Bärlauch

I’ve raved about our wonderfully warm February and March so when I saw the first of spring produce it was reassuring.


After moving here, during our first spring I saw plenty of Bärlauch at the farmer’s market. I inquired, smelled and even tasted the thing but couldn’t exactly place it. Thanks to Google, I found out Bärlauch is just ramps (in America). It is a spring herb that tastes like a cross between garlic and leeks. It’s garlicky in taste but mild like a leek. The best way to use it is pesto and in US I sautéed it with cooked pasta and topped it with cheese.

This past Saturday (my) farm stand had Bärlauch, the last of the day. It sells out quick especially because it’s in season for very short period (approximately 4 weeks)!


The pesto is so good, we’ve added it to many things (breakfast sandwich, lentil salad, homemade veggie burgers and on toast). I am planning to buy few more bunches this weekend to make pesto to freeze for later.


(Random note- speaking of veggie burger, any ideas or suggestions on making a good one? I’ve tried couple recipes and haven’t had success. The first one was with black beans and the second time was chickpeas with quinoa. Both were fine but tasted mushy and more like a lentil patty and less like a veggie burger. I am taking suggestions so feel free to let me know.)

Karneval in Köln (Cologne)

Couple weekends ago we visited Köln (Cologne) for Karneval; something we wanted to do once. Why not experience the biggest parties thrown by a city and dress up in costume?

Karneval starts on November 11th each year and is celebrated through Ash Wednesday, before lent. The tradition started long time ago and includes costumes, parades, and parties the week before Ash Wednesday.

The husband has a colleague from Essen and he offered to take us to Köln because he and his girlfriend were going to Essen. After a 3.5 hour car ride, we arrived in the afternoon. Our hotel was Radisson Blu, few tram stops from the center of city. (When we booked our hotel in beginning of February, our options were very limited.)

0.2 beer glasses dispenser

The first evening we ventured to Päffgen for dinner and Kölsch beer. Kölsch is what the locals call their beer. (Each region has their particular beer and here is no exception.) The beer is light in taste. By the time we arrived, the entire restaurant was packed with people singing, dancing, and couple small rooms dedicated for dining. We managed to grab couple seats in the dining area. For dinner we ordered sauerbraten, and an appetizer portion of blood sausage with dark bread. The sauerbraten came with potato dumplings and apple sauce. The husband liked the dumplings and the apple sauce but unfortunately was not thrilled about the sauerbraten because it was slightly sweet and covered in a sweet berry sauce. The blood sausage was fine. We drank couple rounds of beer and then wandered the city for the public display of debauchery.


Later that night we took advantage of the spa in the hotel. The spa is in the basement adjoined by the fitness center. The spa was well equipped; there was a Finnish sauna, steam room, pool with extremely cold water, relaxing room, and showers. Additionally there’s a changing room. The idea is to spend 10- 15 minutes in the steam/sauna rooms, take a dip in the cold water and rotate again. The unusual rule (for us because we aren’t used to this custom) at German saunas is once inside the rooms all clothes must be removed. We spent 45 minutes in the spa area and were thoroughly relaxed. Although I am not a fan of franchise hotels, Radisson Blu was wonderful with friendly service and large rooms.

We made our way to Die Rösterei for breakfast. The restaurant is away from the main tourist attractions and was full of locals, a good sign. We ordered a broccoli and cheese quiche and he ordered the weekend special. His plate came with homemade bread, scrambled eggs, jam, butter and bacon. Bacon was the only reason he ordered this because bacon in a German restaurant is like having freshly baked preservative-free bread in America. He enjoyed all of the food except for the extra crusty homemade bread. The portion size of my quiche was extra large but it was light, fluffy and had the right amount of broccoli. I would order it again. Our cappuccinos were served with a small piece of fudge, a nice touch.

Walking back to the train station we saw hoards of people dressed up because of a parade; we watched the last end of a parade in procession. We changed into our costumes at the hotel and went back to Päffgen for beer. Sunday evening was no different than Saturday. We stood in one of the large rooms, and made friends with few locals. They bought us few rounds of beer and we bought them couple rounds. The restaurant plays Kölsch music on loud speakers (on repeat). Even though we didn’t understand most of the songs, the music is entertaining and everyone sings along. Drinking and dancing with friendly strangers was the most fun we’ve had in Germany. Period.


Monday is known as Rosenmontag (rose Monday) and the most well known to attract locals, tourists, old and young. The entire city is closed for holiday. According to Wiki, Rosenmontag is most celebrated in German speaking countries. We went back to Die Rösterei to find it closed but next door Café Bauturm was open and offered a simple menu. Everything is a la carte with breads, eggs, ham, and deli meats. There were some other items but the menu is limited.


