazy one that splurged on castles) built this as a vacation home. If time permits, also tour Schloss Hohenschwangau, where King Ludwig spent his childhood summers. Due to Neuschwanstein’s high percentage of visitors each year reserve tickets in advance or you will find yourself waiting in long lines, especially in warmer weather.

When I went with my friend on a winter weekday, we took the train using the Bayern pass. And we learned Bayern pass can only be used after 9am on weekdays and anytime on weekends. We had multiple transfers. 2 stops before our first transfer the ticket checker explained the pass rules and asked to deboard the train at the next stop. The next train arrived after 9 and we boarded. Few transfers and a short bus ride from Hohenschwangau’s main station to the castle’s ticket office, we arrived. Smooth sailing, right? Wrong. We bought our tickets and walked to Hohenschwangau Castle for the first tour. The tour is brief and in it includes royalty’s bedrooms, living/dining quarters. In my opinion, the best part of this tour is the view of Schloss Neuschwanstein. Check in advance or contact the castle because English tours aren’t offered daily. Then we hiked up the hill in snow to the Neuschwanstein’s entrance. By 2pm, we were cold, starved and almost ready to go home. The tour details the king’s life and his mysterious death. The chandelier in the dining room is elegant. The castle is large however only few rooms are open for visits making this also a short tour.



For GPS directions, both castles are in the town of Hohenschwangau. Park the car in one of the lots and claim the reserved tickets at the office. There are three options: walk up (the hill) to Neuschwanstein, take the horse carriage for small fee or take the bus for even a smaller fee. The bus is only available in late Spring, Summer and early Fall. My mom, sister and nephew horse rode the carriage while the husband and I hiked up on foot.


Even walking down the stairs inside the castle to exit on that cold day was so bone chillingly cold and our toes felt like they would fall off. The walk down was worse due to the snow. At the bus stop we learned the bus had departed and the next would arrive in 30 minutes. Instead of waiting we started walking to the main train station. On our way a car stopped to ask where we were going. The man and woman offered to drive us the short distance. Without thinking twice we both hopped in and were grateful for the kindness of strangers. Thank you! (Normally I say don’t get in cars with strangers but not that day!)


The Winter visit was a very different experience than the Spring; don’t make our mistakes and visit in cold months. If using the Bayern pass depart after 9am. More importantly plan ahead and book advance tickets. Traveling by car is more convenient and with the Alps as the backdrop a visit is a must on a clear day.

Tulips in Netherlands

We are here to make dreams come true, at least for my mom. My mom is a fanatic for gardens, flowers and all things nature. Since her trip was planned very last minute, we decided to drive to Netherlands for few days. Our time there coincided with the Tulip growing season.

On Friday we drove to Kleve Germany; we decided it would be best to spend the nights in Kleve due to its proximity to Netherlands. Bed and Breakfast Rebeige is outside the heart of town and isolated. With proper directions from the owner, we reached at 9pm, after a brief stop at a rest stop with our homemade Indian meal. It was my mom’s wish to eat homemade food on Friday since we’d eat out the other days so we were happy to oblige. The owner showed us to our rooms and explained the TV/DVD details. The room was spacious and moderately decorated with IKEA pieces. The bathroom is spacious with a walk in shower. Signs are everywhere of the home’s goal to be environmentally friendly; solar roof panels, asking to turn off all lights upon leaving, the rainwater is stored in tanks and used for shower and toilets.

The morning’s breakfast was a large spread with deli meats, fresh fruits, homemade bread, yogurt and freshly brewed coffee. The owner even offered to help us plan our car route from Haarlem to Leiden with few stops, one included Keukenhof. The drive from Kleve was a short one of 2 hours. Haarlem is a small town with few main squares (an Amsterdam suburb feel but yet with a charm of a small town). We drove through the town to proceed to the flower garden at Keukenhof. Allocate 2 hours minimum because it has greenhouses and outdoor gardens full of flowers (mostly tulips).


After strolling through the gardens we drove to the open tulip fields. This was the dream my mom had of seeing tulips, endless rows of flowers.

This is also where parts of the bollywood (Hollywood + Bombay) movie Silsila was filmed. In addition to Keukenhof, the field of tulips was a charming experience.

We proceeded to drive to Leiden but without luck of finding tulip fields on either side of the road. Having a shorter day than planned we drove to Gouda for a quick stop. Unfortunately by 4:30-5pm on Saturday, most of the down was winding up for the day. Other than few restaurants preparing for dinner, both the farmer’s market and boutique shops were closing. We were hoping to buy some Gouda cheese but weren’t lucky. Walking up and down the small streets, the city felt reminiscent of Amsterdam. Like it’s older sister, Gouda sits on canals with row houses and constructed precisely like Amsterdam.


We ate dinner at Akropolis, a Greek restaurant, in Kleve. The multiple dining rooms are large spaces for parties. The restaurant serves many meals efficiently and the service is generous. The food is good and may offer best selection in the area.

On Sunday we drove back home using the back roads of Germany, stopping in small towns for pictures and snacks.

The tulips were the prefect reason to see the quieter parts of Netherlands & Germany. Tip- Late March to early May is the best time to visit for peak bloom, check google for details before planning your trip.