We were warned by the locals the previous night to avoid the Hauptbanhhof (main city station) and Dom (Church) areas because they’d be full of tourists and overcrowded. Instead we found a spot near the breakfast place. Where we were standing, the parade was delayed in starting. There were local organization floats, high school bands, and company floats. Some floats we had no idea about and others were obvious. We had heard lots of candy is thrown off the floats to catch, unfortunately we weren’t told that the candy is flung. And when you aren’t watching, it whacks you on the head like a pellet of chocolate. (Though I rather have chocolate pellets hit me than anything else.) In anticipation for the candy I brought a bag, wise but not wise enough. We ended up giving most of the candy away to a young teen next to us who in return shared one of his large plastic bags with me for the candy we kept. The parade was worth the Karneval trip.

People kids screamed Kamelle (candy/chocolate) when the floats passed while the women screamed Struessjer (flowers). Also, people on the floats yell Kölle and we respond with Alaaf! We heard Kölle Alaaf repeatedly over the weekend. We thought the parade would be 3 hours long and learned later it's 5+ hours. After the 4th hour, we headed to dinner at Malzmühle at the Heumarkt tram stop. We wondered through the dining room and found the only available two seats at a large table with a group. They offered Karneval menu with soups and few main dishes. The husband ordered curry wurst with French fries (with local beer, grilled sausages and fries are the best!) and I ordered the green pea and ham hock soup. Both were heavy but flavorful. Obviously due to the Karneval crowd I suspect the restaurant makes most dishes in advance and for a soup that’s a good thing.

the loot chocolate

After our beers we headed to the main station for our train. Some stand outs from the weekend, the people in Köln are extremely friendly and know how to have a good time, even with tourists. The city’s architecture is modern and attractive. Prior to learning about Karneval we didn’t have Köln as one of the cities to visit but after our weekend I say everyone should go! We visited the Dom (third tallest church in the world) but due to Sunday service and overcrowding of tourists, it was a quick visit. Without the tourists, I believe you can easily spend an hour or two in the church. And the city’s public transportation is extensive and easy to navigate.

Birthday

This month we are celebrating birthdays so this post is timely in sharing the German birthday tradition. In the US when it is someone’s birthday they get flowers, cake (cupcakes), gifts, drinks during happy hour and/or dinner from friends, family, and coworkers.

In the first few months we learned birthdays and work anniversaries have a special tradition.

The individual that’s celebrating must should bring in a treat to share with friends at work (or class). When I took German classes, each time it was someone’s birthday we brought something to share with everyone. The same applies at work. The treats can vary from freshly baked Breze (pretzels) to Kuchen (German form of cake or pie) to fresh breads with deli meats to what the individual wants to bring.

If the birthday person wants to have a dinner party at a restaurant or their home, they expense it themselves. The idea is celebrating the big day by inviting close friends and family to dinner. Speaking of dinner, last year I helped organize and cater a dinner party for one of our friends. They’re much, much, much older and have become like family. It was his 70th birthday (25, 30, 35, 40 and each decade thereafter are momentous) and the couple planned to have a dinner part in their home with 10- 15 of their friends, including the husband and I. There was an aperitif and appetizer course, main course, dessert course and lots of singing. The wife of the couple played the piano while others sang songs. Songs like Bella Marie. Special.

So today in celebrating the husband’s birthday I baked brownies, at his request. Those divine brownies.

Alles Gute zum Geburtstag mein Mann!

Paris

We took an overnight train from Munich to Paris on Thursday evening so it would give us all day Friday to sightsee. Unfortunately due to terrible storms in Germany, our train stopped (moving) in the middle of the night (while we were sleeping) and we didn’t arrive in Paris until 12 as opposed to the planned 9:15am. So having that delay threw us off a little but not enough to spoil the schedule.

It was my first time in the city and the husband’s second.

We took the metro to our AirBnB. The host had communicated the instructions on getting inside, precisely. The entry was simple but the climb up to the 6th floor was not. She had mentioned the apartment was on the top floor but did not state 6th floor. A mistake on our part for not asking. Once inside, we noticed the size of the apartment. Instead of the large, spacious photos of the room we saw online, the apartment was tiny. We wanted to shower before heading out for lunch and the water heater didn’t work so we contacted the host who said it would take 30- 45 minutes to heat the water. Unfortunate. Against our wishes, we left without showering to see the city. The Airbnb listed apartment is on Rue de Rochechouart, Paris, Île-de-France. Avoid it.

We were starved so we made a quick stop at a nearby bakery to get plain and chocolate croissants. When in Paris….

A note about our trip, a Francophile friend in Ohio recommended some restaurants and sights. Thank you!

We walked into Le Rubis and it was completely full but the host (an older man) directed us upstairs. Upon being seated, the server (an older lady) asked us for drinks and food order. This is when we realized we had to use the little French we knew (oui, vin, à la carte, eau). Good thing the server was extremely helpful and nice. We ordered half carafe vin (wine) and Formule. Many restaurants offer Formule or Menu d’Plat for lunch. Formule is main entrée with salad or dessert and Menu is main entrée with both salad and dessert. We both ordered a salad with a main entrée. The salad was simple and fresh and the entrees were tasty. The experience of the food and restaurant had a home cooked feel.

Then we strolled around the touristic areas. And since the weather was clear, we visited THE Eiffel Tower. What a magnificent beauty it is! I was thrilled when we approached it by the train. It definitely is worth the painstaking long lines and prices. Though I have to say, admiring the tower from the ground is a much better idea then the trip up. I know you’re probably rolling your eyes at me for saying this but I have seen my share of cities from the top (Prague to Budapest to Rome); the charm of Paris is magnified while sitting in the park, people watching, a glass of wine and looking at the tower.

For dinner the first night we attempted Frenchie. Friend recommended. She also suggested making reservations in advance, which we didn’t. What a nightmare. This restaurant has gotten media attention for its food and drinks. They have seats at the restaurant and the bar, which gets overcrowded after 6pm. The husband flirted with the host to see if we could snag a table at the restaurant and that unfortunately did not work. We put our name on the list for the bar and walked to Verjus (another restaurant recommended by the friend). The scene there was just as busy. (I don’t understand these crazy busy places; I suspect it is due to the hype.) Since we left the Frenchie bar (to walk over to Verjus), the bartender took our name off the list. When we returned, we were an hour late but not much higher on the list. We were finally seated 2.5 hours later. The husband was annoyed and I can understand why.

We sat at a table over from the kitchen window so we could observe the kitchen. It was neat to see the chefs work in a small space. We ordered a pulled pork sandwich, lamb with borlotti beans and harissa, and pappardelle with ragu. Portions are prepared in a way that can be shared. The lamb blew both of us away, especially with a hint of harissa. The ragu was good, but (having a culinary background, I am a harder critic of foods than average folks) it missed the oomph. Our least favorite was the pulled pork sandwich. Now I know not to order an American version of something in a country that specializes in game, seafood, and classical foods. We found Frenchie’s concept cool but the execution was scarce. I don’t think Frenchie (the bar) is worth the hype. The amount of people waiting in line for dinner service doesn’t justify for the food. Though I will say, next time I am back in the city I will make reservations for the actual restaurant offering prix fixe menu.


The next day we visited the Louvre. For the unfamiliar, it is one of the largest museums and houses art and objects from the world making it highly visited sight after the Eiffel Tower. One could easily spend multiple days viewing all the pieces. We did not have intent for that. We like visiting museums for few hours but beyond that everything starts to look the same. The best investments, FREE!!!, we made prior to visiting was download Rick Steves’ (public radio supporter nerd alert) guide to both the Louvre, Musee d’Orsay and the city of Paris. While other visitors were busy getting audio guides from the museum, we bought our tickets and walked in with our headphones and smart phones and started the tour on our own. The audio tour is thorough but light. We were thankful the podcast features the important pieces. Reviewing every single piece in the museum would be daunting and tiresome for everyone.

Cosi (friend recommended) was perfect for a mid day lunch. I got a veggie sandwich with brie, tomatoes and pesto while the husband got a fish sandwich. His fish was cold and we learned he doesn’t like cold fish sandwiches but that’s not Cosi’s problem. Both sandwiches were tasty. The chocolate cake was freshly made and rounded the meal perfectly.

At Musee d’Orsay we waited in a long line before entering. All these museums, including the Eiffel Tower, get many visitors so be prepared to wait. Paris is on everyone’s list and unless you visit in winter when there are fewer tourists waiting is a must.

Musee d’Orsay houses mostly French art over multiple floors. It has works by Jean-François Millet, Edgar Degas, and Vincent Van Gogh’s Starry Night. We had Rick Steves’ podcast here as well and it made for a manageable visit. Even with all the crowds, it’s worth seeing the museums. Without the podcasts, the museums would’ve been tough. I don’t know how any one visits these large museums without a tour guide or audio guide.

If interested, the same friend highly recommends the Orangerie. I can’t speak for it since we didn’t have time to go.


Along the same premise we did a walking tour of the city with Rick Steves’ audio guide of Paris, starting at Notre Dame. It was unique because we walked around the city, listening to a professional explain the city’s history. On the way, we stopped at berthillon for ice cream. Funny thing, Rick mentions it on his guide also! The ice cream is worth the stop.

For dinner we walked to Les Papilles (friend recommended); it was packed when we walked in at 7:10. The host offered two seats at the bar, the only available seats she said. The husband looked at me and said let’s do it. We knew if we declined and walked somewhere else, it would be the same situation or worse, long waiting. So we sat and had a 4 course meal with wine. Les Papilles does prix fixe menu with two seatings- one at 7 and the next at 9:30.

We had cauliflower soup with bacon and croutons. The main was braised lamb shanks with summer vegetables. My lamb was a tad dry but the husband’s was perfectly cooked. The veggies were braised in the meat juices and made for a better accompaniment with lamb. Then there was blue cheese with prune jam and finally panna cotta as dessert. I was going crazy for the blue cheese and prune jam because it’s very French and it was very tasty. The dinner was a splurge because although the dinner was only 35/person, the bartender sold us an extraordinarily expensive bottle of wine. Before our first course, I enjoyed sipping the wine but it didn’t pair as well with our meal as it could have, especially with the price tag. These are just little quirks that aren’t important to most people but someone with a food background I am more critical. I must add Les Papilles doesn’t mess around with their portions. For a French restaurant in Paris, the food could’ve easily fed 3 adults or 2 adults and children. Of course there were only 2 lamb shanks but each big enough to share. All the courses were brilliantly made, and the food was presented timely. For not having reservations anywhere in the city on a Saturday night, it was worth the splurge. Reservations are a must.



One of my favorite things (about any city) is to visit the farmer’s market. And I couldn’t have been happier than to visit one on Sunday of our trip. It was brimming with happy vendors and customers, ready to take on the day. We walked around for a while, took photos, bought a baguette and some cheese. Then we ate delicious buckwheat crepes for breakfast and walked over to Montmartre. I wish I could’ve bought all the amazing food they sold at the market.


Montmartre is a beautiful neighborhood with Basilica of the Sacré Cœur at the center. Once there, walk to the square behind the Basilica and you’ll find plenty of artists, displaying their artwork and some selling it. It was cool to walk through the aisles of art and see the faces behind the work. And sitting on the Basilica steps, admiring Paris isn’t so bad either.

For late lunch we walked in Le Trumilou at 1:30 we were able to get a table amongst the locals. The place was buzzing with couples admiring each other while the families attended to their children. This is a true Bistro if you’re looking for one. We ordered half carafe with Formule; the food was fresh and delicious. For a simple but authentic bistro meal and service this is the place.

Each morning all I wanted was croissants and coffee for breakfast so that’s exactly what we got. They were worth it. On another food note, I was sad we didn’t eat more macaroons. After a lunch at Cosi, we passed Laduree Macaroons and bought some for walk. They were divine. I wished we were near P. Herme shops to try but time didn’t permit.

Near our AirBnB apartment I had spotted a cheese shop, Ferme Saint Hubert. I made it a point to go on Saturday to buy cheese for the train ride home. There are hundreds of cheeses and overwhelming is an understatement. Although we couldn’t understand the name and description on the cheeses, we tried some and bought couple. The people behind the counter were extremely friendly and very patient which made this experience unique. Although I still don’t know what cheeses we ate over the next few days after the trip, we enjoyed all with French wine we’d bought at the wine shop across from the cheese shop. If you want a locals-friendly cheese shop, visit Ferme Saint Hubert.

The three days in Paris were brief but wonderful. Paris indeed is a large city and gets many tourists but with a specific plan, a guide and a map, it can be special. And we didn’t let the cloudy and grey weather disrupt our plans. Sometimes you can’t get everything so I am glad we got 3 days in the city of lights.

If you have a free evening, grab a bottle of wine and go to the green space by the Eiffel Tower. There’s a brief light show at night that lights up the tower and the city. It’s romantic.

Sun in the Winter

There’s an unspoken rule for the weather here. People from every corner of the world loves clear skies, sunshine and warmer weather, right? After having lived here and experienced it ourselves, we admit Germans take it to the next level. As soon as the sun shines, even briefly, everyone is outside strolling, window shopping, exercising, and/or dining. Germans (probably) invented al fresco style dining because when the weather is nice they hate being inside. There are even coffee shops where people buy a cup of espresso or cappuccino and drink it outside; it must taste better. Being so far north the winters can be brutal and seem like a never ending season with grey, dreary days. Sometimes weeks pass before we see the sun. Therefore when the skies are clear, the unspoken rule applies.

Fortunately this past week has been an exception to a dull winter and we’ve had glorious weather every single day.

Winter is also THE season to get citrus; fresh, sweet citrus. In Nürnberg it comes from Spain and Greece that I am aware of. The husband loves his fruits, especially Mandarins and Clementines. The other day in addition to buying Clementines I also bought Valencia oranges (typical for juice).

Having those oranges on my counter for an hour, I knew exactly what I wanted to make with them. I’m partial to banana-type breads. For instance. Baked in a loaf pan if I can eat it for breakfast then I am making it or thinking hard about making it. Instead of making it with butter I found an older recipe in my folder with olive oil and yogurt. I’ve made the original but for these delightful oranges I had something else in mind.

Orange Cardamom Yogurt Bread
Yield: One 9 inch loaf
Recipe adapted from this bread

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting the pan
2 teaspoons baking powder
3/4 teaspoon table salt
1 1/2 teaspoons ground cardamom*
3/4 cup sugar
2 1/4 teaspoons orange zest**
1/2 cup + 1 tablespoon plain Greek yogurt
1/4 cup olive oil
1/4 cup orange juice, fresh ***
2 large eggs
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

For the asterisks, please see my notes below the recipe.

Preheat oven to 350°F or 180°C

Thoroughly coat a 9-inch loaf pan with olive oil. (I recommend a glass or ceramic pan.)

With a zester or a vegetable peeler, zest the outside of 1 orange. If using a peeler, make sure to mince the peel with a sharp knife.

Whisk together 1 1/2 cups flour, baking powder, ground cardamom, and salt in a medium bowl.

In another bowl, rub the sugar and the orange zest together orange with your fingers. Then whisk in yogurt, olive oil, orange juice, eggs, and vanilla extract. Fold in the dry ingredients until everything is combined. (Do not overmix.)

Before adding the batter, make sure the pan is coated with olive oil entirely (and the oil hasn’t gathered at the bottom). Pour the batter into the pan and smooth the top.

Bake in the center of the oven until top of bread is golden brown, about 50- 55 minutes. Insert a toothpick or butter knife in the center of the bread, if it comes out clean or with few crumbs then it is ready.

Let the bread cool in the pan on a wire rack for 15 minutes. Run a knife around the edges to loosen the bread. Invert it onto a cooling rack and cool completely.

My notes:
* Instead of 1 1/2 teaspoons of ground cardamom, I would use 1 1/4 teaspoons
** Instead of 2 1/4 teaspoons orange zest, I would use 2 teaspoons.
*** There wasn’t enough orangey flavor, except from the zest, I plan to experiment with omitting olive oil and adding 1/2 cup orange juice, next time. (If you have experience with omitting fats for juice in quickbreads, please do share your experience.)

For longer shelf life, wrap the cooled bread in plastic wrap, then in ziptop bags and place in the fridge for 4- 5 days.

This was a recipe I am thankful to have tried, even the husband raved because it wasn’t too sweet. And to eat this with coffee while the sun shines makes for a perfect February morning.

Southern Spain- Seville & Malaga

Seville is the largest city in the state and receives the most visitors due to its size, Flamenco and Alcazar. In the walking tour, we learned of the Giralda (attached to the Cathedral) that was built as a Minaret but eventually converted to bell tower. We learned thoroughly of the conquest of the city by Ferdinand III in 13th century. After touring through the city on foot, one of my favorite spots was Plaza de Espana, a large square with renaissance architecture now houses government offices and decorative tiles.


After the tour we headed to Bar Alfalfa in the city. With a full bar and standing room only we ordered few tapas at the bar. When we entered, few tables had a cheesy dip so we ordered that, Pollo al Horno, Sliced bread with melted cheese and Jamon, Paella, Salmorejo and Blood Sangria to wash it all down with. The “blood” was play on words due to Halloween. Our favorite was the baked cheese made with Provolone and dipped with bread. Paella was cooked with seafood and although very good on flavors it was under salted. Both the Salmorejo and the bread with jamon were acceptable while the jamon provided great flavors, deeming it memorable. Our least favorite was the Pollo al Horno which was boiled chicken, seasoned with salt so overall bland. The sangria was excellent with a hint of cinnamon.


That afternoon we visited the Alcazar, located minutes from the Cathedral. It was built during Moorish era as a fort and is now restored as a palace. Due to the high number of visitors to the Alhambra, the Alcazar is the opposite and relaxed. The palace was first built as a main fort and then had additions added later by kings and queens. There are more gardens than you’d expect and some are worth the stroll. There is a lot of history to the Alcazar including the transformation from Muslim era to Christian. When we were there they didn’t offer guided tours so we opted for the audio guide and we recommend it. And unlike the Alhambra, stroll at your own pace without feeling rushed. I mentioned the husband was underwhelmed by the architecture (because of seeing it in Turkey & India) but if he had to pick one over another, he recommends the Alhambra over the Alcazar. In my opinion, if you have the time, visit both.

Bar Modesto serves food and also has a restaurant across the street (I am not sure if they are related). We ordered Gambas in Ajio (shrimp in garlic sauce), mushrooms with shrimp and Jamon, Potato salad with seafood, and Albondigas (meatballs). The shrimp were served hot in a Cazuela, very garlicky and a hint of red chili flakes. The meatballs were made of deer meat, served with tomato sauce and unusually memorable. And the other dishes were very good also. An important note about the service, it is extremely wonderful. Our server was a short, petite man and very understanding. He suggested couple of our dishes for the night and we were happy he chose them.

We dedicated the next day to wondering Seville on our own and hoping to find some gems, starting with a visit to Triana Market (the largest farmers market in the city) at 10am. Upon entering, most of the stalls were still shut and boarded up. We found ourselves across the street at an unnamed café for breakfast. We ordered pan con tomate y jamon (bread with tomato and ham) with cortado, shot of espresso with warm milk. (Apparently cortados are all the rage in US- mainly NYC because things have to be cool and mainstream to get attention.) At this café it was strong but delightful. After breakfast, we saw many homes and streets dotted with citrus trees and beautiful tiles. It is obvious the Moors impacted this area tremendously with their colorful creativity.

Bodeguita Romero was a quick snack before an actual lunch. The reason to visit this place was to try Pringa, sandwich made normally with beef or pork. We ordered braised pork cheek Pringa and the server suggested Pavia de Baccalao. Pavia is salted cod that’s breaded and deep fried. Both were very good, the pringa was rich from the fatty cheeks but tasty with a glass of beer. Romero is best for a quick lunch or post dinner snacks.

Then it was off to Enrique Becerra around the corner. 1 because it was so close and 2 because why not? That day was dedicated to good food. This place was packed with locals and was standing room only. The back used for dinner is curtained off during lunch. If you can snatch a bar stool seat or two, you’re lucky, which we were. Seeing others’ tables, we pointed and got some of the same things as the locals, chocos en la Rioja, Salmon in White Sauce and Albondigas. The chocos (squid) was braised for hours in Rioja red wine sauce and one of the husband’s favorite things in that meal, to our surprise. The Albondigas were my favorite from the entire trip because they are made with lamb and flavors of mint. The fish in white sauce was served in bite sized pieces per person. It was also good but we couldn’t understand why others around us kept ordering it. Later we learned the fish was their daily special and was half off hence the multiple orders from the same people.

That afternoon we spent relaxing in our room. Before dinner we walked over to Triana market at 5pm for a stroll and found all the stalls were boarding up. Do these people actually open for more than 2 hours?

It was off to Bar Modesto again before a Flamenco show. We ordered new dishes, fish and seafood soup, sea bass with cauliflower and pearl wheat, grilled squid with cauliflower, fresh shrimp and stuffed zucchini with seafood. The sea bass was a winner with balancing flavors and textures from the veg and bulgur. The shrimp were cold and with head on but very fresh. And the soup was nice, the stock made with fish bones. While the stuffed zucchini was good, the concept was too modern, especially for a restaurant like Modesto.


If you are interested in seeing Flamenco, make sure to book seats before the show and arrive early. At Casa De La Memoria, you stand in line, first come first serve basis and therefore score good seats. We had never seen Flamenco, even on TV, so it was a new for us. We learned, later, Flamenco was started by the Romani people in Andalucía and is a combination of singing, dancing and playing the guitar. We both recommend Casa de La Memoria because it devotes the evening to the singing, dancing and its dancers and the expression of tragedy and happiness; there isn’t food and there isn’t conversation. The show here was unexpectedly good and the dancing was brilliant.

Breakfast in southern Spain is impossible to find. We conclude it is because people party late into the night and don’t wake up in time for breakfast. If the hotel provides breakfast, opt for that.

We’ve done walking tours in other cities we’ve visited. The premise is a local person offers a tour in English with highlights of the city in 2-3 hours. Our experience in Seville with knowledgeable Santiago from Columbia was descriptive and he recommended a tour in Malaga so we drove to Malaga the next morning for the tour and lunch.  In the tour, we enjoyed Malaga on a beautiful day and saw sights.  Unfortunately the tour guide wasn’t very good and mostly complained about the Spanish economy driving out the locals to other parts of Europe or America. At one point, the husband and I rolled our eyes and said “we get it dude, you’re angry about the country’s economy.” Who wants a sulky tour guide? Though seeing Roman ruins in Malaga was a neat experience.

After the tour, we walked into La Campana. This place is busy with locals so expect to stand outside or tightly squeeze into the restaurant and stand by the bar. Busy might be an understatement, sardines in a can is a better description. You have to push your way through and order at the bar. Getting the servers’ attention is impossible with others trying to do the same.

We ordered Boquerones (deep fried Anchovies), Calamari, Puplo (fried Octopus), Torta de Camarones (Shrimp pancakes) and Mussels. Everything we ordered was fried. I believe, almost everything on the menu is fried. So as they say, if it’s fried or swimming in butter, it is bound to be delicious; we agree. Everything we got was perfect, the calamari and octopus were a little overdone but nothing to complain about. Others were ordering Gambas a la Mancha, cooked shrimp, served cold. We wished we had ordered that but we were stuffed. The local bier of choice is Victoria (especially at this restaurant) so we followed suit and ordered it and a St. Miguel. The environment at La Campana is blue collar so expectation of high class and status need to be left at the door.

Once our trip and driving around Andalucía was over, we drove to Malaga on our last night for dinner and sleep before our early morning (6am!) flight back home. We stayed at the Amador, highly rated restaurant and hotel. The room on the top floor has stunning view of the sea. We enjoyed the view for 2- 3 hours during dinner at the restaurant. We ordered ajo blanco, garlic and almond soup with shrimp and grape sorbet. Grape sorbet with garlic soup? It’s that type of restaurant. It was a fantastic combination. We ordered paella with shrimps, cuttlefish and monkfish for two. (Southern Spain isn’t known for paella but we wanted something other than tapas and all the meat dishes seemed too heavy.) The seafood was fresh and perfectly cooked, the rice was fine but we had paella in another trip (report coming soon) and that one was more memorable and worth every bite.

From the multiple trips we have taken thus far Spain has captured my heart. Now about that dream....

Southern Spain- Cordoba & Granada

We’ve been to Spain twice already and it’s peak time I share those experiences. First, of the most recent experience. (Although Mallorca is part of Spain, I view that trip differently; it was a ladies trip.)

When I had not been to Spain, ever (a Spain-virgin you can say), my dream was to move there, buy a bed and breakfast and live amongst the orange groves. After our first trip on a momentous birthday, I knew we would return. The second third time we went to Southern parts in October. I had read Autumn is a good time to go, as well as Spring, to avoid the crowds and the outrageous temperatures.

For this trip we planned to arrive in Malaga and drive to few of the cities nearby and return from Malaga. We drove couple hours and started our trip at Hotel Macia Alfaros Cordoba. It was cramped but our room was sufficient. Our room faced another white building so the view was disappointing but it was to be expected of a hotel in the heart of a city. It has a large breakfast room in the basement and a spacious lobby but otherwise small hallways and small quarters.

On the first night we ate dinner at the highly sought after Bodegas Mezquita. It was busy, as expected; there were locals as well as many tourists with their displayed guidebooks on the dining table. We ordered the pre-fixed tapas menu with 6 tapas chosen by the chef. Salmorejo, garlic and tomato soup, served cold was delicious and memorable. The bean soup with chorizo and Morcilla (blood sausage and both are Spanish) was good however over salted while the garlic covered potatoes were under salted. Eggplant fries were unique because they were light and crispy but unfortunately also under seasoned. The husband’s favorite dish from that night was Ratatouille, stewed vegetables from the late summer harvest and perfectly seasoned and hearty. I was surprised Cordoba serves Ratatouille, isn't it French? Overall the cost and the food were passable with some hits and few misses; if in Cordoba I suggest an authentic place for local food.

Cordoba is unique for one reason, the Cathedral. This Cathedral has enough history to spend a whole day and it is wonderful. It has Muslim influences from when the Moors were in Spain as well as Catholic touches. It was first a Mosque that was converted to Catholic church, back to Mosque and again to church. When the construction first started it was built to face Mecca for prayer. In the last Moorish acquisition it was expanded to hold 40,000 people. If you get to go, an audio guide or a tour guide is a must. The audio guide that comes with the tickets is sufficient.

After touring the Cathedral, we walked over to Casa Rubio for lunch. The server is Spanish (possibly?) and was born in Germany when his parents moved there before his birth. He moved to Spain 15- 20 years ago. He was helpful and it was nice he spoke German. He suggested Boquerones (fried anchovies) as one of our Tapas so we got it. He also recommended another seafood dish that we declined and instead we ordered Potatoes with spicy sauce (against our server’s warning) and Salmorejo. Rookie mistake. The Salmorejo was very good however the potatoes were terrible, as he had implied. But the most memorable plate was the fried anchovies and I am glad we went with his suggestion.

By the way, a trap at Casa Rubio (and many restaurants with outdoor seating, probably) if seated outside, there’s an extra service charge than to sit inside. We chose a table inside and interestingly enough the interior is charming and decorated with crafts from the region.

Jewish quarter in Cordoba is admired by the tourists and it is neat to walk around; 2 hours in the district is plenty of time. In addition to the cathedral and the Jewish quarter, we walked over the Roman Bridge, built in the 1st century.

Taberna Salinas is tucked away in a neighborhood that many tourists don’t venture to. The advantage for us was its close proximity to our hotel so we went for the last dinner in Cordoba. It is highly praised and understandably so, the restaurant was packed with locals and some tourists on a weeknight. Thankfully we were able to get a table without a reservation. One dish that’s recommended is Rabo de Toro (oxtail stew). We shared the stew, Salmorejo (do you sense a pattern?) and espinicas con garbanzos (spinach with chickpeas). The meat in the stew was falling off the bone and very flavorful. The spinach and chickpeas were also tasty; the ratio was more spinach and less chickpeas, unlike how I’ve made it in the past. Salmorejo was fine. The server suggested the day’s dessert and the husband ordered it for me because I have a sweet tooth. Sadly the dessert was average. The server was pleasant and attentive and Taberna Salinas served the best food in Cordoba.

We went for the hot bath before dinner one evening. According to history, these baths were a meeting place for the people (mostly Muslims) when they lived here, and a way to meet, chat, enjoy one another’s companies while also bathing. We were hoping to experience it like in Istanbul. This bath was different. It has 4 rooms; steam room, cold water room, hot water room and a room with swimming pool. The idea is to rotate amongst those 4 rooms for couple hours. The cold room is freezing and the hot water is scorching but that’s the point. And there are masseuses that give guests massages (must be scheduled ahead). Obviously to prevent people from staying there all day, groups are allowed in on set time bases and have to leave at a certain time. Our massages were schedule in the last time slot. Not only was our massage rushed but this experience compared to Istanbul was below average. It was filled with tourists and it didn’t have an hot bath (like they used to do it) charm. The same Hot Bath company owns locations in Granada and Seville; we say don’t bother wasting your money.

If you’re in the area, Cordoba deserves a stop for 1- 2 days. It is easy to see the entire city in a day but it would be a rushed day-trip.

In Granada our Bed & Breakfast, Los Rebites, was comfortable and spacious but away from downtown. Our room had a large bathroom as well as a balcony, overlooking the city of Granada. Although the B&B was satisfactory, the daily commute into the city was not.

Since we arrived late to Granada, we went to the local supermarket to stock up on olive oil, canned fish and cured meats. Iberico Jamon (ham) was pricy so we opted for Chorizo instead. After shopping we were completely lost in the city and couldn’t find a restaurant on my list so ended up back at the Bed & Breakfast.

We were back in the suburbs and it was late so our host recommended a restaurant on the next block. When we entered the restaurant was empty, a discouraging sign. However after a long day we chose to sit. The young server didn’t speak much English so we tried our best to get some recommendations. He suggested the daily special, lamb chops and we agreed to share a plate. For appetizer we ordered spinach croquettas which were binded with mashed potatoes, breaded and fried. In the croquettes the spinach had a hint of nutmeg, a memorable touch. For the first course we got potato ensalada (salad- typical to Andalucía), on the house; it was exceptional with garlicky and olive oil notes. Instead of lamb chops we got pork with french fries. We asked about the lamb and the server couldn’t explain the problem. Lost in translation. The pork was perfectly cooked and garlicky unfortunately it was swimming in olive oil and greasy. And the French fries were overkill with potato salad on the house as well as croquettas with potato binder; another vegetable would’ve been appreciated.

Granada is systematic and has a comprehensive public transportation system. From our bed and breakfast we took the bus into the city each day. The first full day we visited the neighborhood of Albayzín. It is an UNESCO site because it’s one of the oldest neighborhoods on a hill overlooking the valley and filled with white homes and has panoramic views of the Alhambra. The architecture reflects the Moorish culture with brightly colored tiles and balconies. When the Muslims were pushed out of other Andalucían cities, they settled in Granada (particularly Albayzín), the only city that wasn’t conquered, yet.

We went to La Ladrillo for lunch. This place had locals sitting on the patio. And they offered menu of the day, a welcome change from the tapas. For the first course, we each ordered Migas, fried bread crumbs with whole roasted garlic cloves topped with fried sardine. The flavors were distinct because of the fresh sardine and roasted garlic but the bread crumbs were not crispy. For main I ordered cerdo (pork pieces) and the husband ordered pork back. Both were garlicky and delectable. I love the Spaniards love of garlic. The husband’s pork was slightly overcooked in some parts, easy to do when it’s thin filets. For sides, we got fries, again. I don’t love the Spaniards’ love of French fries. For dessert I ordered flan and he got coffee. The flan was ordinary.

After visiting the Cathedral and walking around other parts of the city, we went back to our room to relax. Later we headed back to Albayzín to watch the sunset and see the Alhambra at dusk before walking to dinner. We were determined to find a Moroccan or North African restaurant due to the strong Muslim influence; we found Restaurante Arrayanes for dinner. I ordered a Chicken Tagine with preserved lemons and olives while the husband ordered lamb with vegetables. Both dishes were great, a tad under seasoned but still terrific.

On our way to the Alhambra the next morning, the husband wanted to get shwarma from Shwarma King before heading to the palace. It was below average and we both agreed expectations have to be low when buying food from a restaurant on the main road to a tourist sight/ the Alhambra.

Alhambra is a combined palace and fortress on a hill, with initial construction in 9th century. It was neglected until the Moors and the King revamped the palace in the 11th century. The visit to Alhambra requires advanced planning; visitors must book tickets online and are given a specific time for entrance. Due to high volume of visitors per day, the center is strict about entering on the scheduled time. Each time slot allows 4 hours per visit and many areas have an automated machine that scans ticket. Audio guides can be rented and we both recommend them. Following the ticket instructions, begin at the Nasrid Palace. There is a lot to see and learn in the palace and due to its magnificent size it’s easy to get lost in.

I will honestly say that Alhambra is worth a visit while the husband was shocked at the rave reviews from visitors. For someone that has seen Arabic influenced architecture in India & Turkey, to be precise, he was underwhelmed. For me, if there was an 8th wonder of the world, the Alhambra deserves that spot. It is impressive inside and out.

In one of the guidebooks, I had read about convents in Granada selling cookies. Of course I had to find one myself. While in Albayzín, we located one but unfortunately they were closed. The next day, before the Alhambra, we found Monasterio de Santa Catalina de Zafra with the help of a tourist office suggestion. They are conveniently located on the path to the Alhambra. Inside the instructions state to ring the bell and order from a list of 3-4 cookies. After waiting 3-4 minutes, a nun answered. Here’s the neat part. The nuns are behind a rotating carousel window (lazy susan with covered window) and customers can’t see them. She asked me what I wanted so I asked for Polvorones and Mantecados. She put 500 grams each and turned the wheel. After seeing them, I requested in my broken Spanish 250 grams of each. She took them back, repacked them in smaller bags and charged me 6 Euros. I put my money in the carousel and walked away with homemade Polvorones and Mantecados from the convent.

Polvorones and Mantecados are shortbread cookies made with fat, powdered sugar and sometimes contain almonds. Mantecados are made with lard. They are crumbly because it’s mostly butter or lard and nuts, great with coffee or tea. Word of warning, don’t buy these BEFORE the Alhambra tour because food can’t be left in lockers and you have to walk around for 4 hours with the cookies; it will yield crumbly cookies when you’re home. None the less I loved the idea of nuns selling their homemade food. And the cookies were rich and delightful.